Guys that overspend to build their bottom end
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Guys that overspend to build their bottom end
Ive seen this mistake repeat itself over and over on here.
guys will spend $10k to get a 383 motor built/installled to end up making 380 rwhp or something like that at best. They will them go around saying that its ‘all motor’ and ‘no power adder’
I mean they will spend $800 on a radiator. $1000 on an intake.
i have long championed you should spend more on your top end vs. bottom end.
A user on here took a very novel approach. A $200 bottom end with a forced induction top end making > 500 rwhp. While I wish dearly it was SBC (it was a 4.8 iron lsx truck motor), this approach is a super interesting concept.
Those bottom ends are known to be stout. But if you make a mistake And it blows up, oh well, you buy another one for a couple hundred bucks
guys will spend $10k to get a 383 motor built/installled to end up making 380 rwhp or something like that at best. They will them go around saying that its ‘all motor’ and ‘no power adder’
I mean they will spend $800 on a radiator. $1000 on an intake.
i have long championed you should spend more on your top end vs. bottom end.
A user on here took a very novel approach. A $200 bottom end with a forced induction top end making > 500 rwhp. While I wish dearly it was SBC (it was a 4.8 iron lsx truck motor), this approach is a super interesting concept.
Those bottom ends are known to be stout. But if you make a mistake And it blows up, oh well, you buy another one for a couple hundred bucks
Last edited by dizwiz24; 07-01-2019 at 10:25 PM.
#2
Pro
Depends on the engine. Try that approach with a big block of just about any make and it gets very expensive very fast. I'd rather overbuild the bottom end and know it's going to stay together. I can always upgrade the top end later. A great top end on a sketchy bottom risks scattering the whole thing and starting over. Would you put a weak foundation under a new house you were building? I've read that iron LS engine bottom ends will hold 2000hp. That's great but not something you would try with anything else.
Last edited by Polo Vert; 07-01-2019 at 11:50 PM.
#3
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
$99.00 for a short block from PICK 'N PULL. Hard to beat.
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dizwiz24 (07-02-2019)
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Another example is a guy i met at the dragstrip.
he has a dodge omni charger than runs 13’s on the stock 4 banger bottom end. Ive seen him beat stock c5’s. The car looks stock. Its a sleeper
boost is turned way up.
he says every once in awhile he will break a ring land/crack a piston.
He says its no problem - it will still drive like that and he drives it home / spends 2-3 hours replacing the damaged piston and he’s back in action
he has a dodge omni charger than runs 13’s on the stock 4 banger bottom end. Ive seen him beat stock c5’s. The car looks stock. Its a sleeper
boost is turned way up.
he says every once in awhile he will break a ring land/crack a piston.
He says its no problem - it will still drive like that and he drives it home / spends 2-3 hours replacing the damaged piston and he’s back in action
#6
Burning Brakes
Ring lands crack from excess heat, not power.
The key to getting stock engines to survive with boost is to run extremely low timing and do everything you can to prevent heat.
I'd be willing to bet a stock L98 with a $160 ebay GT45 and less than $1000 total in oiling, hotside/coldside would do 500 at the wheels indefinitely.
The key to getting stock engines to survive with boost is to run extremely low timing and do everything you can to prevent heat.
I'd be willing to bet a stock L98 with a $160 ebay GT45 and less than $1000 total in oiling, hotside/coldside would do 500 at the wheels indefinitely.
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dizwiz24 (07-02-2019)
#7
Race Director
A lot depends on what the car is being used for. A marginal bottom end can survive an occasional strip run or dyno pull and survive on the street. If a car is going to see hundreds of runs during a season, the motor needs to be stout.
#8
I agree, and the average guy paying those prices for a 383 probably barely gets on it too much. I say it over and over that most here have them because they are a Corvette.
#9
Le Mans Master
Building a strong bottom end usually allow increased durability. Forged metal bends and flexes, cast breaks. It does depend on intent and driver.
For those who believe in run it till it blows, and get another one it's a no win argument. 4-7k short block vs 100-300 junkyard specials....that's alot of junkyard short blocks. The day it kicks a rod breaks the cam, and a piston bends a valve ruining a high dollar head. Then maybe.
The get a junkyard ls + turbo with lots of boost = racer; has become a popular theme for grudge and bracket racers. Just pick a roller that easy to change engines, because you will.
For those who believe in run it till it blows, and get another one it's a no win argument. 4-7k short block vs 100-300 junkyard specials....that's alot of junkyard short blocks. The day it kicks a rod breaks the cam, and a piston bends a valve ruining a high dollar head. Then maybe.
The get a junkyard ls + turbo with lots of boost = racer; has become a popular theme for grudge and bracket racers. Just pick a roller that easy to change engines, because you will.
Last edited by Kevova; 07-02-2019 at 04:21 PM.
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dizwiz24 (07-02-2019)
#10
Race Director
Building a strong bottom end usually allow increased durability. Forged metal bends and flexes, cast breaks. It does depend on intent and driver.
For those who believe in run it till it blows, and get another one it's a no win argument. 4-7k short block vs 100-300 junkyard specials....that's alot of junkyard short blocks. The day it kicks a rod breaks the the cam and a piston bends a valve ruining a high dollar head. Then maybe.
The get a junkyard ls + turbo with lots of boost = racer; has become a popular theme for grudge and bracket racers. Just pick a roller that easy to change engines, because you will.
For those who believe in run it till it blows, and get another one it's a no win argument. 4-7k short block vs 100-300 junkyard specials....that's alot of junkyard short blocks. The day it kicks a rod breaks the the cam and a piston bends a valve ruining a high dollar head. Then maybe.
The get a junkyard ls + turbo with lots of boost = racer; has become a popular theme for grudge and bracket racers. Just pick a roller that easy to change engines, because you will.
#11
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Run it up over 6k and it won't last too long, I don't think.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 07-02-2019 at 11:49 AM.
#12
Burning Brakes
For those who believe in run it till it blows, and get another one it's a no win argument. 4-7k short block vs 100-300 junkyard specials....that's alot of junkyard short blocks. The day it kicks a rod breaks the the cam and a piston bends a valve ruining a high dollar head. Then maybe.
It'll live MUCH longer than anyone gives it credit.
Last edited by JoeNova; 07-02-2019 at 11:59 AM.
#13
Team Owner
If you are trying to save a few bucks for a "claimer" race, sure. If not, what exactly is the point of the exercise? To save a few bucks here so I can spend more of my time doing an R&R of the motor? Wouldn't time be better spent on doing it once and doing it right? Assuming that the bottom end simply gives and does it quietly without destroying anything else, that is.
#15
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
#16
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Ive cheaped out on bottom ends....and have to worry every time that tach swings, not worth it.
Dont be fooled on the big power ls stuff, they arent slapping it together without having lots of issues and the eventual failure.
Stock/cheap bottom ends have their place but if ones chasing power/rpm its only a matter of time before it lets loose and takes out that nice head. At that point what money is saved??
Dont be fooled on the big power ls stuff, they arent slapping it together without having lots of issues and the eventual failure.
Stock/cheap bottom ends have their place but if ones chasing power/rpm its only a matter of time before it lets loose and takes out that nice head. At that point what money is saved??
Last edited by cv67; 07-02-2019 at 05:10 PM.
#18
Race Director
#19
Race Director
You want cheap fun? Buy an R53 stick shift Mini Cooper S. Fast? No. Fun? Incredibly.
#20
Team Owner
If you are looking to spend big bucks on the upper end and cheap out on the lower end, it is "small money" ONLY IF the bottom end doesn't do something bad to the upper end and your time isn't worth much when you R&R it again and again like suggested when it breaks. Like I said, if you are building a "claimer" car, sure. Spending more on the upper end and a junkyard bottom end doesn't sound like much fun when it breaks. Sure, everything breaks but cheap stuff is more likely to break than well built stuff.