tarheel1

To start with, my ctsy/clk fuse burned out and when I put in a new fuse, the horns blew constantly. I put in new horns (which are much louder now)and my ctsy/clk fuse was fine so I went inside for dinner. I came back out and started the car for a few minutes to cool it off and the ctsy/clk fuse blew again. :cuss Please Help!?

don hall

The components protected by that 15A fuse include: center info cluster, under hood lamps, horn relay, courtesy lamps, map lamps-door, power door locks, radio clock, key warning and headlight chime, dome lamp timer, spare tire illum., power antenna, cargo lams, lighter, console storage compartment, vanity mirror light...........any one of these components could be the source of your problem. Since your horn was "sounding" without your permission, I would focus on that circuit.

hz900

You are probably about to have a nightmare trying to track down the problem. I had the same problem but what was not previously listed is my emissions stuff was also on that circuit.

It took me forever to figure it out because it would only blow when I started the car. Finally I looked at the wires going to the smog crap on the front of the motor and saw that one was rubbed bare and touching a pully, hence when I started the car it would make contact and blow the fuse. Taped it up and pulled it back and was good to go.

I know it is a long shot but this is what happenned to me, couldn't hurt to check.

Tourney3p0

Have you done anything with the radio recently?

tarheel1

Well, I have more electrical problems. I drove my car a few miles and when I turned my lights on, the right turn signal indicator on my dash was lit up constantly. Usually this indicates a blown bulb, right? I tested the right hand turn signal and there was no change(right turn signal indicator light on the dash was still lit up constantly) although the cornering lamp turned on. I also noticed that the brightness of my dash lights(all of them) was fluctuating wildly with the voltage reading about 12.5V. I usually get 13.4-13.8V with it in park. :mad :confused:

By the way, I have put in an aftermarket radio about 3 years ago with new speakers. I have had no problems with it. I put in a speaker box that houses two 12" subs along with an amp and am using the hatch latch bolt as a grounding point for these. I installed the subs about 7 months ago. I also have put in the auxiliary grounding cables, per forum's suggestion.

Should I disconnect each component running through that fuse, starting with the radio, to see if the fuse pops or not? Will that isolate the bad wiring/components?

Thanks guys :)

hz900

If it was running fine up until now I would start at the alternator, have it tested and the battery while you are at it. Most auto parts stores will do it for free these days.

I still think you have a short somewhere though for the fuse to be blowing. That may have caused enough of a drain to fry your alternator.