So I looked at the 95 Vert tonight and....
#21
Race Director
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Originally Posted by JasonL
The reverse issue is normal, as is the e-brake thing.
Walk.
PS the '96 auto for $16.5K sounds interesting.
Larry
#22
Team Owner
Originally Posted by JasonL
The reverse issue is normal, as is the e-brake thing.
About 1 out of every 20 times, the shifter will only go halfway into reverse; I'm pretty sure it's just gear clash of some sort. Simply hold the shifter back while you slowly let the clutch out, and it will fully pop into gear.
The more you look at C4s the more you learn though, so I'm sure the inspection wasn't a total loss.
About 1 out of every 20 times, the shifter will only go halfway into reverse; I'm pretty sure it's just gear clash of some sort. Simply hold the shifter back while you slowly let the clutch out, and it will fully pop into gear.
The more you look at C4s the more you learn though, so I'm sure the inspection wasn't a total loss.
#23
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Location: Springfield Ohio
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My 90 6 speed always goes into reverse, but sometimes it gives a little more resisitance than others. I always thought it was me being too lazy on the clutch.
Bless you that mentioned the proper use of the e-brake. Unfolding my 6'3" frame out of the car has been a challenge enough (tender left knee), let alone trying to negotiate that darn brake lever. Had the cuff of my pants catch it one day,,,about did a face plant in the the parking lot.
Bless you that mentioned the proper use of the e-brake. Unfolding my 6'3" frame out of the car has been a challenge enough (tender left knee), let alone trying to negotiate that darn brake lever. Had the cuff of my pants catch it one day,,,about did a face plant in the the parking lot.
#24
Team Owner
Originally Posted by JasonL
The reverse issue is normal, as is the e-brake thing.
About 1 out of every 20 times, the shifter will only go halfway into reverse; I'm pretty sure it's just gear clash of some sort. Simply hold the shifter back while you slowly let the clutch out, and it will fully pop into gear.
The more you look at C4s the more you learn though, so I'm sure the inspection wasn't a total loss.
About 1 out of every 20 times, the shifter will only go halfway into reverse; I'm pretty sure it's just gear clash of some sort. Simply hold the shifter back while you slowly let the clutch out, and it will fully pop into gear.
The more you look at C4s the more you learn though, so I'm sure the inspection wasn't a total loss.
A Common Problem with - the clutch hydraulic slave (actuator) cylinder is that they are susceptible to developing a hang up spot between the seal and the bore at the fully extended end of the cylinder's travel range. This seal-hang-up condition normally develops when moisture is present in the hydraulic system and the vehicle is not in use for several days and/or weeks at a time. This hang up spot is usually caused by oxidation and/or contaminant build up causing a segment of the bore to have a higher seal to bore surface tension than the rest. It usually forms at the fully extended seal-to-bore contact point. The hydraulic clutch system is a relatively low pressure system and does not exert enough barrel pressure to free the slave cylinder wall of this type of build up after it has developed. The problem with this condition is that the clutch hydraulic system will bleed out normally but still have a hang up spot present. This condition creates a problematic operational situation in the system where even a full clutch pedal depression will not allow complete disengagement of the clutch for more than just a brief instance when the pedal is depressed and held to the floor. The initial hydraulic fluid surge within the slave cylinder presses the actuation rod far enough for complete disengagement only to spring back slightly when pedal movement is halted in the fully depressed state. The spring back is caused by flex in the slave cylinder seal getting hung up and stretching a bit further only to return to its normal shape when surge pressure subsides. This condition will mislead most technicians into believing that the clutch hydraulic system is operating at an acceptable level. Under these conditions, exactly timed quick shifts will occur fairly smoothly because the brief instance that the slave cylinder bore seal stretches is the same instant that the shift occurs. When the shift sequence is slowed down, the spring back of the slave cylinder occurs before the shift lever actuation causing a not-so-smooth gear engagement event. This causes the synchronizer to work much harder than necessary and is exposes the synchronizers and dogteeth to potential damage especially during higher RPM shifting.
The best way to verify the presents of a " hang up" condition in the hydraulic clutch system is to have the vehicle at running temperature, coast down to a full stop until completely stationary and in neutral with the clutch pedal all the way up. Wait for a few seconds then depress the clutch pedal completely to the floor then wait for another 2 seconds before shifting from neutral to either 1st or reverse gear. If there is any resistance at all when actuating the shift lever into either gear from this state, it is likely that some degree of seal hang up is present. Hydraulic clutch systems that have this type of problem can cause the synchronizers to wear much more quickly. A healthy clutch hydraulic system should provide silk-smooth gear engagement during this type of test.
This site also recommends using hydraulic clutch fluid (GM P/N 12345347) because it has friction modifiers in it.
#25
Team Owner
I will remind you once more that I have a 96 Coupe A4 that you will have a have a hard time faulting. It is still for sale; so if you are serious about buying a good Corvette, give me a call or an email. It will get a fresh oil change and filter this week and will only require fuel for your enjoyment.
#26
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Thank you 1Patriot. All of a sudden it seems like I have some possible deals cooking in my area, but won't really know more until the end of the weekend. I will shoot you a PM here.