Question on a car fax report, and opions on a potential 95.
11-11-2004, 01:56 PM
#1
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Question on a car fax report, and opinions on a potential 95.
Hello again everyone.
Well I have another viewing scheduled on a car tonight, but have a question on the Carfax report and what the seller has told me.
Carfax came back with only 1 entry, and that was the registration/etc in 95, and states 1 owner. When I talked to the seller he told me he is the second owner but bought it in 95.
Details on tonights viewing are as follows:
1995 CHEVROLET CORVETTE, loaded, 32k miles, black obn black lthr, 2 tops, bra, 56 way seats, bose stereo, original price price 39k, asking $15,200 obo
The person I talked to told me up front that the tires are in real bad shape. Bit old, splitting, etc. He is willing to talk about the price given the state of the tires.
It sounds like it has most if not all of what I am looking for, however I just about passed on it over the tire issues. However seeing I am not far from the guy figured it could not hurt to check it out. Never know....
Well I have another viewing scheduled on a car tonight, but have a question on the Carfax report and what the seller has told me.
Carfax came back with only 1 entry, and that was the registration/etc in 95, and states 1 owner. When I talked to the seller he told me he is the second owner but bought it in 95.
Details on tonights viewing are as follows:
1995 CHEVROLET CORVETTE, loaded, 32k miles, black obn black lthr, 2 tops, bra, 56 way seats, bose stereo, original price price 39k, asking $15,200 obo
The person I talked to told me up front that the tires are in real bad shape. Bit old, splitting, etc. He is willing to talk about the price given the state of the tires.
It sounds like it has most if not all of what I am looking for, however I just about passed on it over the tire issues. However seeing I am not far from the guy figured it could not hurt to check it out. Never know....
Last edited by Larzus; 11-11-2004 at 02:16 PM.
11-11-2004, 02:29 PM
#2
Team Owner
tires are trivial, and bad tires will tell you the condition of the alignment and the chassis - ie, has it been hit.
A new set of Kumho 712s are about 400.00, so don't worry much. Kumho MX's are about 600.00 - either way, nice tire for the $$.
I have MX's and they are nice...
A new set of Kumho 712s are about 400.00, so don't worry much. Kumho MX's are about 600.00 - either way, nice tire for the $$.
I have MX's and they are nice...
11-11-2004, 03:07 PM
#3
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Car Fax
Do not depend on what Car Fax has to say. If you look at the registration information you can see that the number of estimated owners by car fax is often wrong. I almost did not go and look at the 93 I bought because of car fax information on the mileage that the owner proved to me was wrong with the complete maintance records from when the Corvette was new. Mistake made by DMV. Use the bad tires to get a good price. 
11-11-2004, 03:12 PM
#4
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Carfax never counts the first owner.
The first page will state number of estimated owners.
I deal with Vette sales, so I run a lot of Carfaxes, and the ones I know the exact history on Carfax is always short one owner.
Also don't put too much trust in the accuracy of Carfaxes accident history.
The first page will state number of estimated owners.
I deal with Vette sales, so I run a lot of Carfaxes, and the ones I know the exact history on Carfax is always short one owner.
Also don't put too much trust in the accuracy of Carfaxes accident history.
11-11-2004, 03:13 PM
#5
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Don't discount a car because of bad tires... unless it has evidence of abuse. With 30+k on the clock, if the tires are original... it is normal wear. Is it a manual or auto?
11-11-2004, 03:18 PM
#6
Team Owner
Use the bad tires to estimate how well the car was taken care of. If they are original tires, it was probably driven well to moderately. Ask for receipts.
BTW: You also got a inquiry on the other thread, someone has a 'vette for sale.
BTW: You also got a inquiry on the other thread, someone has a 'vette for sale.
11-11-2004, 07:08 PM
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Passing on a car that "has most if not all of what I am looking for" because of tire issues that the seller is willing to discuss?
I don't mean to throw flames, but my god, lighten up. The perfect car is like the perfect woman, (or man). They don't exist.
I don't mean to throw flames, but my god, lighten up. The perfect car is like the perfect woman, (or man). They don't exist.
11-11-2004, 08:36 PM
#9
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Bsimard, I think I may have not explained things right. When I say I just about passed it up, I mean what redvtt stated. That is, if the tires were allowed to rot does that mean the car has sat for extended amount of times? Are the hoses rotting as well? Weatherstripping? Seals? These are the things that ran through my mind when I heard about the tires.
As I stated though I intend to go view the car. It would be silly of me not to at least look at it just because of tire rot. The seller was a likeable guy on the phone. No pressure and polite. Sadly due to my insane work schedule I was unable to make it out to him today, but will for sure this weekend.
As I stated though I intend to go view the car. It would be silly of me not to at least look at it just because of tire rot. The seller was a likeable guy on the phone. No pressure and polite. Sadly due to my insane work schedule I was unable to make it out to him today, but will for sure this weekend.
11-11-2004, 10:16 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
if they are the original tires they will be shot.not from use but from age.my 92 had 32k on it when i bought it 3 yrs ago and the tires were cracked and hard as a rock.you could burn em off and it made no smoke or squeel.
spent 700 bucks and had some good ones put on.
btw i paid 15k for the 92.that 95 at 15k range sounds great to me.and hes willing to work with you on the tire cost?
i think youve probly found your car,shoot for 14.5 and get ready to grin
32k is just barely broken in.cars 10 yrs old now so expect a little rubber parts blemishing,weatherstrip etc but hey,better than worn everything else on the car from higher miles!
spent 700 bucks and had some good ones put on.
btw i paid 15k for the 92.that 95 at 15k range sounds great to me.and hes willing to work with you on the tire cost?
i think youve probly found your car,shoot for 14.5 and get ready to grin
32k is just barely broken in.cars 10 yrs old now so expect a little rubber parts blemishing,weatherstrip etc but hey,better than worn everything else on the car from higher miles!
11-11-2004, 10:30 PM
#11
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Carfax does not mean much to me. I totaled my 87, bought it from Allstate and rebuilt it in April 2003. Tobijohn ran Carfax for me about 2 weeks ago. Came in clean as a whistle. 
11-11-2004, 10:55 PM
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Definitely worth looking at this car... If it looks clean, get no less than 1k off the asking price and get yourself a set of nice, new tires. Or, buy some Kumhos or Sumitomos and put some money back into your pocket for your first mod!
11-12-2004, 10:32 AM
#13
Racer
car fax
As a new car dealer that has been burned by car fax, please use it only as a guide, not gospel. it only guarentees nothing if you read the disclaimer. Many states do not require odos to be read, accidents to be reported, flood damage, or fire damage to be reported. car fax is good at making money and falsley relieving peoples fears about buying a used car. Having said that, it is the only real tool around other than finding a competent bodyman, and tech to completley go over the car and pull info out of the computers. I would put more weight in those options, and pay to get it checked that way 1st. We had a car fax certified car here, that upon futher inspection, it had frame damage. When we contacted car fax as to why, the said read the disclaimer!!!! And we pay for there service!!!!! Not anymore!!!
11-12-2004, 01:48 PM
#14
Team Owner
mphy98 brought up a good point, something I forgot: frame damage.
If you're willing to, take it to a competent body & frame shop. Have them check the frame, should cost about $60.
A Car-O-Liner is best for this. It has a PC with software programmed for the year/model of car frame that's periodically upgraded. The body man scans the chassis of the car by running an arm up & down a ladder to various test points. If something is out of alignment it beeps, the frame is in need of straightening. This damage could come from curb & island jumping, etc. and it wouldn't show up in body damage.
There are other systems, but I really like the way this one works for this type of a service check. Most car dealers in our area are doing this along with the Carfax report, to ensure no trash slips by.
By the way, if you do see a car that was wrecked &/or repainted & is really clean (you know, the wife loves the color
- that's the only one - I got a buyer like that once 
), I would make it a requirement the frame is checked. Make sure you know of a very good shop & might want to make previous arrangements. IT could save you lots of grief in the long haul.
Remember to look for overspray, sloppy & incorrect taping leaves paint(you see paint where it shouldn't be).
The car with the bad tires - my hunch is it hasn't had this type of damage because the tires are all the same condition. If something had creamed the rims, you'd see that type of damage as well. Look for gravel marks on the rim edges.
As mphy98 pointed out, anyone can get burned! The bst you can do is examine the car yourself at first, as you are doing. Then, take it to a Competent Shop for computer & body work checks. Don't go with what the owner tells you. If he said he replaced all the brakes, you have it checked, you find out he did it a year ago (or not at all),
walk away. There's more hiding somewhere. Buyer Beware!! In fact I'd stick with a car that has appropriate documentation, either from a dealer/shop or a history of receipts. 2 of my Vettes had them, they were good cars.
If you're willing to, take it to a competent body & frame shop. Have them check the frame, should cost about $60.
A Car-O-Liner is best for this. It has a PC with software programmed for the year/model of car frame that's periodically upgraded. The body man scans the chassis of the car by running an arm up & down a ladder to various test points. If something is out of alignment it beeps, the frame is in need of straightening. This damage could come from curb & island jumping, etc. and it wouldn't show up in body damage.
There are other systems, but I really like the way this one works for this type of a service check. Most car dealers in our area are doing this along with the Carfax report, to ensure no trash slips by.
By the way, if you do see a car that was wrecked &/or repainted & is really clean (you know, the wife loves the color
- that's the only one - I got a buyer like that once ), I would make it a requirement the frame is checked. Make sure you know of a very good shop & might want to make previous arrangements. IT could save you lots of grief in the long haul.Remember to look for overspray, sloppy & incorrect taping leaves paint(you see paint where it shouldn't be).
The car with the bad tires - my hunch is it hasn't had this type of damage because the tires are all the same condition. If something had creamed the rims, you'd see that type of damage as well. Look for gravel marks on the rim edges.
As mphy98 pointed out, anyone can get burned! The bst you can do is examine the car yourself at first, as you are doing. Then, take it to a Competent Shop for computer & body work checks. Don't go with what the owner tells you. If he said he replaced all the brakes, you have it checked, you find out he did it a year ago (or not at all),
walk away. There's more hiding somewhere. Buyer Beware!! In fact I'd stick with a car that has appropriate documentation, either from a dealer/shop or a history of receipts. 2 of my Vettes had them, they were good cars.
11-12-2004, 04:07 PM
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Thanks again everyone. Let me say that you all and this site has been a tremendous help for me in this search.
When I started looking around, I had a few basic questions I would ask. Now, thanks in a big part to you all, I take a folder out with me for each viewing (have one here for each car I have viewed). I call it my checkout kit and it contains printouts of questions to ask, checklists, RPO code lists, copies of specific feedback from forum members, and a few other things. I start the process with the seller by asking just a few basic questions (record keeping, fuel type and oil used, etc.) and if that goes well I start going over the car and asking all the questions.
My wife thinks I am nuts. A loon! Why I even had one seller tell me, when seeing the folder and notepad in hand, "Boy your gonna grill me aren't you?".
So again, thank you everyone! I really feel like I am informed buyer when I go out to look at these cars.
When I started looking around, I had a few basic questions I would ask. Now, thanks in a big part to you all, I take a folder out with me for each viewing (have one here for each car I have viewed). I call it my checkout kit and it contains printouts of questions to ask, checklists, RPO code lists, copies of specific feedback from forum members, and a few other things. I start the process with the seller by asking just a few basic questions (record keeping, fuel type and oil used, etc.) and if that goes well I start going over the car and asking all the questions.
My wife thinks I am nuts. A loon! Why I even had one seller tell me, when seeing the folder and notepad in hand, "Boy your gonna grill me aren't you?".
So again, thank you everyone! I really feel like I am informed buyer when I go out to look at these cars.
11-12-2004, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by redvtt
That would be the start of a good thread: "Does your wife understand?" 
Sure, she was the one who suggested I go buy one. Really smooth move on her part... She now has a new living room set and kitchen floors coming in on Monday
Ouch my achin wallet!
11-12-2004, 07:08 PM
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Ultra-violet radiation destroys the tires. Tire companies put black carbon into the manufacture of the rubber to make it black and lessen the effects of UV. This is also why you will see folks caution people about putting tire dressing on the tires. Some contain silicones which negates the protection of the black carbon. Without black carbon the tires would probably last 6 months at best.
If those are the original tires, UV probably caused the rot/damage your seeing. Getting 25K of normal use on ultra high performance tires is good. 30K is stretching your dollars.
I would suggest looking at a new set of Goodyear Eagle F1-GS-D3s. They will run you just under $800. (Discount Tire is a good source for them)
If those tires are the originals then you can get a very good idea of how the suspension system if functioning. If they are showing normal and consistent wear that tells you a lot.
If you decide on this vehicle and you obtain new tires, take it to your local Chevy dealer for the alignment. They know the vehicle.
If you can get the vehicle up on a lift and do a thorough inspection of the underside making sure there are no telltale signs of problems.
You might make a short list of things you see wrong, check the prices for repairs/replacement and weight them out. Once you buy it its yours. Things are going to break or reach their service life and they will need replacing. That you can count on. Any vehicle you put on the road will have problems through out its life. You just deal with them an move on. If your happy with it and its what you want, make the decision and don't look back. Enjoy it, drive it and enjoy it some more.
If those are the original tires, UV probably caused the rot/damage your seeing. Getting 25K of normal use on ultra high performance tires is good. 30K is stretching your dollars.
I would suggest looking at a new set of Goodyear Eagle F1-GS-D3s. They will run you just under $800. (Discount Tire is a good source for them)
If those tires are the originals then you can get a very good idea of how the suspension system if functioning. If they are showing normal and consistent wear that tells you a lot.
If you decide on this vehicle and you obtain new tires, take it to your local Chevy dealer for the alignment. They know the vehicle.
If you can get the vehicle up on a lift and do a thorough inspection of the underside making sure there are no telltale signs of problems.
You might make a short list of things you see wrong, check the prices for repairs/replacement and weight them out. Once you buy it its yours. Things are going to break or reach their service life and they will need replacing. That you can count on. Any vehicle you put on the road will have problems through out its life. You just deal with them an move on. If your happy with it and its what you want, make the decision and don't look back. Enjoy it, drive it and enjoy it some more.