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You might want to take a peak at the "batwing" to make sure it is not broken. Mine was not sitting level for about a year after I got it, didn't think much of it until I removed my spare tire carrier. Much to my suprise the batwing was busted! The scary part is there was no obvious indicator, other than a slight height difference (no noises, etc).
You might want to take a peak at the "batwing" to make sure it is not broken. Mine was not sitting level for about a year after I got it, didn't think much of it until I removed my spare tire carrier. Much to my suprise the batwing was busted! The scary part is there was no obvious indicator, other than a slight height difference (no noises, etc).
No, the spring's okay. I even removed it and switched it side to side, but no difference in the ride height of the rear.
If I remember correctly, when Gordon Killebrew was asked about this common problem he only smiled.
Perhaps you could try adjusting the long bolts in the rear is it isn't a whole lot of difference.
Even with coil overs I see the same thing, i.e one spring is adjusted different from the other.
One thing I did find in the front was that if you jack up one side the sway bar will affect things... I couldn't figure out why the passenger side height was different, when I made my adjustments I had to be sure both sides were off the ground...
I realize you do not have coiul overs, but the concept should be the same...
You could get a set of the rear lowering bolts and drop the high side so they are even in the rear. That may not completely level the front but will help.
For the longest now, I've been running the car with the passenger side rear spring nut dropped down lower than the driver's side. This leveled the car at the rear.
Recently someone posted that working with the front spring height will effect the rear level and I wanted to give that a try.
Jacking around with the springs does effect their performance and the car's handling. I want to see which method is the best compromise - lowering the nut on one of the rear spring bolts OR putting a spacer under one of the front springs.
Before you start messing with the springs, measure from a fixed point on the CHASSIS to the ground, not the body. G. Killebrew alluded to a large tolerance during manufacture for the body when I asked him about this. I was concerned because the drivers rear is about 1/2" lower when measured from the center of the wheel well to the ground. When I measured from a fixed point on the frame, both sides were even. The difference was in the body mounting.
if you care about corner weights, then corner heights are irrelevant. on just every car i have ever owned, with equal spring preload, the corner heights were funky.
also, if your front heights are equal, but not the back, then that's already telling you the problem isn't spring preload. (if it were then the chassis apparently has little torsional rigidity.)
Jake, careful with that bolt you lowered the nut on.
Someone here (Central Coaster maybe??) busted his
bolt on a corner because he had the nut way low on
the spring bolt.. I'm sure you are aware, just thought
I'd put it out there.. As for your original inquiry, cant
help.. Good luck..
if you care about corner weights, then corner heights are irrelevant. on just every car i have ever owned, with equal spring preload, the corner heights were funky.
also, if your front heights are equal, but not the back, then that's already telling you the problem isn't spring preload. (if it were then the chassis apparently has little torsional rigidity.)
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