C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

D**n Optispark...

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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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Default D**n Optispark...

...Left me stranded, thank goodness for AAA and flatbeds...

She was real running rough at idle when warm for about a week now... I was thinking IAC...

Hooked up my trusty datamaster and got the dreaded code 16 lo-res...

So.

New Opti will be here tomorrow, gonna try to get ahold of waterpump gaskets and waterpump bolts...

I can't remember if there is anything else, can you folks think of anything?

Thanks
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 03:37 PM
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Not sure if you meant to say, but while you're in there, replace the waterpump itself, and too, may as well put new plug wires in. You'll need a special tool for the rotor - it's similar to a torx, but is not. It's the same tool used to take Game-boy apart, although several on the forum used pliers/vice-grips. Mark the damper when you remove it. It's supposed to have an arrow to line up and be put back like it came off. Mine did not and was not, and has not given me any trouble, but forwarned is forarmed. 12-pack of your favorite beer, and a bucket of 4-letter words. Good luck.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBeast
while you're in there, replace the waterpump itself
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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[QUOTE=TankerVette
Hooked up my trusty datamaster and got the dreaded code 16 lo-res...

gonna try to get ahold of waterpump gaskets and waterpump bolts...
[/QUOTE]

So, the low side went south... good thing you’re not running one of those fancy 8 coil systems.


I understand the new gaskets, but why new bolts?

Last edited by C4Crazy787; Mar 9, 2005 at 04:10 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 06:13 PM
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C4Crazy787: when i did the heads and had the waterpump off, there was substantial corrosion on the midsection of the bolts. seemed to have wasted about 1/3 of the diameter... didn't replace them at the time because i didn't have transport to get new ones... as a matter of fact, i would suggest that anyone who is pulling the waterpump may want to consider having the bolts on hand...

SilverBeast: waterpump is relatively new, only about 20,000 miles... want to save up for a mezere pump (buying the new opti pushes it back a bit, though...)



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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 12:28 AM
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update: got towed home, she started for a bit then died, about 20 minutes... another code 16...

folks, is there anything else this can be? why would she start if with this code? wet wire?

help! don't want to put a $300 opti in and find out that this isn't the problem...

thanks, folks
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 01:14 AM
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Dunno about the code, my opti went with no code but i know you do not have to replace the whole thing, it can be overhauled, i did mine 3wks ago for about $130 and you don't need a special tool for it, just take out one of the screws from the throttle body plate, put it gently in a drill, screwdriver and use the head of the screw to take out the opti screws
good luck!
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TankerVette
update: got towed home, she started for a bit then died, about 20 minutes... another code 16...

folks, is there anything else this can be? why would she start if with this code? wet wire?

help! don't want to put a $300 opti in and find out that this isn't the problem...

thanks, folks
Be happy you don't have generation I.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TankerVette
update: got towed home, she started for a bit then died, about 20 minutes... another code 16...

folks, is there anything else this can be? why would she start if with this code? wet wire?

help! don't want to put a $300 opti in and find out that this isn't the problem...

thanks, folks
Follow the trouble shooting guide and check all the connections as shown in your CSM for code 16.
I believe if you get an opti code 99% of the time it's your opti, some go bad without setting a code.

Last edited by C4Crazy787; Mar 10, 2005 at 09:33 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2005 | 06:29 PM
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Well, did the replacement and it worked... took about 5.5 hours all told.

Hoping not to have to do it again for another 85000 miles...
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 02:54 PM
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The only other thing to could be is a bad electrical connection to the low-res output of the opti, or a bad ecm input or wire. What is odd is that it runs at all. I had a code 16 last summer, and believe me...it was DEAD. Tried many times to start, no good. There is a wordy procedure to test the circuit, there is an optispark connector on the opti, natch, but also under the injector plastic cover on the right side there is a connector about midway that is also for the opti, I guess for testing.

-G
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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...good point on the wiring...

did continuity checks on all the wiring to from opti to ecm prior to ripping into it... it all showed okay...

would recommend anyone with this problem to do this...

its pretty easy and i would have vomited blood if after changing the opti it turned out to be a broken wire...
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