What temp is the OEM thermostat set at for a '86 L98? I live in Florida and I've been thinking of going to a 160 Deg. stat because of the heat down here. My car in traffic runs around 230+ Deg and the car starts running like crap. I think a 160 down here will work perfect for me BUT I have seen some people in here talk about switching the fan on sooner? Should I do this also and how do I switch the fan? I also think I might do the coolant bypass. This car is running WAY to hot here. Please give me your opinions and suggestions. I know this subject has been beat to death with people in colder climates but I can't find any responces from Florida. Thank you in advance.

 

I believe the OEM was 190 degree thermostat.I think you meant your car was running at 230 in traffic.That's not real bad-but I like mine running cooler. In my 87 I run a 180 thermostat.Personally I'm really opposed to the 160 stat-and although some guys run them it's really a controversial subject.Alot has been written about consequences. BUT,if you're sure the area between the radiator and condensor is clean of debris, and your fan(s) are coming on at about 225 for main and 235 for aux.Those are approx. numbers.I would suggest you go with a 180 and lower temp fan(s) switch. Available from Mid America-just make sure you get the right one. My fans come on at 200 and off at 185.My vette now never gets over 209 in 80's stop and go. I love it.

65Z01 has a tech tip on the fans using Radio Shack components-cost about $10.Very good write up-and both his way and the way I did mine allow both fans to come on together-without any reprogramming of the ECM.

 

I agree with the lower fan temps, if everything else is in order. I MUST restate, that lower temp thermostat won't affect how hot your engine can run, only how cool it can run. Especially with a C4, a lower temp stat will NOT make it run cooler.

RACE ON!!!

 

I agree with the lower fan temps, if everything else is in order. I MUST restate, that lower temp thermostat won't affect how hot your engine can run, only how cool it can run. Especially with a C4, a lower temp stat, alone, will NOT make it run cooler.

RACE ON!!!

 

160 will work fine for you, I run 160 here in La. and have no trouble getting up to a good warm operating temp even in winter.

Stock is 195.

 

I put a 160 in my '88 for the same reason...very hot summers here in Ca...and the car ran hot at slow, stop and go especially with the air on. As soon as I got up to speed, like on the highwy, it cooled right down.

The car does still run around 200 in summer traffic now, which I like alot better, but it still heats up if stopped for some reason at idle. Mainly it takes longer to get the engine and oil up to temp. Biggest downside is I went from 27/28 on highway to 25 on highway.

 

But a thermostat, only, change won't make it run one degree cooler than is already does.

RACE ON!!!

 

Also, what about some of those anti-freeze and/or radiator additives out there that claim to keep the car cooler? Anyone try these? Do they work? I HAVE to cool this car down some. BTW, the fan switch, 160 stat and new gasket is on order.

 

A thermostat itself will not make a difference in maximum temperature, no, however it will take longer to warm up and as such you will probably not see extreme temperatures any longer.

 

Especially if you don't drive it far enough. Of course then it's not getting warm enough, for long enough to boil the contaminants out of the oil, which is one reason why there even IS a thermostat.


proemtpff,
Water Wetter is a very effective additive.

RACE ON!!!

 

A 160 deg f T-stat & fan switch will not assure low temps in high heat but will sure bring temps well below your current 230deg F for coolant in summer.

In winter, with a 160deg T-stat & fan switch, I run about 155deg F (opens a little early); in 95deg f heat it will get to 175deg F or so.

 

Also, what about some of those anti-freeze and/or radiator additives out there that claim to keep the car cooler? Anyone try these? Do they work? I've heard that a product called "water wetter" by Redline and "Purple Ice" by Royal Purple works wonders. Also the Amsoil brand anti-freeze is awsome. BTW, water does cool much better than antifreeze. Most race engines just run water in them. I might try the Amsoil with the 70/30 mix instead of the traditional 50/50 and add some water wetter or Purple ice. Both suggest doing this. I live in Central Florida and my car stays in my garage in winter unless I'm driving it so I don't think the 70/30 will hurt me at all. Also, using a Propylene Glycol Antifreeze like the Amsoil brand with one of the additives in a 70/30 mix rather than "normal" antifreeze will help reduce heat while keeping the water from freezing.

 

Water Wetter is simply a surfactant which assures that the coolant will "wet" the metal for better heat transfer.

Be careful about changing antifreeze as not all types are compatable with our systems.

 

with CFI-EFI about oil temps not getting hot enough to purge contaminants (moisture) if there to low.And a thermostat will not help the engine run cooler, accept on short drives-it only opens the passage at a lower temp.and has no effect on how hot a temp. you may reach.In the OLD days we thought removing the thermostat would help keep a engine with problems run cooler-that was quickly proven wrong-it actually had the oposite affect.The initial thought about the 160 stat was originally used by guys trying to get that last .1% of HP at the strip, But studies have proven that the SBC runs better at 180 and prolongs engine life vs. the 160 stat.and they would be better of packing the intake with ice for their run.You can verify this searching the web-like I did-unfortunately I didn't save the best address.

If your cooling system is in good condition (radiator, pump,Belt,hoses etc.) your motor has no internal problems (head gaskets, blocked passages etc) and there is no debris between radiator and condensor (there famous for this) then the best way to help keep the engine running cooler than it was designed is simply to have the fans come on at a lower temp. or install a larger radiator.

There's also been questions regarding open loop, closed loop regarding the 160 stat.that, I have no knowlege of.

And by all means USE the right ant freeze.

Ready for the flame.

 

What types of antifreeze are compatable with our systems?

 

If you have green now, you must stick with green.

Dont put any of the orange in there, even if you flushed the system.

 

Your car came with ethylene glycol. It is time tested and works well. I like your idea of 70% water with 30% antifreeze. *I* have found Water Wetter to be quite effective. Your 230* temps in stop and go traffic aren't that terrible. Stock, the main fan doesn't come on until about 225* and the aux at about 235*. Depending of the history of the car, the first thing I would do is pull the radiator and clean out from between the radiator and the condenser. Our "bottom feeders" can accumulate an amazing amount of junk in there. If the cooling system hasn't been well maintained or you have suspicions, you can send the rad to a shop to be flow tested while it is out. Otherwise, use a soft bristled brush to clean both the rad and condenser fins. Also, use a small screw driver to gently straighten any bent fins. Before you pull the rad do a VERY thorough flush of the cooling system. As I stated, a lower temp stat won't make it run any cooler. Earlier fan on temps CAN. IF the temps aren't more to your liking after all of the above, we can get into altering the fan(s) operation.

RACE ON!!!

 

I looked the the rad fins are clean and clear of any "junk". The systen needs to be flushed and new added. The car has a total of 9,000 miles on it. She's my garage queen. Yes, you read it right 9,000 original miles and its a '86.

 

I installed the "Low Temperature Electric Cooling Fan Switch" from Mid America and left the stock 195 Deg thermostat in. I took the car for a spin "hard run" and the temp gauge stayed in the 186-206 range. Nice improvement! Then the next day around the same time, temp and humidity installed the Hypertech 160 Deg thermostat. Again, I went for a spin, ran the car the same miles and even harder than the day before. The result was a temp gauge staying between 175-182. I'd go to say thats a marked improvement over the entire stock "OEM" setup. Also, the car feels more responsive. Ohhhh, I also did the intake coolent bypass when I changed the fan switch. I say the General doesn't know......jack crap about fine tuning these cars from the factory.....thats my opinion anyway.