Does pan need to drop for LT1 timing cover?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Does pan need to drop for LT1 timing cover?
Two questions about changing the LT1 timing cover:
1) Does the front of the oil pan need to be dropped?
2) Can anyone recommend a good LT1 balancer removal/install tool? I don't need mega quality, since I'll probably use it 3 times in my life, but...
- Dave
1) Does the front of the oil pan need to be dropped?
2) Can anyone recommend a good LT1 balancer removal/install tool? I don't need mega quality, since I'll probably use it 3 times in my life, but...
- Dave
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bogus
1) no.
Originally Posted by bogus
2) check autozone...
Any more specific help would be appreciated...
#4
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor 06
Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
But Step 6 of "Engine front cover assembly" is "Remove oil pan assembly". Are you sure?
I did, but they list only a universal tool as far as I can see.
Any more specific help would be appreciated...
I did, but they list only a universal tool as far as I can see.
Any more specific help would be appreciated...
<-----------
you do not have to remove any steering lines. just be very carefully lift/bend the line, don't get wild with it cause you don't want to put a kink in it. line only needs to be lifted up alittle. remember the pulley comes off first the the hub. my puller will not get em both at same time. i also marked my hub (black ring) this way when i reinstall i see where it needs to go.
#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I'm looking at the factory shop manual. The pan doesn't -bolt- to the cover, but it does use the bottom of the cover to seal against.
I guess its -better- to drop the front of the pan and bring it back up against the cover when you're done, I'm just curious as to whether anyone's done it without lowering the pan. Can you get it back on easily?
I guess its -better- to drop the front of the pan and bring it back up against the cover when you're done, I'm just curious as to whether anyone's done it without lowering the pan. Can you get it back on easily?
#7
Drop the pan. The front of the oil pan gasket seats against a lip on the timing cover. You can get the cover off but reinstalling without knocking that gasket off / tearing it up is gonna be trouble.
#9
Safety Car
It's a SBC, drop the front of the pan trust me geting the seal over the lip w/o droping the front of the pan is a PITA and a crap shoot not to tear the front seal.
#10
Drifting
When I did it I dropped the pan. Honestly - I can't see another way to do it.
Important - get everything else out of the way. Starter, exhaust, oil filter housing... It's a big job with the engine on the car. But the Felpro 1 piece gasket set is great.
For pulling the hub:
1. remove the pulley - it's pressed on - so you have to beat it off from the backside underneath while rotating the unit to keep it from binding. If you're replacing the opti - I used a pickle fork on the opti cover from side to side till it came off. This ruined the opti - so don't do it if you're planning to reuse it.
2. I pulled the hub using an old fashioned hub puller (the kind with three wings and the center bolt. It's a pain because you have to put it together through the power steering pump line that sits on the support going across the front of the engine. There's a special tool to do it that is supposed to be easier - made by kieth black. I think it's over $100.
Important - get everything else out of the way. Starter, exhaust, oil filter housing... It's a big job with the engine on the car. But the Felpro 1 piece gasket set is great.
For pulling the hub:
1. remove the pulley - it's pressed on - so you have to beat it off from the backside underneath while rotating the unit to keep it from binding. If you're replacing the opti - I used a pickle fork on the opti cover from side to side till it came off. This ruined the opti - so don't do it if you're planning to reuse it.
2. I pulled the hub using an old fashioned hub puller (the kind with three wings and the center bolt. It's a pain because you have to put it together through the power steering pump line that sits on the support going across the front of the engine. There's a special tool to do it that is supposed to be easier - made by kieth black. I think it's over $100.
Last edited by mitchcole; 06-14-2005 at 09:01 AM.
#11
Race Director
Originally Posted by bogus
I don't know why you would have to remove the pan... is the book the helm manual? or the haynes?
The pan and timing cover are not connected anymore...
The pan and timing cover are not connected anymore...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=231&TopicID=2
I used a Kent-Moore LT1/4 puller and installer kit at $250. Yes, very expensive, but it makes the job so easy. You could rent it out to your friends and be a hero.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2003
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Originally Posted by 99svrcpe
Unfortunately the pan has to come down. I know it's allot of extra work but you will be happier in the long run.
#14
Racer
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Quick Hint: You should not have to take the oil pan off completely. Only needs to drop 3/4" or so... On my '95, the timing cover bolts are the same diameter as most of the oil pan bolts, but about 1/2" longer.
So.
Remove 2 oil pan bolts fwd and 2 aft. Replace these with timing cover bolts.
Remove the rest of the oil pan bolts. Oil pan drops enough. Remove timing cover...
Of course, this is assuming that you are not going to replace the oil pan gasket...
Good luck
So.
Remove 2 oil pan bolts fwd and 2 aft. Replace these with timing cover bolts.
Remove the rest of the oil pan bolts. Oil pan drops enough. Remove timing cover...
Of course, this is assuming that you are not going to replace the oil pan gasket...
Good luck
#15
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '03
I just did mine and yes I had to pull the pan. I don't see how else it would be done.
I would also suggest the Kent Morre hub tool specific for the LT-1 hub. Made the job super easy.
I would also suggest the Kent Morre hub tool specific for the LT-1 hub. Made the job super easy.
#16
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
Two questions about changing the LT1 timing cover:
1) Does the front of the oil pan need to be dropped?
2) Can anyone recommend a good LT1 balancer removal/install tool? I don't need mega quality, since I'll probably use it 3 times in my life, but...
- Dave
1) Does the front of the oil pan need to be dropped?
2) Can anyone recommend a good LT1 balancer removal/install tool? I don't need mega quality, since I'll probably use it 3 times in my life, but...
- Dave
2. The balancer will come off with three bolts, as for a hub puller...I would talk to Trevor at Exotic Muscle (480 967 4222)...he's used plenty of them and some work a lot better than others! Not every 3-fingered puller will work right...he can also tell you where to get an installer as well.
#17
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
Two questions about changing the LT1 timing cover:
1) Does the front of the oil pan need to be dropped?
2) Can anyone recommend a good LT1 balancer removal/install tool? I don't need mega quality, since I'll probably use it 3 times in my life, but...
- Dave
1) Does the front of the oil pan need to be dropped?
2) Can anyone recommend a good LT1 balancer removal/install tool? I don't need mega quality, since I'll probably use it 3 times in my life, but...
- Dave
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...07&forum_id=48
#18
Instructor
Take a look at this thread as well for puller info;
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...07&forum_id=48
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...07&forum_id=48
Then use the puller to remove the hub. Remove the hub bolt and replace it WITHOUT THE WASHER with a 2.5". As the hub came off I had to go to a 3" hub bolt for the last 1/4" or so. I'm sure there is no one way that is best. This is just what worked for me. I haven't reinstalled yet. I'm doing a can swap and I'm trying to get my oil pan off so I can get the front cover off. The oil pan is really stuck on. So I went ahead and ordered a felpro gasket figuring this thing will tear Gary
#19
Tech Contributor
I just did mine in a 1994. Discount auto parts or auto zone have pullers, free to use. $20 and you get your money back when you return it. I removed the three pulley bolts, and soaked it in PB blaster over night. Then from the back, underneath tapped the pulley with a 2"x1" x20" piece of hardwood, as close to the center as you can. I did it from the passenger side. Then rotate crank ninety degrees. tap, tap. rotate ninety degrees, etc. I didn't beat it to death, but I was firm. After two rotations it fell off.
Then use the puller to remove the hub. Remove the hub bolt and replace it WITHOUT THE WASHER with a 2.5". As the hub came off I had to go to a 3" hub bolt for the last 1/4" or so. I'm sure there is no one way that is best. This is just what worked for me. I haven't reinstalled yet. I'm doing a can swap and I'm trying to get my oil pan off so I can get the front cover off. The oil pan is really stuck on. So I went ahead and ordered a felpro gasket figuring this thing will tear Gary
Then use the puller to remove the hub. Remove the hub bolt and replace it WITHOUT THE WASHER with a 2.5". As the hub came off I had to go to a 3" hub bolt for the last 1/4" or so. I'm sure there is no one way that is best. This is just what worked for me. I haven't reinstalled yet. I'm doing a can swap and I'm trying to get my oil pan off so I can get the front cover off. The oil pan is really stuck on. So I went ahead and ordered a felpro gasket figuring this thing will tear Gary
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