If you guys were going to buy or have already, where would you buy the rotating assembly? What would be the wish list? I see all kinds of these kits on the net with varying prices ans I'm not sure what I need.

The heads are another story but I will most likely go with bob at precision porting after for that.

The car is a daily driver and will not see the track; only street reacing on occasion.

 

That's a big can of worms man.

The one I built was a SCAT cast crank, with probe forged rods and pistons. Pretty budget minded, and could of lived forever at the power levels I pushed through it.

 

I used Probe Forged 9.5:1 aluminum pistons

Eagle Forged 6 Inch I beam 5140 rods

Crankshaft Scat 4130 cast


Prety good price. one can pay to the moon for some brands of these parts, but it may not be necessary for your needs.

 

Scat makes decent parts and so does Eagle. but its all up to the buyer. i've used and eagle crank and forged crower rods in my pontiac's 455 because i wanted it to take the abuse of my lead foot and it does every saturday night.

its all to his own opinion but since currently im building a 383 right now im sticking with some scat products and some hyperuetectics from federal mogul. nothing special for a 84' crossfire but if i was making a high winding 355 11.1 compression,solid roller cam,210cc+heads meant to see 6000RPM+ all the way down the track i'd choose CROWER bottom end parts with J/E pistons.

JMHO guys and gals

 

www.cnc-motorsports.com

For what you want, all cast.
But I do want to recommend to you file fit rings. Do not trust the "pre-gapped" rings. If you do get them, fit them into the individual cylinders they'll go into anyway. Cast iron is plenty fine.
Take the extra effort to balance everything inspite of someone telling you "it's already balanced". Including the flywheel and harmonic balancer.
What year car is this?

 

Here is a link to the place that I got mine from.
Go Fast Parts
The guy seems pretty knowledgeable and doesn't mind answering questions.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I really want 500HP (note not RWHP) as a mininum. Do you guys thing that's possible? I see many quarter mile times and doing the math it seems quite possible but I don't see many dyno sheets listed for 383. Thanks again.

Hey Neat, I see your 92 had huge RWHP. Was that a 383?

 

500 hp will require good heads and a med size cam. with 500 fwhp i wouldnt cut corners with parts. id go all forged with a good cnc ported 195 or 210 head.

as far as neats rwhp.. im sure he said it was on spray.

 

Mine is being built right now with:

JE forged pistons
Eagle forged crank
Manley forged rods

10:1 compression

Heads are already Stage III ported, but they are opening them up a little more. Already have a pretty big cam.

Can't wait to get her back!!

 

boulder, sounds nice.. should be strong.

im building a 396 now.

eagle forged crank
lunati billet rods
srp nos pistons
comp cam 256/260 @.050 solid roller. 650/650 lift
brodix m2 215 cnc heads.
estimated hp 625 fw. + 250 shot.

 

 

It can't be stressed enough that a good combo comes from well matched up parts. So you may ask, how does one know what a good matched up combo consists of? The easiest way is to find other combos that are performing well and copy them to a T.

I can't count how many people have emailed/IM me about either our 406s or 434 combos, asking if I thought it would go as good with say a set of AFR heads, or edlebrock heads. The answer is pretty simple - You won't know until you try it, but I can assure you that if you match it, and everything is done right in the buildup - it should go every bit as good.

Don't get me wrong, I don't want to discourage anyone from experimenting - but trust me. I do lots of that and it costs lots of $ and lots of TIME. And most of the time, the results are very minimal. Once you get a good setup, its tough to gain much more over what that setup can physically make. You can however "fine tune" to make it incrimentally better. For example, with Jerkyboys 434 combo we did, we instilled everything we have learned off ours into it, plus a few "fine tuning" items that should make it actually faster. But following that recipe for a 434 we could produce 100s of them that would all run within 10hp of one another. As before mentioned, its not magic.

On the side of parts, your bottom end of the motor needs to be strong enough for what your trying to do, with some safety factor. The rods being the piece that is factored the most since they take the brunt of the abuse. The pistons and crank follow thereafter. Pistons can be a PITA, so I do not chince on them (forged all the way). Rods as previously mentioned need to be good (forged and GOOD brand), while cranks you can get away with more. There is power in the crankshaft (lightweight), but you will pay BIG bucks for these pieces and a spun bearing can cost you LOTS of money in a big hurry, therefore my thoughts here are to go middle of the road. Eagle makes very good pieces that are good to 1000hp, and are remarkably at low prices. <500 dollars. You can get a crower, and pay 3k for it, and it will make more power than the eagle crank most likely, but may drive you to the grave if something small happens to it.

So in the nutshell, I would make the bottom end for a lack of better words "disposable" - that term is being use very loosely here, so don't take that litterally.

The heads are where the power is truely made. Good heads = good power per CI. There is no way around this. You need two things to make power, air and fuel. The fuel is the easy part, the air is the tough part. The more air, the more power. So get the absolute BEST heads you can afford to buy and you will be lightyears ahead. Build a killer bottom end with all the best part, and put a set of box stock dart heads on the motor and it will make virtually laughable power. Put a good set of heads on it, and it will gain 100+ HP. More air= more power.

My suggestions are as follows. Find a good combo and match it. If your experiementing on a new combo, your budget should look something like this.

30% bottom end 70% topend = good motor

The common problem I see is most guys do it this way:

70% bottom end 30% topend = lousy motor

Hope that help you out. When it doubt, the best rule to follow(this is not school) is to copy.

As a side note this is why most crate motor builder hold back information such as cam designs and other aspects of the motor. They find a combo that works well, and they hold those secrets near and dear - otherwise every other builder will also use them.

 

Can't speak to other combos but mine works prety well Scat forged crank and H-Beam rods & SRP forged pistons. Sig has a little more detail

 

With a large enough budget, it is entirely possible.
Without going pressurized, you may not like the side effects, though.

Keep us posted.

Larry
code5coupe

 

My wish list?

J&E pistons

oliver rods

Hank the crank crankshaft

For the top end I wish for a set of SB2.2 heads.

Unfortunatly the reality is:

I have eagle crank and rods

SRP pistons

check it out;

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382538

and stock heads that were ported by me.

 

Aren't JE and SRP the same pistons? They are made at the same place, and than just boxed differently??

 

basicly yes they are the same.

ski...nice post.

 

The car is a daily driver and will not see the track; only street reacing on occasion.[/QUOTE]

Um...I think you really meant street "revving" or "rolling", because none of us here on the forum street race, and we all know that those posts are not allowed

 

SRP are "off the shelf" pistons I'd need custom pistons to keep the compression ratio reasonable.

But yes Sportman racing product pistons are made by J&E.

I almost posted this in my last post but I thought nah, I dont think anyone would be too pickey.