trailing arms - which ones?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,296
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From: Largo Florida
trailing arms - which ones?
I know the adjustable rod end types are the best for performance. However, I had some on another car one time but found them noisey (transfering road noise to the cabin) and the rod ends started to wear out and klunked. Can I expect the same if I get them for a Corvette? One guy said that they weren't that noisey.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 110
From: Austin Texas
Had mine on the car for 5 years...got them from Vette Brakes. Have the camber rods as well.
No issues with noise at all. I keep them lubed at an interval of every 6-8 weeks when I'm driving it to keep the ends from wearing out so fast.
A small grease gun with a flex-hose on the end is great for this...(when you don't have a lift to put the car on).
No issues with noise at all. I keep them lubed at an interval of every 6-8 weeks when I'm driving it to keep the ends from wearing out so fast.
A small grease gun with a flex-hose on the end is great for this...(when you don't have a lift to put the car on).
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Originally Posted by ericcer
One guy said that they weren't that noisey.
Every person has a different tolerance for "noise".
Even the sellers of these components will tell you they are not for street use, for the very reasons you mentioned: noise and fast wear.
Since you've had spherical rod-end parts before, you know what to expect. It's all in what you are willing to tolerate.
Larry
code5coupe
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I'm looking at all the new parts listed in the VBP catalog for my rear suspension, so are all these upgraded 'racing' parts that noisy? I'm basically looking at EVERY part in the catalog for a car this old.
I have a nasty clicking/clanking sound when going over bumps coming from the rear suspension, sounds like metal/metal contact and its driving me nuts because there are potholes every 2 feet in Baton Rouge. I want it quieter.
I have a nasty clicking/clanking sound when going over bumps coming from the rear suspension, sounds like metal/metal contact and its driving me nuts because there are potholes every 2 feet in Baton Rouge. I want it quieter.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Originally Posted by vader86
I want it quieter.
That's why they gave (and still give) the Corvette bushings made of rubber.
Larry
code5coupe
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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Rubber bushings are out of the question, I want those in polygraphite.
If something needs frequent lubing, thats doable, but if its going to crick/clank all the time and destroy my confidence in the rear, I dont need it.
If something needs frequent lubing, thats doable, but if its going to crick/clank all the time and destroy my confidence in the rear, I dont need it.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,296
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From: Largo Florida
Originally Posted by vader86
Rubber bushings are out of the question, I want those in polygraphite.
If something needs frequent lubing, thats doable, but if its going to crick/clank all the time and destroy my confidence in the rear, I dont need it.
If something needs frequent lubing, thats doable, but if its going to crick/clank all the time and destroy my confidence in the rear, I dont need it.
That would be somethig I could deal with to. Still I would like to hear more opinions on the use of rod end instead of rubber and poly.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,816
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From: Austin, TX
When NEW, heim joints (spherical rod ends, whichever you prefer to call them) don't make any noise. The clunk comes after you've driven with them for a while and they've worn down. I run heim ends on my rear camber rods and they've held up fine on the street for the past 3 years, but I only put maybe 2K-3K miles on it each year.
If the car sees a good deal of normal street driving, I'd recommend sticking with poly if you don't want rubber.
If the car sees a good deal of normal street driving, I'd recommend sticking with poly if you don't want rubber.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: Los Gatos, CA
Rod end longevity is also affected by the quality and materials of the rod ends themselves. You can add seals to protect them from water too. High quality telfon lined chromemoly rod ends will last a lot longer than the economy types that some suppliers provide with their linkages.
I run only certain brands and use the largest possible rod ends with very tight fitting reducer sleeves.
Good luck
I run only certain brands and use the largest possible rod ends with very tight fitting reducer sleeves.
Good luck
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: West Islip New York
Originally Posted by ericcer
Still I would like to hear more opinions on the use of rod end instead of rubber and poly.
I also appreciated the fact that they steered me away from a product that cost more for the right product for my application.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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So are VBPs Racing-version parts usable on street cars, or do you want the HD-version? Whats the real difference in these parts?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,521
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From: West Islip New York
Originally Posted by vader86
So are VBPs Racing-version parts usable on street cars, or do you want the HD-version? Whats the real difference in these parts?
I think the only HD piece they make is the tie rod, struts are desginated "racing" or "racing smart" with the racing smart relocating the strut end for a better control angle. Then of course there's the poly strut in both flavors as well...
