Glowing RED Rotors!!
all other wheels were fine.. after it cooled down.. wheel was completly locked up.. so.. i get it towed home.. which was a pain cause a flat bed couldnt get it up...
so.. next day i pull the wheel off.. guess what... wheel turns.. not locked up.. not taken any chances so I replace the caliper with a new one.. set of new pads.. new rotor..! get if all back together...
take it for a spin... braking is fine.. BUT!
that wheel is making a ton of grinding noices..!! sounds horrible.. like the wheel is gonna fall off or something..
wheel bearing?
maybe a balljoint got messed up?
or maybe it was the caliper locking up again?
did a search for similar stuff.. found out about the brake lines colapsing.. so i will replace that too..
really hope its not the wheel bearing!! $180... really dont want to spend that...
what other damage could that heat have caused.. should i replace the master cyl?
thanks in advance
all other wheels were fine.. after it cooled down.. wheel was completly locked up.. so.. i get it towed home.. which was a pain cause a flat bed couldnt get it up...
so.. next day i pull the wheel off.. guess what... wheel turns.. not locked up.. not taken any chances so I replace the caliper with a new one.. set of new pads.. new rotor..! get if all back together...
take it for a spin... braking is fine.. BUT!
that wheel is making a ton of grinding noices..!! sounds horrible.. like the wheel is gonna fall off or something..
wheel bearing?
maybe a balljoint got messed up?
or maybe it was the caliper locking up again?
did a search for similar stuff.. found out about the brake lines colapsing.. so i will replace that too..
really hope its not the wheel bearing!! $180... really dont want to spend that...
what other damage could that heat have caused.. should i replace the master cyl?
thanks in advance
I doubt it's a ball joint. They would not do this if they were failing. If they were weak, the front might feel a little weak, and you would get some clicking at times. Mostly when you pulled out from a stop.
Testing the bearing is easy. Jack it up and wiggle the wheel. 9 and 3 o'clock test the tierod ends. 12 and 6 test the bearing. There should be no more then a millimeter or 2 deflection. More than that... eh. Now... there is a chance that all the heat from the rotor entered the bearing and damaged it. Plus, the lock up...
I am thinking you should get a rotor, too. Glowing hot is one thing... but welding a pad to the rotor... damn. That should transfer all sorts of crap. It could also hot spot and damage the rotor.
What I would do, remove the caliper, and put the wheel back on with a lug or 2, and spin it. This will help find the noise source. It could be rotor/pad rubbing.... but at the very least, you will be able to elminate the bearing.
180.00 for a front wheel bearing??? Thats non-ABS prices! What year?
I doubt it's a ball joint. They would not do this if they were failing. If they were weak, the front might feel a little weak, and you would get some clicking at times. Mostly when you pulled out from a stop.
Testing the bearing is easy. Jack it up and wiggle the wheel. 9 and 3 o'clock test the tierod ends. 12 and 6 test the bearing. There should be no more then a millimeter or 2 deflection. More than that... eh. Now... there is a chance that all the heat from the rotor entered the bearing and damaged it. Plus, the lock up...
I am thinking you should get a rotor, too. Glowing hot is one thing... but welding a pad to the rotor... damn. That should transfer all sorts of crap. It could also hot spot and damage the rotor.
What I would do, remove the caliper, and put the wheel back on with a lug or 2, and spin it. This will help find the noise source. It could be rotor/pad rubbing.... but at the very least, you will be able to elminate the bearing.
180.00 for a front wheel bearing??? Thats non-ABS prices! What year?
Last edited by aboatguy; Sep 10, 2005 at 02:26 AM.
Also, replace that bearing and make sure it didn't sieze up and was turning on the spindle shaft, ruining it as well.

It's the bearing...
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Also, replace that bearing and make sure it didn't sieze up and was turning on the spindle shaft, ruining it as well.
Slight chance it might be a collapsed brake hose. Since they are not expensive, I would replace it.
To make metal glow red it should be really hot and I would think that a lot of components must wrap when cooling down.
There is a manufacturing process called spin welding, and it seems that it was this what happended.
Also, replace that bearing and make sure it didn't sieze up and was turning on the spindle shaft, ruining it as well.
happens all the time





The heat might have damaged the bearing. RED hot rotor is VERY hot
My first thought when I read this is the "primary cup" in the master cylinder is not returning to its correct postion behind the "relief" port -- the main cause of this is someone lengthens/extends the rod in the power brake booster too far, but could be caused by something rubbing on the brake pedal assembly and not letting it return.
But, I would expect this to affect more than just one wheel -- I would think it would have cooked all the brakes.
I guess it is possible that the wheel bearing came apart and the wheel "cocked" in a position where the rotor was in constant contact with the pads in the caliper causing the problem.
Tom Piper
















