Alternate p/n for wheel bearings, pics, cheaper prices...
#22
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Originally Posted by Tom Piper
I'm thinking that the stock rear bearings on a C4 are "ball bearing" type -- they won't handle lateral loading like a "tapered roller bearing."
Supposedly the fronts are tapered rollers. Supposedly Timken only makes tapered rollers. The tapered rollers I pulled out of my stock diff are timkens. The front sealed bearings are NDH. Replacements I bought were NDH. Maybe timken makes the bearing and NDH sticks it in their hub assembly?
Either way, the ball bearings are a bad choice for the rear end.
#23
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My VW uses tapered rolling elements in the rear, and ball bearings in the front!!
A properly-designed ball bearing will withstand lateral loads as well or better than rollers.
Larry
code5coupe
A properly-designed ball bearing will withstand lateral loads as well or better than rollers.
Larry
code5coupe
#24
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Even if the bearing races are setup like the one in the pic below...?
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...ring_types.pdf
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...ring_types.pdf
#25
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the next logical question is:
did gm make an identical size bearing with rollers for a different car's front that would fit our rear? although, now i ask the question, it does sound highly improbable.
thanks for the info coaster, you just saved me money, and for the heads up from everyone else.
did gm make an identical size bearing with rollers for a different car's front that would fit our rear? although, now i ask the question, it does sound highly improbable.
thanks for the info coaster, you just saved me money, and for the heads up from everyone else.
Last edited by parafrog; 05-16-2006 at 04:40 PM.
#26
Safety Car
I finally found the time to look in my '92 shop manual for the specifications on the amount of free play in the C4 wheel bearings.
On page 3-20 of book 1 of the shop manuals it states:
"If looseness exceeds 0.1270 mm (0.005") replace hub and bearing assembly."
Since I can't adjust the bearing play on my C4, I can only use the adjustments that I made on my C2 as a reference.
I made several adjustments on my C2 rear bearings by changing shims, and measuring it with a dial indicator and then checked it with the not-so-accurate way of grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 O'clock and rocking the wheel.
C2 rear wheel bearing play tolerance is .001" minimum to .008" maximum.
Zero play is unacceptable on a C2 rear bearing.
My impressions of the feel:
.001" play = seemed too loose
.004" play = don't drive it more than one mile to get home.
.008" play = call a flatbed, the wheel is going to fall off just sitting here
C2 rear bearings are husky tapered roller bearings.
So, I can only assume that .004" of play on a C4 (which according to the book is acceptable) must feel pretty bad.
Tom Piper
On page 3-20 of book 1 of the shop manuals it states:
"If looseness exceeds 0.1270 mm (0.005") replace hub and bearing assembly."
Since I can't adjust the bearing play on my C4, I can only use the adjustments that I made on my C2 as a reference.
I made several adjustments on my C2 rear bearings by changing shims, and measuring it with a dial indicator and then checked it with the not-so-accurate way of grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 O'clock and rocking the wheel.
C2 rear wheel bearing play tolerance is .001" minimum to .008" maximum.
Zero play is unacceptable on a C2 rear bearing.
My impressions of the feel:
.001" play = seemed too loose
.004" play = don't drive it more than one mile to get home.
.008" play = call a flatbed, the wheel is going to fall off just sitting here
C2 rear bearings are husky tapered roller bearings.
So, I can only assume that .004" of play on a C4 (which according to the book is acceptable) must feel pretty bad.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; 05-16-2006 at 06:31 PM.
#27
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I had one, measured .004" play from the edge of the flange to the knuckle. It was knocking audibly during hard cornering.
The other bearing with .002" was quiet.
I replaced both. New ones had zero play.
The other bearing with .002" was quiet.
I replaced both. New ones had zero play.
#28
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by Tom Piper
Excellent data, makes comparing a breeze -- well done.
Is the stock rear bearing on a C4 a ball bearing?
Does someone have an old/defective rear bearing they could knock apart to see if it is a ball or roller bearing?
Can it be replaced by one that is a roller bearing?
Tom Piper
Is the stock rear bearing on a C4 a ball bearing?
Does someone have an old/defective rear bearing they could knock apart to see if it is a ball or roller bearing?
Can it be replaced by one that is a roller bearing?
Tom Piper
#29
Originally Posted by Tom Piper
I've heard too many stories of how the C4 rear bearings don't hold up.
I'm thinking that the stock rear bearings on a C4 are "ball bearing" type -- they won't handle lateral loading like a "tapered roller bearing."
It would be nice to know if they are ball bearing and if a roller bearing (or possibly a heavier duty roller bearing) was available as a simple bolt on.
I think the front bearings on a C4 are roller bearings.
Notice the reference to thrust loads:
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...s/overview.asp
Although this is somewhat extreme, this gives you an idea of how lateral loads are handled, click on the "Thrust Bearing" link and notice the angle of the cup.
Tom Piper
I'm thinking that the stock rear bearings on a C4 are "ball bearing" type -- they won't handle lateral loading like a "tapered roller bearing."
It would be nice to know if they are ball bearing and if a roller bearing (or possibly a heavier duty roller bearing) was available as a simple bolt on.
I think the front bearings on a C4 are roller bearings.
Notice the reference to thrust loads:
http://www.timken.com/products/beari...s/overview.asp
Although this is somewhat extreme, this gives you an idea of how lateral loads are handled, click on the "Thrust Bearing" link and notice the angle of the cup.
Tom Piper
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I had one, measured .004" play from the edge of the flange to the knuckle. It was knocking audibly during hard cornering.
The other bearing with .002" was quiet.
I replaced both. New ones had zero play.
The other bearing with .002" was quiet.
I replaced both. New ones had zero play.
#31
Safety Car
Originally Posted by SS409 425HP
I disassembled one (1987 rear) using the hyd. press at work. It is a ball bearing design. Took quite a bit of pressure to push it apart.
I'd really like to get a couple of hub/bearing assemblies that would bolt on and were tapered roller bearings.
I wonder if there is a way to find out -- like, would a company that makes the stock bearing, such as Timken, be able to come up with an equivalent?
Tom Piper
#32
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I just went to autozone with the bad Timken. I purchased it on April 5th. Now it's May 16th. They refused to give me my money back, only a replacement.....
#33
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Originally Posted by Tom Piper
Thanks for the information.
I'd really like to get a couple of hub/bearing assemblies that would bolt on and were tapered roller bearings.
I wonder if there is a way to find out -- like, would a company that makes the stock bearing, such as Timken, be able to come up with an equivalent?
Tom Piper
I'd really like to get a couple of hub/bearing assemblies that would bolt on and were tapered roller bearings.
I wonder if there is a way to find out -- like, would a company that makes the stock bearing, such as Timken, be able to come up with an equivalent?
Tom Piper
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Ah, ok. So here's my new parts list:
84-85 Vette Front = 513009 or 513019 or 513085 or 513090
86-90 Vette ABS Front = 513019
91-96 Vette ABS Front = 513085 or 513090
84-96 Vette Rear = 513020 (or maybe 513013)
84-85 Vette Front = 513009 or 513019 or 513085 or 513090
86-90 Vette ABS Front = 513019
91-96 Vette ABS Front = 513085 or 513090
84-96 Vette Rear = 513020 (or maybe 513013)
Tryed Gm http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ and others... and no hits :o
#37
Safety Car
Originally Posted by rocco16
My VW uses tapered rolling elements in the rear, and ball bearings in the front!!
A properly-designed ball bearing will withstand lateral loads as well or better than rollers.
Larry
code5coupe
A properly-designed ball bearing will withstand lateral loads as well or better than rollers.
Larry
code5coupe
Heres one of the early ones for a 1951 Chevy:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=184&ptset=A
It just doesn't seem like a ball bearing would have as much lateral support as a cone-shaped tapered roller bearing.
This one is for a 1990 Lincoln TownCar:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=184&ptset=A
On this one, make sure you read to the bottom about tapered bearings.
http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing3.htm
http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing2.htm
Interestingly, on my 1990 Lincoln TownCar rear, 100% of the side thrust is applied to the inside the differential by the semi-floating solid axle -- the roller bearing wheel bearing is flat.
For inward thrust, the solid axle pushes against the pinion shaft in the differential gear cage, which normally turns at the same speed as the wheel.
For outward thrust, the solid axle pulls against the clip in the groove in the axle against the inside if the side gear.
If the axle breaks, the wheel (axle and all) is coming out of the car on the next corner.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; 05-17-2006 at 07:27 AM.
#38
Safety Car
Originally Posted by larryfs
what ever happened to the old fashion spindle, and the bearing races were pressed into the rotor, and the bearings were disposable.
But, boy are they a B??CH to take apart and setup. In fact, you better have access to a 20 ton press -- although, I've done a few without it. For most, I've had to pull the trailing arm (bearing, axle, brakes and all) off the car and put it in a press. There is a special "on the car" press that works for the ones with disc brakes (it attaches to the caliper mount), but won't work on the '63 and '64 with drum brakes. That special tool is about another $200.
And, the special tools for setup ran me about $350.
The inner races are interference fit on the axle -- once you put it together, it's staying.
So, for side play, you need a special axle simulator where the inner races are not interference fit. This way, you can change shims and check the play with a dial indicator until you get it correct. Then, you install the setup on the axle ONE time.
If you don't know who JohnZ is, view his comment and "Public Profile" in this link:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+wheel+bearing
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; 05-17-2006 at 08:27 AM.
#40
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Also an update, the Caddy bearings seem to be out of stock and out of production.
And Pep Boys here has zero more rear wheel bearings with lifetime warranty.
My listing seems to say the Napa bearings are SKF. I did that because they use SKF part numbers. But this doesn't explain the two different prices. If you get the answer, please post it here for the rest of us.
And Pep Boys here has zero more rear wheel bearings with lifetime warranty.
My listing seems to say the Napa bearings are SKF. I did that because they use SKF part numbers. But this doesn't explain the two different prices. If you get the answer, please post it here for the rest of us.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; 03-20-2007 at 12:33 AM.