C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

The Dreaded EGR Valve Replacement - L98

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Old 08-11-2006, 09:48 PM
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shilly
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Default The Dreaded EGR Valve Replacement - L98

I have an 86 coupe and found out I need to replace my EGR valve (I can clean it, but would rather replace). A mechanic told me it would be about $100 for the valve and he will have to take the plenum off and also get some new gaskets for the plenum.

He estimated about 2.8 hours of labor, total job would be around $350. For the people that have changed theirs, if you had to do it again, would you pay someone a little over $200 to do it? I figure I can either:

a) let them do everything - $350
b) I buy all the parts, $70 for a delco valve, $20 for the gaskets, and pay $200 for labor - $290
c) I buy the parts, 70+20= $90 and spend probably 4 or 5 hours replacing it. I have done minor tune up stuff, but nothing like this. How hard is it?
Old 08-11-2006, 10:02 PM
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Its not too difficult. Just take your time. I rebuilt my intake over the winter for the 1st time and did it over the course of a few days. If you are just removing the plenum then you shouldn't run into problems as long as you put everything back the right way and don't strip the plenum bolts.
Old 08-11-2006, 10:08 PM
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pablocruise
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if you had to do it again, would you pay someone a little over $200 to do it?
No, it was pretty easy. Only part that was rough was the 2 bolts that hold it down.

Other than that, not bad. I would recommend the AC Delco part and not an aftermarket manufacturer. I tried a non AC D, it was slightly different from original. Engine ran, but overheated immediately. Got the AC D one and back to normal.
Old 08-11-2006, 10:13 PM
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JackDidley
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Do it yourself. If the plenum has never been off it will be stuck. I think I used a rubber mallet to loosen mine the first time.
Old 08-11-2006, 11:30 PM
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Sam Lam
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The plenum is realatively easy to remove. If you have not done this before, label each vac line and place all parts in Zip Loc bags that are labeled. If you need a procedure to remove the plenum, send me a note.

As for the EGR removal, this is a piece of cake.....if you use the open end of a 3/8 (as I recall) inch combination wrench (wrench will be in a vertical position) with a screwdriver in the box end as a lever.

If you have the tools, do it yourself! I believe this is about 3 hours of work with a couple of breaks for a Bud Lite

Last edited by Sam Lam; 08-12-2006 at 06:49 AM.
Old 08-12-2006, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
Do it yourself. If the plenum has never been off it will be stuck. I think I used a rubber mallet to loosen mine the first time.
YOu can do it without draining the coolant also-

loosen the 4 bolts holding the throttle body and tap it with the rubber mallet - the gaskets might be reusable for it.

then just take the upper bolts out of the runners, remove the brake booster line and othe vac linesm and the bolts for the throttle cable bracket. then whack the plenum front then back and repeat til it pops loose.

****Now would be the time to install an adjusable fuel pressure regulator if you want that capability for performance*****

****The BBK AFPR came with the plenum runner gaskets - some guys dont like BBK but I havent had any issue with mine****

good luck with the repair

Last edited by _twisted_; 08-12-2006 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:29 AM
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vinnies87
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First time tips:
1. get pizza box and draw each side (plenun), label front & back
2. punch holes in the drawing on the box
3. put boltes in each hole on the picture
4. Take pictures as you go
5. Never rely on memory.
Old 08-12-2006, 12:51 AM
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Great White North
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
Do it yourself. If the plenum has never been off it will be stuck. I think I used a rubber mallet to loosen mine the first time.
There is a lot of help available to you here!!!
Old 08-12-2006, 02:26 AM
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If you dont have emissions,you can plug the egr valve off,plug the vac line too, and go for a test drive and see if theres any problems with it being plugged off.I disabled mine and had no problems.Also,are you sure the valve is bad and its not a broken vacuum line to it?Does the car stall,or run rough?if so try plugging it off and test drive.If it doesnt ping or run like its misfiring,then youre good to go.if the car stalls alot the egr is sticking inside and sometimes a cleaner will loosen it back up.Theres a diaphragm plate that moves up and down to allow egr passage on part throttle.

Also,the 86 got the egr temp switch on the back of the intake manifold.These become brittle and break and throw a egr code check engine light but no driveability problems.The cure is a new switch.Its located on top of the egr cross over feed tube from the passenger side exhaust manifold.Be sure the mechanic isnt overlooking this simple fix and assuming the egr is the culprit.

Do you know what code was being displayed?

Hope we can help you out...and yes once you tear down the intake tubes and plenum and etc and learn where everything goes,its really very easy to do.Ive torn them down so many times I can reassemble it now with the parts layed all over the work bench in no particular order.
That helps alot when you become familair with everything and where they all go.

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Old 08-12-2006, 03:27 AM
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86PACER
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Originally Posted by 89 Paul in Cal
No, it was pretty easy. Only part that was rough was the 2 bolts that hold it down.



Also, just use a set of "crow foot" wrench sockets on the two EGR hold down bolts once the plenum is off, and it becomes child's play.

Old 08-12-2006, 07:16 AM
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PAINTER MAN
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My motor had about 90,000 miles on it when I replace my EGR. The Plentum was absolutely stuck on the thing because it had never been removed. I made the mistake of hit the runners with a rubber mallet. I put two nice dents in one and had to replace it. That thing was so stuck I had to pry and wedge it to get it off. Other then that it wasn't that bad. BE CAREFULL
Old 08-12-2006, 03:02 PM
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86PACER
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Originally Posted by PAINTER MAN
My motor had about 90,000 miles on it when I replace my EGR. The Plentum was absolutely stuck on the thing because it had never been removed. I made the mistake of hit the runners with a rubber mallet. I put two nice dents in one and had to replace it. That thing was so stuck I had to pry and wedge it to get it off. Other then that it wasn't that bad. BE CAREFULL
It helps to just loosen the bottom runner bolts.
Old 08-13-2006, 05:10 PM
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davemack
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After removing the upper runner bolts, I'd loosen only the passenger side lower runner bolts - that'll provide the necessary space to work the plenum loose and minimize your struggles with the torx bolt nearest the firewall on the drivers side...

Useful tip; buy an 8 inch T40 torx if you ever need to remove the lower runner bolt nearest the firewall on the driver side. You can get one on-line for $20. Just google "extra long T40 torx" and you'll find your links. Sure wish someone on the Forum would have mentioned that when I came seeking advice on replacing my injectors.. Could have saved me $500.

Another useful tip: Get AAA insurance - Gold level if your favored mechanic is located >5 miles from home. It costs <$100, and they'll tow you for free whenever needed, up to 100 miles. That way, even if you hit the wall, you just have the car towed in to a garage. Unless you break something (not likely if you are careful) you have nothing to lose by giving the wrench a turn. On the upside, you'll learn and save big money (not to mention get repairs from someone who actually gives a $hit!!). On the downside, you wasted a little bit of your weekend. Good luck. You CAN do that EGR replacement!
Old 08-14-2006, 12:06 AM
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The hardest part on my 85 was the vac line to the brake booster. But i take that back. The hardeat part would have been to part with 3 big ones for that repair. With a little time and patience even i did it.
Old 08-14-2006, 01:00 AM
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We're doin the same thing one of these weekend. Have the new valve already, but get to get some new Vac hose (going to replace all those right away too) and beer. Maybe next weekend.

Old 08-18-2006, 05:33 PM
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Default Egr

I changed my EGR this past weekend, this thread has a wealth of info!! After messing around with autozone and O'Reilys for 5 days, i finally went to the dealership and bought the AC Delco EGR. Those aftermarkets just dont fit right. The Ac Delco cost me $80, same price as the aftermarket at O'Reilys. I just need to add one little thing to this thread.

In order to remove the two bolts holding my EGR on, I had to bend the box-end side of a 3/8 inch wrench.

My bolts were EXTREMELY tight. I am certain that a crows foot or anything other than a box-end/socket would have round out the head.
Old 08-18-2006, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by purplewindworm
I changed my EGR this past weekend, this thread has a wealth of info!! After messing around with autozone and O'Reilys for 5 days, i finally went to the dealership and bought the AC Delco EGR. Those aftermarkets just dont fit right.
Yes, some aftermaket EGR's from the part stores have the vacuum nipple mounted on top of the EGR instead of the side like the original. This will cause the TPI plenum to hit, and not seat down far enough to get the runner bolts started. I had to grind down this stupid nipple. I did not notice this difference untill I started to put things back together.

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Old 08-19-2006, 01:18 AM
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cv67
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
It helps to just loosen the bottom runner bolts.
Make sure you get the ones on the ends that thread from the backside of the runner, kind of hard to see. Almost broke my runners the first time I tried to disassemble them, wasnt aware they were there.
THrow the plastic lines in the trash, they will just crack and give you fits with tiny vacuum leaks down the road.

Reassemble everything back in the EXACT order you took it apart unless you want lots of practice. Once you have it back together youll rip through it quick when your rear intake seal starts leaking.

If you are removing the base, go ahead and replace the Orings for the fuel line to fuel rail connection. Doing the Orings in the fuel rail is a good idea also for safety's sake. THey are Viton and available through FelPro or GM.

Happy wrenching
Old 08-19-2006, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by shilly
I have an 86 coupe and found out I need to replace my EGR valve (I can clean it, but would rather replace). A mechanic told me it would be about $100 for the valve and he will have to take the plenum off and also get some new gaskets for the plenum.

He estimated about 2.8 hours of labor, total job would be around $350. For the people that have changed theirs, if you had to do it again, would you pay someone a little over $200 to do it? I figure I can either:

a) let them do everything - $350
b) I buy all the parts, $70 for a delco valve, $20 for the gaskets, and pay $200 for labor - $290
c) I buy the parts, 70+20= $90 and spend probably 4 or 5 hours replacing it. I have done minor tune up stuff, but nothing like this. How hard is it?

$350 or $290 isn't bad, particularily if you don't want to get that initimate with your vette. However, this project will get you comfortable with your car and you will really feel great when you complete it. I have done an EGR as part of an injector replacement and felt great about how everything turned out and my confidence soared.


I don't think it's a $$$ call as much as a "how you want to own your vette" call. Both are fine but doing it yourself is far more fulfilling. Biggest draw back is you'll fall in love with your vette And then it's real hard to part with.....
Old 08-20-2006, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER


Also, just use a set of "crow foot" wrench sockets on the two EGR hold down bolts once the plenum is off, and it becomes child's play.


YESSSS!!!!! I love these. A must have for every mechanic!


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