Installing new Bilstein shocks
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 177
Likes: 14
From: Plano TX
Installing new Bilstein shocks
OK, I figure since my '88 has been riding on the same shocks for the past 18 years and 68kmiles, and I'm noticing some frontend bottoming out, I feel it's time to replace all 4 shocks. Just ordered 4 Bilstein HDs. They should be here by mid week.
Question: How difficult is it to replace the 4 shocks? Should I tackle it myself, or have it done at a local shop?
I searched the tech section, and it sounds fairly straight-forward, but some have mentioned a change in ride height (sitting too high) if using jacks to raise the vehicle. Do you have to raise the vehicle to change all shocks? The fronts look simple enough to change out without removing the tires at all. Not sure about the rears.
Any info on this matter would be a huge help. I'm wanting to get this done this weekend!
thanks,
Chris
Question: How difficult is it to replace the 4 shocks? Should I tackle it myself, or have it done at a local shop?
I searched the tech section, and it sounds fairly straight-forward, but some have mentioned a change in ride height (sitting too high) if using jacks to raise the vehicle. Do you have to raise the vehicle to change all shocks? The fronts look simple enough to change out without removing the tires at all. Not sure about the rears.
Any info on this matter would be a huge help. I'm wanting to get this done this weekend!
thanks,
Chris
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,705
Likes: 30
From: Chesapeake Beach Maryland
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
Chris,
If you have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) or at the very least a Haynes manual for your year Vette, the shocks will be no problem to remove and replace. If I recall you will need to jack up the lower control arm up front to compress the shock, but my brain is fuzzy. I just did this last year, you would think I could remember what I did. Also the rears are easy, but they too will need to be compressed to remove. But this should not be too difficult even compressing them by hand is easy enough.
don't pay some guy $150 to do this job. It is a good starter job for new Vette wrenchers.
Good Luck
Don Haller
Severn, Maryland
If you have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) or at the very least a Haynes manual for your year Vette, the shocks will be no problem to remove and replace. If I recall you will need to jack up the lower control arm up front to compress the shock, but my brain is fuzzy. I just did this last year, you would think I could remember what I did. Also the rears are easy, but they too will need to be compressed to remove. But this should not be too difficult even compressing them by hand is easy enough.
don't pay some guy $150 to do this job. It is a good starter job for new Vette wrenchers.
Good Luck
Don Haller
Severn, Maryland
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
I just did it a few weeks ago. The wheel has to come off, that is not a good shortcut. The car has to be jacked up and a second jack is needed to move the control arm & assembly around to get the angle the slip it out. The second jack also helps to line up holes top and bottom. Do one wheel at a time.
The lower bolt on the rear shocks will be pretty tight. You will probably need a big breaker bar at least. All other bolts no problem and the job really is fairly simple with proper tools.
The lower bolt on the rear shocks will be pretty tight. You will probably need a big breaker bar at least. All other bolts no problem and the job really is fairly simple with proper tools.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 737
Believe me, if you can change oil in your Corvette, you can replace the shocks. I have to do all my work in a gravel driveway. So, I took my chainsaw and carved up large oak trunk to make a sturdy block on which to rest the Corvette frame after I jacked it up with a jack. Once the frame was resting on the large oak block, this freed up the jack to use to manipulate the rear axle so I could easily remove the old shock and line up the new shock with the holes. It was kind of fun doing this.
It beat the heck out of going to a national chain. A few years ago, I took my Nissan to a national chain to get new shocks. I waited for an hour while they had my car. Finally, they said my car was ready. I paid the fee. Before driving away, I wanted to see what the new shocks looked like, you know, whether they were red or green or yellow. I bent down and looked and found that my car still had the old, half rusted shocks.
I went back to the cashier and asked him to take a look at the "new shocks" on my car. They took my car back to the bay and put the new shocks on very quickly and gave me a 50 percent discount. Now I install my own shocks. It just seems better that way.
It beat the heck out of going to a national chain. A few years ago, I took my Nissan to a national chain to get new shocks. I waited for an hour while they had my car. Finally, they said my car was ready. I paid the fee. Before driving away, I wanted to see what the new shocks looked like, you know, whether they were red or green or yellow. I bent down and looked and found that my car still had the old, half rusted shocks.
I went back to the cashier and asked him to take a look at the "new shocks" on my car. They took my car back to the bay and put the new shocks on very quickly and gave me a 50 percent discount. Now I install my own shocks. It just seems better that way.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 21
From: Denville NJ
I encountered a small glitch replacing the shocks on my '86 which you may or may not encounter with yours. I have a base suspension '86 so it didn't have Bilstein shocks. Since I replaced the shocks with Bilsteins, here is the minor glitch I had. When I attempted to install the front shocks, I couldn't fit the torx socket between the top stem and the plastic dust shield at the top of the shock tower. This prevented me from being able to hold the stem while tightening the top nut. I'm sure there are some that removed the shield but I simply drilled a hole large enough to fit the torx socket through so I could hold the stem while turning the nut. Again, this might not be the case with your install but I just wanted to throw it out there. BTW, all four shocks can be done in less than an hour with the proper jack and stands. Real easy job, hardest part is the jacking and the bottom nuts on the rear shocks.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
I agree with Chris. Otherwise....
Descriptions above make it sound harder than I remember on my '89. I don't think I removed the wheels (on the front). I think I used a single jack. I also think the wheel raised off the ground as I tightened the shock nut. (I thought this was a little unusual. But I might be remembering wrong).
It wasn't hard. If you're a DIYer, you'll be fine.
Descriptions above make it sound harder than I remember on my '89. I don't think I removed the wheels (on the front). I think I used a single jack. I also think the wheel raised off the ground as I tightened the shock nut. (I thought this was a little unusual. But I might be remembering wrong).
It wasn't hard. If you're a DIYer, you'll be fine.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Nov 7, 2006 at 01:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 177
Likes: 14
From: Plano TX
Thanks everyone for the words of advice and encouragement.
I have the FSM (its for an 89 though, but figure same rules apply). It makes it sounds simple in there also - raise the car, remove the wheels, remove the nuts and bolts holding the shock, remove shock. Install in reverse order. It does mention the rear bottom nuts may be very tight.
Looking forward to tackling this job - and hopefulling enjoying the way the car feels.
thanks again - will give you an update next week.
Chris
I have the FSM (its for an 89 though, but figure same rules apply). It makes it sounds simple in there also - raise the car, remove the wheels, remove the nuts and bolts holding the shock, remove shock. Install in reverse order. It does mention the rear bottom nuts may be very tight.
Looking forward to tackling this job - and hopefulling enjoying the way the car feels.
thanks again - will give you an update next week.
Chris
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
It would be a good idea to apply some penetrating oil to the threads around the nuts before starting. Do one application the day before and another one before you start. Might make it easier to remove the nuts.
When you tighten the rear lower shock mounting nuts, place a jack under the control arm knuckle and raise it up to where the car just lifts off the jack stand on that side. Then tighten the lower nut to 60 ft-lbs. The FSM says that the suspension has to be at ride height when tightening that nut.
When you tighten the rear lower shock mounting nuts, place a jack under the control arm knuckle and raise it up to where the car just lifts off the jack stand on that side. Then tighten the lower nut to 60 ft-lbs. The FSM says that the suspension has to be at ride height when tightening that nut.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Gap PA
I just got new Bilsteins as well. They didn't come with instructions however and I am confused as to how the rubbers go on the front. There is two washers, a hard rubber puck and a softer rubber puck.
What is the order, bottom to top that these go on?
Does anyone have a picture?
Does one rubber go on one side of the mount and the other rubber on the other?
What is the order, bottom to top that these go on?
Does anyone have a picture?
Does one rubber go on one side of the mount and the other rubber on the other?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Gap PA
Ya.
Thats how I put it on. Hard puck on top and soft on the bottom.
You guys are right, they do lift the tire up a bit when you tighten them.
I will also second the having to drill a hole to get to the top of the bolt with an alan wrench.
Got the tires back on after changing the emergency brake shoes....time to go drive before the snow flies.
Thats how I put it on. Hard puck on top and soft on the bottom.
You guys are right, they do lift the tire up a bit when you tighten them.
I will also second the having to drill a hole to get to the top of the bolt with an alan wrench.
Got the tires back on after changing the emergency brake shoes....time to go drive before the snow flies.
