pipe

Just wanted to know if any of you guy's swapped your Crossfire Injection over to a Tuned Port Injection set up and what problems you ran into? Will I need to change the Fuel Pump? And who re did your wiring harness? Also any other problems you might have run into that will help me with this swap. THANKS FOR THE HELP Pipe

JLeatherman

You're gonna open up a big can of worms when some members like CFI-EFI find this post. I'll go ahead and ask the obligatory question: Why do you want to convert your car to TPI?

LS6 Motor

why?? If they are set up correctly, there is little, or no gain going to a TPI setup. However, you wallet will certainly get lighter.........

JLeatherman

Man, that's high praise from someone who doesn't even own a Crossfire. Most of the @$$holes who talk to me about my car think they are clever to throw "cease-fire" into the conversation, as though I've never heard that one. It's not nearly as bad of a system as people think, and with modern tuning technology and new manifold options it is certainly comparable to TPI whether you're keeping your motor stock or modding it.

pipe

I know CFI-EFI is a stoudt believer in the Crossfire system and has answered many of my questions allready. The reason for this is that I have all the parts TPIS Mini Ram, Injectors, Big Throttle Body, Fuel Rails and most other stuff to make the swap except stuff like the wiring harness, ECM and different throttle cable and trans cable and such. THANKS FOR THE REPLY'S GUY'S Pipe

LS6 Motor

Correction, I did have a Crossfire, actually, two of them. One was on a 1982 Corvette, and the other was on a 1983 Z28. They were dependable units, and I never had a problem with either one. The Vette is still local, and the last time I saw it, the individual still hasn't had a single problem with it.

Random84

Been there, done that - and I still have the greasy T-shirt.

Regardless of the CFI vs TPI debates.... (and I switched because I perceived it to be easier to upgrade in the future - and I needed a hobby): here's the brass tacs:

You'll need a ECM and wiring harness - I recommend 1989 because of the MAF (more forgiving on your "tune") and the deleted cold start injector. You will need a 1985+ fuel pump and flexible line that extends from the hard lines on the chassis up to your fuel rail. I went braided stainless so it would be more durable and easier to fabricate ($$$ though). You'll also run into the odds and ends like swapping thermostat housings and deleting the AIR pump to allow for the TPI throttle body (you just need a shorter serpentine belt, I believe 85"). EDIT: didn't catch the MiniRam part until later. Sure a speed-density system will be fine, but I strongly suggest going aftermarket and using whatever works best with the system you select (likely will be SD).

THe TPI conversion IS nice if you want to go to a superram/miniram or forced induction later on (yeah yeah yeah, you can do FI with CFI but it's not as "bolt on"). And in retrospect - I would give HEAVY consideration to bypassing the OEM wiring harnesses and ECMs and spend the money for a stand-alone engine programmer like Edlebrock or Accel offers; you're going to spend just as much repairing an OEM harness and buying the software, hardware and patience to learn on the OEM stuff. Prepare to lose a few of your dash readouts in either case... unless you want to spend a few days splicing wires and flipping through manuals. For the record, I had "chevythunder.com" do my harness - and they did a great job - but the harness itself is still 20 years old and many of the pigtails are loose; I've had my share of electrical gremlins because of this. I digress: get a new stand-alone harness and live without the MPG readout!

I'll keep it simple for now - email or post back for more questions. But it's basically your typical motor install in addition to whatever engine management system you choose.

bogus

if you need TPI style flexible fuel lines, I have both.

The harness will be a bitch. It's integrated into the dash... just warning you on that on.

pipe

That's my main concern right now the Wiring Harness. I E Mailed one company about the harness conversion and their reply was sure we do it for $1,300 aggggggggggggggh

FD2BLK

Call Jims Performance about the harness conversion, He can make a Three Wire hook up that will be make the swap fairly simple to hook up. The real question that needs to be asked is what is your end goal? A TPI conversion will allow you the options of Mini-Ram, Super-Ram, or Single plain if you are looking for big power. If you are just trying to make a fairly quick car, say mid to low 13's for a daily driver then you would be much better off sticking with the cross-fire system and taking the time to learn a little about your current system. I see a lot of people who are willing to scrap the crossfire system because they have a lack of knowledge about it but think the solution is to swap to an entirely new fuel injection system they also know nothing about.

CFI-EFI

I see I have to give an explanation or two, here. While I own, operate, and promote the Crossfire, I am not unrealistic about it's pitfalls. Also, I am not in awe of the TPI. Technically, the TPI is way ahead of TBI, single or dual. But performance-wise The TPI is marginally, at best, better than the Crossfire. A conversion to a TPI is a waste of time and money, as there is little if anything to be gained for all the cost and effort. HOWEVER, that said, Pipe should have explained his project a little more thoroughly in his opening post. In MY mind, a swap to a Mini Ram or Super Ram is a whole other subject. Now, THERE is some performance potential. THAT isn't the waste of resources that going to a stock TPI is.

Pipe,
You are going to need a later, higher pressure fuel pump. It will swap right into the stock location, just like it belonged. It may be cheaper to buy a good used wiring harness for the year car your manifold is closest to. There is no need to give up any of the dash functions, other than the mpg display.

RACE ON!!!

RACE ON!!!

bogus

A later harness, used, is going to cost about $500.00...the labor to extract is nothing short of a bitch.

And make sure you get a harness from a NON-C68 car... the climate controls will make a mess of things for you...

VtVette

Pipe - I have a '85 I bought as a basked case last fall. The wiring was all hacked up. The car had stand alone managment so most of the engine harness was gone. I bought a complete harness headlight to taillight out of a 1986 from a member of the forum from Texas. Swapped in the entire harness. This winter I am going to swap in a 1990 interior so I am buying a 1990 dash, dash harness, and engine harness.

This means I am going to be selling my '86 dash, wiring harness, engine harness and ECU. The harness I have has manual heater control like your '84. The forum member I am buying the interior from is giving me a hell of a deal so I will pass the deal on to you. I will sell you as much or as little as you want.

The thing to do would be to get the engine and dash harness and set it out on the bench then decide if you want to splice the engine harness into your dash harness or swap out the entire dash/engine harness.

I know this is not the for sale/wanted section but this might really help you out. Let me know if you are interested.

Random84

I still recommend going after-market engine management....

VtVette

It's a great alternatve but it's a classic case of you get what you pay for. At work we use Haltech and Motec systems. Both are fantastic systems. For less money you can go with Autronic. The systems run from a couple thousand and up. I don't personally see the point on a N/A engine unless you are constantly swapping cams, injectors, etc. Get yourself a proper engine setup and a good chip burn to match your setup and you are set.

The cars at work are Turbocharged. We run anywhere from 15 to 30+ pounds of boost, and at varying elevations and with open, 32 and 40mm restrictors. Many variables. We have dozens differnet maps we run at varyous times. Forced induction is where after market managment really shines.

pipe

CFI-EFI by no means was I trying to cut on the CFI System or you. I have asked many questions on here and get lots of good info and respect anyone's reply to help me and I thank each and everyone of you for the help. I guess I need to tell you some more info on the car and set up. I have the 84 car and i'm going to use it for the Drags and some minor street use. I built a 383 with a lightweight Lunati crank and 6 inch Carillo Steel Rods. The Block has been drilled and tapped for Billet Splayed Steel Caps and Aligned Bored. It also has Forged Wiesco Pistons and is 0 Decked and the Rotating assy. is Balanced with the ATI Balancer and SFI Flexplate. Up on top it has Brodix Track 1 Heads that have been CNC Ported and polished by Slawko Racing Heads with Manley Stainless Steel Valves 2.08 and 1.60 with Jesel Shaft Rockers then the Mini Ram, big throttlebody 26 lb. Inj. and a Howards custom ground cam 278/278-duration and 574-574-lift 112 lobe sep. It would be a pretty wild car on the street. So I'm going to try and remove the wire harness this week if I can find out how. Some of the places i've contacted wan't alot of money to rework the existing harness so i'm trying all options. Jim's Performance seems reasonable. I think he built Wheelsup and Hookedup's car's AGAIN THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUY'S Pipe

Pete K

Bill,
Sounds like you are building a nice package. I will see you at the Grove next season. I plan to get out more.
I wounded my current motor and plan to step it up a wee bit.

pipe

Thanks Pete i'll either see ya at Maple Grove or have to come see you at Numidia on Friday nights. By the way Pete one of these days Opey and me are gonna come visit ya. Pipe

dagrump

i did the same swap a few years ago. i felt it wasn't very complicated. give howell engine developments a call. they can rework your exsisting harness and retain all dash functions. they will also supply you with a 90-91 speed density computer. the fuel pump is a easy swap. the fuel lines i did with stainless braided lines. other than modifiying the air pump bracket, it's pretty much straight forward. you'll also have to change the knock sensor. if you have any questions just IM me. good luck with the swap.