86 Vats Keeping Me Out
#1
Racer
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86 Vats Keeping Me Out
I replaced the heater core on my 86 automatic and by doing so i ripped out the entire dash!! I disconnected alot of stuff with the battery disconnected. I intalled the computer and the instrument cluster then reconnected the computer. I then put a small two volt charge on the battery because it was dead from sitting for weeks. The car still wouldnt turn over and I saw the Security light flashing even after i took the key out. Im assumming I tripped the computer but I installed a VATS bypass unit i bought off of Ecklers or some vette website. I waited for about half hour and it wouldnt turn over. Then waited an hour. still no luck. The gauges light up and the fuel pump pressurizes but it wont turn over. I see no Check engine light on but maybe that only goes on after car is started...maybe..i dont know. Did i forget an important plug or something? Anyway to test to see what it is? I have my factory manual but i cant seem to find a troubleshooting for VATS. I also have both door panels off and i noticed a small black wire on the passenger side door panel broken off. I think it comes from the window wiper. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!
#3
Race Director
I think on the 86 and up,the vats module is located behind the famous bread box dash piece on the passenger side..is this hooked up or did you forget to plug it in?
#4
- 1986 Original Owner -
Paul,
We're going to need more info. Bill has a very good point. Depending on what you mean by "i ripped out the entire dash", it could be that the VATS Module is not connected or the Start Enable Relay behind the Driver Information Center is not installed. The VATS Bypass only bypasses the Key, Ignition Cylinder Contacts and the wiring from the Contacts down the Column to the connecter where the Bypass is installed. The VATS Module still needs to be connected. The Security Light is for the Alarm System and will flash anytime a door is opened and ignition off without arming the alarm. It is not connected to your VATS, forget about it. The "small two volt charge on the battery" is worrying. I'd charge it overnight or try a fully charged battery. Do you hear a click from the Start Enable Relay when trying to start?
We're going to need more info. Bill has a very good point. Depending on what you mean by "i ripped out the entire dash", it could be that the VATS Module is not connected or the Start Enable Relay behind the Driver Information Center is not installed. The VATS Bypass only bypasses the Key, Ignition Cylinder Contacts and the wiring from the Contacts down the Column to the connecter where the Bypass is installed. The VATS Module still needs to be connected. The Security Light is for the Alarm System and will flash anytime a door is opened and ignition off without arming the alarm. It is not connected to your VATS, forget about it. The "small two volt charge on the battery" is worrying. I'd charge it overnight or try a fully charged battery. Do you hear a click from the Start Enable Relay when trying to start?
#7
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
the ONLY thing your Ecklers "vats bypass" does is eliminate the lock cylinder portion of the system. There are still the Start Enable Relay and the fuel injector pulse in the computer.
If it won't even crank, Check the start enable relay next. Its a simple bypass if you want to test it. The module is like $12, or a free fix if you just clip two wires and connect them together.
This is what was bad on mine about 6 months after I bypassed the lock.
If it won't even crank, Check the start enable relay next. Its a simple bypass if you want to test it. The module is like $12, or a free fix if you just clip two wires and connect them together.
This is what was bad on mine about 6 months after I bypassed the lock.
Last edited by GIJoe; 11-20-2006 at 11:19 AM.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by bogus
I think im going to get a domain just for that thing heh. vatssucks.com or something would ring a nice bell