puck

Recently I've changed the radiator with a heavy duty one, the temperature switch, the fan relay, etc. The fan comes on when it supposed to and all. Here is the scenario...

On the highway the coolant temp will stay around 205-215 during the day, or around 200 at night. Between lights and the such however, it can get up to 230, the fan will come on, and although it doesnt go past 250, it gets that high and then starts going down and the such. That part i'm not THAT worried about [although I am].

Now the thing that frightens me is how high the oil temp gets. On the highway it reached 260 one time [and thats with me not pushing her that hard]. Normal driving between lights and the such itll stay around 230 or so.

Any ideas/suggestions/whatever, please help!!
-Steve

vader86

that is kinda warm if you have your fans set to come on early (around 190 is good i thnk) Do you have a 160 thermo? If you dont then you definitely need one. Also, make sure youre running synthetic oil, it wont cook like regular oils. If your car has only a stock fan setting, then you need to upgrade that to come on at a lower temperature.

jackdaroofer

:cheers:

Sounds like you have covered a lot of the bases, but I agree that temps especially oil are too high. that's my opinion

Given that it is an 84, nothing against that, it might be possible that you have blockage internally in water passages, either block or heads...or hoses that have collapsed internally.

I don't know of a good way, a really good way, to check flow for restrictions. One of those flush kits might help to see if you are getting sufficient water flow.

Generally oil temp seems to run 20 degrees higher than water temp + or -, so high water temp could explain high oil temp

Sorry I can't point you to a direct answer

Jack

Speed-Racer

Oil Cooler solved my LT1 issued.
Speed-Racers.com/main.html


George

KYVette90

Get a 180 degree thermostat, and a low temp fan switch kit from Eckler's. I did this and also removed and cleaned my radiator and the car now runs around 175 constantly. The temps you have described will cook your oil onto the internals of your engine. :cheers:

puck

I've posted before about an oil-cooler for my L83, are there any places out there make one for my particular engine? I'm good with a wrench, but i'd feel better having someone that knows their way around engines to install it. I know someone that will, but its the issue of finding an oil cooler and all the fittings I need for it. Know of a place?

Thanks man!
-Steve

SunCr

I was going to say that, with all that you've done, your coolant temps should be much cooler. However, I don't think you're running much higher than what other Corvettes experience. Also, when you say you added a "Heavy Duty" radiatory, did it increase capacity or was it just made of different (and hopefully better) materials? Without any increase in capacity, I doubt you will see much lower temps (unless the old radiator was really clapped out or partially blocked). I would verify the accuracy of the dash readout with a scanner. It'll probably be a few degrees different because the inputs are from different sensors; however, if the scan shows a much lower temp, then it's either the cluster or the temp sending unit. Also, make sure that your EGR is fuctioning. EGR cools combustion gasses and helps bring down highway temps. Finally, make sure all of the air is out of the system and the overflow is at the correct level. When filling the radiator, you need to keep the engine at about 1500 rpm (after the thermostat opens) and then fill to the top of the filler neck. Even after that, you may still have to add some more coolant, after the next couple of trips, to get it completely full. Also, on an '84, I believe you have a heater control valve. If so, it's probably best to have the heater on when you fill. If you didn't replace the radiator cap, you might want to do so now. As to the oil temp, 230 doesn't seem out of line, but 260 is high. The sender may be shifting in value (though I think they usually suffer a hard failure; ie, no read out at all) but you could try replacing it. Finally, assuming the gauges are normal and the EGR is working correctly, you may have blocked internal passages and a visit to a radiator shop for a pressure test and a system flush might be worth the money.

AquaMetallic94LT1

I know a lower temp thermostat was mentioned by yours might need to be changed. I wonder if waterpumps can fail internally to cause this problem without losing coolant.

onedef92

Yes, they can. Forum member KLO told me his water pump failed on his Chevy SS and it never leaked one drop of coolant from the weep hole! :chevy