VetNutJim

Question....... or two......or five

(1) What does synthetic oil do with the carbon particles, raw gas and other particulate matter (dust, dirt) that makes it way past the rings and into the oil?

(2) Does it absorb, assimilate and make it go away better than regular oil?

(3) What about the inevitable wear particles that are dispersed throughout the oil as a result of the friction of moving parts?

(4) Does synthetic oil have some 'self cleaning' chemicals in it that keeps it from getting contaminated by the same things that cause other oils to need changing?

B!@cK 86 V3tt3

LTxDave

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/basic_...ion_design.htm

EvanD

B!@cK 86 V3tt3 what happened to your avitar photo, it was a cool one....

Bluewasp

I switched to Penn racing oil...

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

VetNutJim

Ok, I read 'Bob the oil guys' article.
What I gather from 'Bob the oil Guy' is all oils are a blend of numerous base, detergent, anti-foaming, etc, etc. ingredients.

But how does Mobil1 or any other synthetic oil keep from being contaminated by the mere use of the engine?

Doesn't ALL oil have to meet API, SAE and ILSAC standards before it can be 'approved' for use in our engines?

Back to synthetic, what makes it ok to stay in the engine for extended mileage periods?
What about my original questions?

LTxDave

VetNutJim,

All the answers to your questions are readily available on the internet. Oil is 'contaminated' when it is poured into an engine. What do you think the filter's purpose is? There are additives in ALL oils to remove neutralize acids from blowby. I'm not going to argue with you on this or any other matter. I posted the previous link because it appeared you had genuine questions and you could learn a good bit from that entire website. It is apparent that you just want to argue and throw out the rolleyes smilie. Do your own research and make your own conclusion. I have researched the matter and find time is better spent doing something than changing synthetic oil at 3000 miles.

CentralCoaster

I wouldn't use 0w oil unless you live on the north pole. It's thinner at startup, maybe too thin. 0w20 is used in some new cars now for fuel economy, but it's very thin oil and doesn't provide as much protection if you like to lay the hammer down.

AKS Racing

We own vettes, therefore, we must lay the hammer down ... often!

EvanD

The reason that synthetics last longer is they don't shear like dino oil. The faster an oil breaks down the sooner it must be changed. The oil does two things, it lubricates and as it moves through the "system" it moves dirt, grime, and contaminants along with it. When the oil goes through the filter the dirt, grime, and contaminants(most of them) are filtered out. The thinner the oil the better until it's so thin it is not lubricating. My 2 cents.... most of this my father taught me many years ago....

Oils are rated to meet different standards. Just because they meet a standard doesn't make them better. There are a lot of standards for a lot of things out there, not just oil. I ride a motorcycle and there are standards for helmets, just because a manufacturer hasn't had their helmet inspected to meet the standard doesn't mean that it won't. Also there are different standards in different countries sometimes standards that appear to be the same aren't. Also since the standards are set by the oil companies they are going to set standards they can meet. Also lately there are requirements that oils are less polluting or have other requirements, that doesn't mean they are better at lubricating, which is the main purpose of the oil.

VetNutJim

Wellllll....I've done little "Research" on oil.
But it may be more important to do some thinking when it comes to engines and oil.
Thinking is free. Actually one of the last freedoms King Goerge hasn't taken away from us, yet.

In that vein, here's ANOTHER question folks.

Particularly you DAVE. Oh Daaaaaveeeee.....

(1) Is the oil filter and oiling system on our engines a 'Full Flow' type of system as far as the filter is concerned?

And, Dave, instead of being so testy, why don't you simply explain away the concerns expressed as simple questions.
The purpose of them is to spur folks that haven't THOUGHT about these things yet to, maybe, spend a little of THEIR time thinking about it????????????

It appears you don't have time to be thinking about the 'oil subject' so would you kindly refrain from being such a butt while the rest of us discuss it?

Back to those original questions I posted earlier.........

LTxDave

YOU are being the ***. ALL I DID WAS TRY TO HELP YOU GET SOME INFORMATION THAT I THOUGHT YOU GENUINELY WANTED. What do I get for that? SMART *** COMMENTS FROM VETTENUTJIM. Apparently what you want is to argue. I have better things to do with my time than argue with you.

rick lambert

I've run dino in all my cars accept the Focus..which came new with a blend. I'm also an old school guy, for most of my driving life I changed oil every 3000, that has changed since all I've read in the past few years says 5000 is fine for dino. True synthetics handle more heat..if memory serves correct 300*, whereas dino 250-260 range, and synthetics do have better cleansing actions and supposedly can go 9000-10000 between changes. My question is why use synthetic if you're gonna change it every 3000-4000 miles, to me that a waste of money.

EvanD

VetNutjim, whats up forget to take your happy pill? Acting like this will get you no answers...

rocco16

Perhaps I can help with your questions:

Larry
code5coupe

Mrs. glass car

There was an article in corvette fever magazine in 92 or 93 that discussed why GM went to synthetics with the LT-1. The main reason given in that article was that the synthetic could handle higher oil temps, for a longer period and still provide protection against engine wear. This saved GM from having to provide an oil cooler to handle the output of the LT-1. GM ran side by side comparisions between Mobil-1 and another top shelf brand of dino- oil. After running idientical engines on the bench the equivalent of 150,000 miles, ( I don't remember the exact number, but it was a lot of miles), the teardowns showed minor wear on the engine with the conventional oil and, no measureable wear on the engine using the Mobil-1.
Don't beat me up on the details of the above as it was 14 years ago and I'm old, but the point still stands: GM did a lot of research before they jumped.
As to oil viscosity numbers, I have been using the light wt 5/30 synthetics since they came out in the late 70's in all of my new cars. I would drive a new car home, drain out the factory oil and refill with Mobil-1 and new filter, even though the owners manual would state to use 10/30wt. In 99 I bought a new Mercedes, drained out the factory 10/30 and switched to 0/30 Mobil -1. The service tech spotted me purchasing a new oil filter, and asked what was wrong since he knew that I just bought the car a day before. When I told what I was doing he had a minor fit telling me that the factory wouldn't back my car using synthetics, not to mention 0/30wt.
Six months latter buying another oil filter at the Mercedes dealership that same service rep stoped me and told me that the factory had instructed them to use Mobil-1 0/40wt in all oil changes.
As most of you have guessed by now I'm a fan of synthetics. I change oil every year or 5,000 miles in the Mercedes 0/40wt.The corvette gets every 3,000 miles or once a year on 0/30wt.
I'll let everyone know when either of them blow up.