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hi there guys,
just want to hear from any one that has upgraded the plenum to top runner stud fastners instead of the old bolt/nut combination!
the tech guy at "accel" mentioned that i could add the 16 screw in studs x 1 1/4" long stud bolts with 1/4" 28 on one end and 1/4" 20 on the other end and then get the locking nuts to suit!
where can i buy these studs from?
it would make it easier to install the plenum box to the top runners wouldnt it?
Mine must have been threaded before I purchased it. I have no nuts. the plenum box is threaded on the holes for the runners to screw into from below, and the upper pie plate lid screws down tight into threaded holes of the plenum with small button head screws to screw down tight. It is a relatively painless operation other than a small wrench and good access to tighten .
Here's a pic that I posted a while back while doing a test fit before the installation with studs and kep nuts:
If you run a search, you should be able to find my original post with the stud part numbers etc. They are an Auveco part.
i sent sxyvet the pm u sent me, after a month and calling Accel 4 times i got the gaskets in to put the intake back on, originally i ordered the gaskets from a 3rd party company and some of the gaskets were left out, after 3 shipments of the wrong gaskets i finally got the right ones today so im going to put the intake back on tomarrow.....hope it helps sxyvet it sure helped me....
hi tequilia and grtwht91,
thanks guys!
i looked on the www.nutsandbolts.com website and thanks to mark (grtwht91) for the part number i finaly found them!
part number is 9668.
come in packet of 10 for $11.01.
here is what they have them listed as
1/4" -28 sae x 1/2"/ 1/4" -20 uss x1/2".
is this the correct ones i need please above?
yeah those guys at accel are slack man for sure,i have wrang/emailed them several occasions!
still waiting,still waiting!
the guy at accel who mentioned this mod never mentioned when he gave me the the stud specs that it was "SAE" x 1/2" or the uss part!
its all new to me guys i guess!
thanks alot guys!
cheers
have a good weekend!
glen
I picked out all the bolt holes that were difficult to access and installed Heli-Coils in the holes of the RUNNERS. Then I drilled out those corresponding (threaded) holes in the UPPER PLENUM, slightly larger for clearance to ensure alignment (because so many holes need to 'line up' all at once). Now you can use button-head allen bolts/screws going down through the inside of the UPPER, screwing directly into the RUNNERS.
I did this on an IROC several years ago, so I cannot remember the bolt sizing and matching Heli-Coils that I used. I would guess it was 1/4" X 28, or 5/16" X 24, or maybe something metric inbetween.
It worked slick!
My only concern were the 4 inner runner bolts. I tapped the runners for 5/16" studs. The holes in runner are too big for a full thread cut, but since I was using a nut on the under side of runner flange, it was no big deal. On the plenum side, I used locktite and wire.
My only concern were the 4 inner runner bolts. I tapped the runners for 5/16" studs. The holes in runner are too big for a full thread cut, but since I was using a nut on the under side of runner flange, it was no big deal. On the plenum side, I used locktite and wire.
Why not tap the runner holes and bolt the plenum down from the top?
I will look for some pics, as I have sold both of the SRs that I had modified. I welded up the runner holes (just the middle two on each runner) and then drilled and tapped the runners for 1/4" x 20 bolts (same as original bolt size), then I drilled out the plenum holes to a "slightly" larger hole and countersunk the hole. All of this needs to be done before doing anything to the plenum (use plenum holes as the guide for the new runner holes). I then installed countersunk allen bolts that went flush with the floor of the plenum.
Key here is to modify the runners first, before you drill out the plenum so they are in exactly the right spot.
Oh, and I also used RTV on the underside of the allen countersink just for a bit of extra insurance against any leaks. It worked well for me for years.
"jrzyvet" has one of the SR units now, so maybe he will comment.
Why not tap the runner holes and bolt the plenum down from the top?
I wanted studs to help locate the plenum during install. Turns out it was a good plan as my runner flanges both had bows. Not sure if this happened during my powder coating process or not. I was able to get a lot of clamping force with the studs and take the bow out of flanges.
I wanted studs to help locate the plenum during install. Turns out it was a good plan as my runner flanges both had bows. Not sure if this happened during my powder coating process or not. I was able to get a lot of clamping force with the studs and take the bow out of flanges.
I don't think it was the powdercoat process, I would moreover think that it was the Accel manufacture process. Some of the later SRs have had many complaints of poor quality.
Aaron
I will look for some pics, as I have sold both of the SRs that I had modified. I welded up the runner holes (just the middle two on each runner) and then drilled and tapped the runners for 1/4" x 20 bolts (same as original bolt size), then I drilled out the plenum holes to a "slightly" larger hole and countersunk the hole. All of this needs to be done before doing anything to the plenum (use plenum holes as the guide for the new runner holes). I then installed countersunk allen bolts that went flush with the floor of the plenum.
Key here is to modify the runners first, before you drill out the plenum so they are in exactly the right spot.
Oh, and I also used RTV on the underside of the allen countersink just for a bit of extra insurance against any leaks. It worked well for me for years.
"jrzyvet" has one of the SR units now, so maybe he will comment.
Aaron
Back from the dead! pics of this would be perfect! my SR is on the way and i wont to do somthin like this!