SharkBit

Hello everyone, I done some searching on the forum tonight and kinda run into dead ends.

I have an 87 with 62000 miles. Doesnt smoke, doesnt leak. Currently the motor has valvoline 10-40 in it.

Im getting ready to change the oil in the car, should I go back with dino oil or would the change to synthetic be worth the cost? Also, would it be safe to change to synthetic after the engine has had dino oil in it for so long?

Thanks in advance.

65Z01

When I got my '88 at 96k miles I switched (??) from whatever was in it to full synthetic; it now has >176k miles with no leaks nor oil usage.

rws.1

there are 4 things that synthetic does better than dino:
1 low temperature lubrication
2. high temperature lubrication
3 extended drain interval
4. increased detergency to keep the engine clean

If any of those are important to you switch.

VetNutJim

WoooHoooo!!! Somebody that KNOWS PERZACTLY what they's talking about.

Tranzor

I use regular ol' Castrol GTX in my C4. But then again, I also don't drive it that much... maybe 3000 miles in a year, and I change the oil at least twice a year... once before racing season, once after.

If I were driving more miles and wanted an extended drain interval, I'd go with a good synthetic like Castrol Syntec, Amsoil, or Mobil 1.

ToniH

When I bought my car with 50KMiles I also switched to Mobil 1 0W-40 and later to Mobil 1 5W-50. No leaks, doesn't use a drop of oil and a healthy engine at 115K+ miles.

cv67

Man, thats at least 6 this week.

xrcrx

I've got 127k on an L83 Crossfire running 5w30 synthetic. No probs! I made the switch from the 20w50 Castrol the previous owner had been usong religiously for the last decade to 5w30 Mobil 1 at 110k miles. The car has endured much since I've owned it without a hiccup. It even showed a very slight gain in mpg after the switch.

Matt383

RollaMo-LT4

This seems to be one of those topics where there is no easy answer. Everyone has an opinion of what they believe is best.

But rws.1 gave the facts.
I always like to follow facts over opinions.

BADDUCK

Dance with the girl that brung you.

nferr

When I bought my 84 last year, the owner told me the car had been using synthetic since 91. I sure wasn't about to change now.

Doesn't burn a drop and runs really well.

SharkBit

Thanks for the information, Im gonna go synthetic in the vette, actually I may change to synthetic in both my cars, seems like the way to go. Thanks again.

89er

Synthetic oils are considerably more hygroscopic than dino oils.

If you don't drive a lot of miles and live in a high humidity area it is certainly something to be considered - particulary challenging the extended drain interval. Google for more info.

SharkBit

What about the filter? Even though the oil is designed for high mileage between changes, is the filter up to it? Do they make a certain filter just for extended intervals? Thanks

VetNutJim

The BIG TROUBLE with Mobil 1 oil is it's NOT WHAT IT USED TO BE since the start of THIS year.

I'm currently looking for a replacement for it now.

If you DON'T KNOW about the FORMULATION CHANGE in lubrication oils do a search on "ZDDP'.

The "GOOD STUFF' (for our engines) isn't in there anymore.

SharkBit

Ok, so Mobil 1 is out of the question. Whats the next best to buy? Ive seen some people run valvoline full synthetic. I run valvoline dino in my beater and its got over 205,000 with no oil consumption. Suggestions?

96 lt-4

the way i understand it is this:the reduction in zinc in the motor oils is more detrimental to engines with flat tappet cams.the risk of cam lobe failure is not as prevalent(or at all) on engines with roller tappets.
that is why many flat tappet users(myself included,big block dodge)have switched to either rotella(or similar diesel oil),which contains more zinc(even they are reducing levels)or using an additive which supplements the loss of zinc.
i have recently started using an additive from hughes engines ( www.hughesengines.com ) with regular 10w40 penzoil in my 496 bigblock dodge).
there is an imformative article on their website regarding the oil situation.

cv67

Bingo. Our gubamentisnt going to let any oil company sell oil with any "extra" good stuff if its regulated, IMO its all about the same. Eventually well all have to go roller...Its a bit of an expense, but youll never have a worry about oil.

Just pour the stuff in and drive these cars and enjoy it while we still can. Things, they are a changing.

VetNutJim

I have several flat tappet engines I plan to run for several more years.

Logically, those of us that have those engines are a very small percentage of the motoring public.

Lubricating oils that aren't particularly approved for 'general street use' are going to be what we are forced to use now.

At this point my temporary solution will be GM EOS. (Engine Oil Supplement)
EOS is available at your Chevy dealer parts counter for around $8.00.

The unknown factor is how much is adequate when mixed with 5~6 quarts of 'whatever' newer motor oil.
Is there enough wear additive to 'treat' two engines with on of those small containers?

Using the additive becomes much more palatable IMHO if it's possible to 'share' one bottle of additive between two oil changes.

The alternative is likely to be MUCH more expensive than the cost of the additive if only ONE part of the engine 'breaks down' from inadequate lubrication.

There are SEVERAL 'High Pressure' friction points in ANY of these engines (Roller Cam Engines INCLUDED) than just the cam lobe/lifter wipe point.
How about those stock rocker arms and rocker *****, there's a LOT of metal to metal contact there.
What about that timing chain and timing gears? There is extreme sliding and wiping metal to metal high pressure contact there.

Back to the lifter and cam lobe interface, there's extreme pressure at the contact of that little roller wheel and the cam lobe AND the roller wheel bearing.

Will the new oils provide enough protection to ensure the longevity of the engines we've come to expect?
Only time will tell but, in the meantime, I'm not feeling to good about becoming an involuntary guinea hog.