VinceAD

I'm getting ready to replace my rear control arm bushings with the poly type. I saw on VBP's website it says this can be done with the control arms still on the car but does not show how. Looking for any advise.

Thanks!

jfb

No way!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the original bushings could be removed easily, THEN you could replace them on the car. Factory bushings must be pressed in at the factory, but even worse, normal corrosion LOCKS those puppies in. I replaced my left side 2 weeks ago and the only way we could replace them was to use a torch and burn them out (after getting the strut off the car). Then I took the strut arm to work and cleaned the bores of corrosion and clear coated them. We even couldn't budge the outer bolt and had to use an abrasive cutoff wheel to cut the bolt between both ahead and behind the strut rod. Then we had a heck of a time trying to remove each bolt half out of the aluminum yoke bores. It was corroded/welded tight. Using an air impact wrench, back and forth over and over, with Kroil (the best penetrating oil), we finally got the bolts out. What a pain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CentralCoaster

I assume you're talking about the dog bones, that go fore-aft.

I believe you can remove the dogbones off the car simply by removing the bolt on each end of the dogbone, then just swap the bushings on your workbench/vise whatever. Doesn't get any simpler than that.

BAM92

I didn't like the idea of heating mine with a torch so I used a drill to drill the rubber around the bushings then pressed them out with a socket on my bench vise. Cleaned all the rest of the rubber out and pressed in the new ones on the vise. I actually did the whole car just using the drill, vise and large c clamp. It is alot of work but not that hard.

93 ragtop

Just drill several holes in the rubber as discribed by Bam 92. A small wire brush on a drill helps in cleaning them up after you get the old rubber out.
BTW, when you were told it could be done on the car, are you sure they were talking about the control arms or were they talking about the Batwing?

VinceAD

Thanks for the advise everyone . I'll try the drilling the hole method. I am still not sure what VBP meant by the ARM could be left on the car. I probably read it wrong.

Vince

VinceAD

I finished changing out the bushings yesterday. I drilled holes in the bushings and with the control-arm in a vise I first tapped the middle sleeve out using a socket of the same diameter as the sleeve with a hammer. After the sleeve came out I switched to a larger socket and puched out the rubber bushings. It took a few hard whacks but came out without any problems.

With 99,000 miles on my 96' LT4 I can tell a difference with the new bushings. Nothing mind blowing, but I can tell under hard accerlation there is less rear-end squat.



Vince

Klondike

I think what VBP was talking about was replacing the whole arm assy.with the new arms that have the urethane already in the ends. I just I just replaced mine today with those new ones and it wasn't a big deal. The arms are really nice and are length adjustable just by turning the rod and snugging the lock nut. I set mine to stock measurements, but I guess you could lengthen or shorten the wheelbase a little, or change caster in the rear with these, but I don't know what that would do for handling. Now I have to do alignment. (Camber & Toe-in) Greased them with Teflon grease, I Just hope they don't squeak.

Ironman1

Wow guys, I just ordered mine but I don't have a place to do the work myself. I talked with a Mechanic at West Coast corvette that said you have to heat the A arms up and at times requires a saw to cut them out. Sounds like you guys did well, especially with a vise. Good for you! Im sure this will set me back a good sum of money

Impala Balko

I did mine off the car with a rental ball joint press tool from autozone. Real easy to get them off and on... prothane bushings that I used were simple 2 piece bushings and slipped into place really easy as well

Ironman1

Looks pretty sharp! Calipers as well?