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Very nice idea on the secondary tank as well, in my 84 it drives me nuts if i try and take a hard turn, or hard acceleration with a turn, with less than a half tank of fuel.
I have had the car nearly stall in the middle of an intersection a few times...
other times i make it through only to nearly stall right as i start to straighten up.
One of these days it's going to end up getting me rearended or sideswiped...
Actually this is still old pictures. It is running right now but I have to remove the turbo for Vehicle Inspection, then I am installing a bigger wastegate in a new location.
These small block Chevy 350/400 inverted dome top pistons by SRP are made from 4032 low-expansion, high-silicon aluminum alloy that's heat-treated to SRP specifications. The ring land and crown thickness have been specifically engineered for mild turbo, supercharged, and nitrous applications. Their forced pin oiler provides increased wrist pin lubrication. A pin fitting, double Spiro locks, and a wall wrist pin are included. The CNC-machined ring grooves accept 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 rings, which are sold separately.
I wanted to build an engine with less cylinder wall side loading ( Less friction ) and that require longer rods. Higher revving engines usually user longer rod ratios. Sports bikes and F1 engines has a rod/stroke ratio of over 2:1.
302 has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.7"/3.00" = 1.9
305 has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.7"/3.48" = 1.64
327 has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.7"/3.25" = 1.75
350 has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.7"/3.48" = 1.64
400 has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.565"/3.75" = 1.484
383 short rod has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.565"/3.75" = 1.484
383 medium rod has a rod/stroke ratio of 5.7"/3.75" = 1.52
383 long rod has a rod/stroke ratio of 6.0"/3.75" = 1.6
From Google:
Most engine builders shoot for a ratio between 1.5:1 and 1.8:1 on a street motor, with 1.75:1 considered ideal, regardless of application. (The most highly developed four-stroke engines in the world-F1 and motorcycle engines-have rod ratios of more than 2:1.)
My build has a rod/stroke ratio of 6.125"/3.48" = 1.76
Just read your other threads and what (I assume) is the build on your website, was awesome to read it through and that you have so much information on your car from the beginning.
Branden, Yes, that is a recort of the transformation from stock to not so very stock.
The last thing I did before blowing up the engine was to start improving the exhaust.
I started building from the headers with 3" pipes with less bends around the transmission oilpan into a flattened 5" pipe. Then a temorary 4" on one side.
From this:
To this:
To finish the exhaust I cut the 4" pipe off and installed two 3" straight thru mufflers. I cut the tips from the old mufflers to keep the stock look.
I also made some quiet inserts for the yearly inspection.
Out with the old and in with the new. When installing the Haltech E6K and the TCI Transmission controller back 2005 I kept the stock engine harness in place and made an adapter for the Haltech. Some signals like TPS were spliced to the TCI box also. Some wires like injectors and triggers had to be wired new all the way. I had a WB lambda controller in there under the dash. I made a circuit bord with a one chip computer (PIC) to change speedo signal frequency from transmission controller to match the stock dash. When tuning both systems had a slow serial interface. It took minutes for the old DOS based laptop software to start and synchronize with Haltech.
I decided that it was time install a modern engine control system that could do everything. I removed all old wireing and reused the firewall rubber boot for the new wireing.
Old installation from 2005:
Old adapter to stock ECU connectors
Removing old stock cabling
A pile of removed stuff
New MaxxECU
I placed the MaxxECU behind the dash on the passenger side
Starting with new engine harness
New engine harness with old firewall rubber boot
New MaxxECU Traction Module. It has a lot of extra inputs and outputs and communicates with the main MaxxECU box using CAN-bus. I use this box to control the 4L80E transmission.
The downpipe starts as 4" and then became a 3.5" and 3" to fit around the transmission oil pan. The other side was connected to the wastegate. I knew that this was way to restrictive and I had a plan on how to fix this even before blowing up the engine.
I made a new lower part of the downpipe that split from 4" to two 3" and those should flow about the same. The area of two 3" is about 12% more than the area of a 4" but there is less wall friction in a 4" pipe. One pipe go under the converter so the exhaist flow can go both ways around the transmissioin oil pan.
I made a simple open exhast for the wastegate.
This is the first turbo setup. Wastegate och lower part of the downpipe was the same with the bigger turbo also.
I also played around with ignition cut during shifting to try and speed up shifting and make the life a bit easier for the transmission. This can cause some exhaust bangs and in this video is the loudest one I ever made. The phone that is filming actually shakes from the pressure wave.
During the summer 2015 the Corvette was running strong but I still had boost problems. Even with the waste gate completely closed boost maxed out at 1.2-1.3 bar ( 17 - 19 psi ). I knew that air filter location behind radiator was bad. The duct from filter to turbo was even worse. To make room for an air-duct over the radiator I mounted the radiator lower. I removed the original diagonal braces from cross member to front. I replaced them with a new support frame that goes around the radiator. I also changed the angle of radiator and intercooler to make room for new air filters in front of intercooler.
Great thread! Car sounds mean in that last video you posted! A little off topic but what electrical system did you use for the swap to your stealth ram? I have an 84 that I want to put a pro flo xt on but im not sure if an 86 vette wiring harness and ecm swap will work or not.
05-20-2017, 12:53 PM
And the stock bottom end help up well, especially considering it was a 2 bolt main.
