Id like to do this myself , but after scoping it out I think I better leave to Chevy. I cant even see the driver side of the opti wires. Passenger side looks doable but damn, I wouldnt want to be the mechanic who gets stuck with this assignment. Looks like the water pump and Alt would have to removed to even see the one side of the opti. Am I missing something here.

 

The alt. can stay right where it is, I changed mine when I did the opti mess and the waterpump was off. It really wasn't that bad, I would think if you take the air intake off and change the wires one at a time it really shouldn't be that bad.

 

It's reachable from under the car.

 

Passenger side is easier if you take off the belt tensioner and unbolt (but leave the lines on) the power steering pump.

After doing several opti-sparks in the pits @ TWS, the wires are definitely doable. Water pump and alternator can stay on.

 

Here's a re-run of a set of tech tips I posted here some time ago about changing plugs/wires on the LTx Corvette:

________________

Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips:

1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.

2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.

3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.

4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.

5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.

6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.

Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.

Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.

The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a PITA, mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing. With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.

The spark plugs on the driver's side aren't so bad, when you've got things apart to do the wires. The passenger's side, however, is not so easy. The number 8 plug in particular can be a real headache, but with good tools and enough patience, you can get it done. Because there isn’t room for a ratchet on top of the spark plug socket, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.

Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.


Be well,

SJW

 

Hell's bells! It took me nearly three hours to do the driver's side WIRES alone.

I had to remove the intake coupling, the serpentine belt, the tensioner pulley, the idler arm AND loosen the PS pump just to enter the dreaded LT1 hellhole!

Plus, I had to wait an hour for the engine to cool off. It's amazing how warm that WP manages to stay even after three hours.

And the almighty Helm's FSM? Fuggedaboutit. The book is shockingly silent when it comes to procedurally detailing how to change the plug wires.

I thought I'd stepped into the pages of a ghetto-assed Chilton's manual!

 

rofl

You make C4 tech fun OD.

 

Thanks! Yes, we can make light of it now, because we've been there. But it's not a job I look forward to tackling anytime soon.

Thank God for the clamshell hood. I can't imagine doing this on an F-body.

 

F-Body's do not have plug wires

 

What is that? 1 HP (hamster power)

 

Gringo powered.

 

Not on an LT-1 or LT-4 engined car. Cats and lower crossmember are in the way. Sure you can reach 'em, but that's all.

 

I'm surprised no ones mentioned it. I just changed the wires on my 93. To get easy access just remove inner fender liners. Makes job a lot easier!!!


Larry

 

See Post 5, Step 2...

Be well,

SJW

 

Local Chevy dealer wants over 500 just for cheap AC Delco wires installed. 3.9 hrs of labor. Wasnt sure if the 8.5 MSD wires would even fit around the motor mounts. I hung up real fast with him. That would be great if you can do it by taking fender wall off. Im in disbelief but worth a shot.

 

O.K, took the fender wall off and I could see where the wires head into the opti but no chance of getting my hand on it. God bless the guys who do this for a living.

 

They are not guys at all who do this for a living. It is a known fact that the dealers sneak in Japanese schoolgirls about 12 years old with long arms to do this work. They train from an age when most children are learning to walk and say "no". It is a modern derivative of a Shinto and Bushido technique that allows them to use a combination of telekinetics and super human finger strength. Spray a bit of carb/TB cleaner in the room and stare at the supposedly blank pages in the FSM and it will all be clear.

FWIW, I cheated on mine. I used a pair of very long (10") needle nosed pliers to push and pull the wires past the tightest spots.

 

Actually, you can remove the plug wires from the opti lying under the car. But, it is all feel, you can't see a thing.

 

Once you remove the belt and belt tensioner, and loosen the power steering pump, they aren't that bad. It takes time, sure, but there is space and it is doable.

 

That's exactly like I did mine. I also moved the ASR module for a little more room.