Door Plungers
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Az
Door Plungers
1993 Coupe. Does anyone know how to change these dang things without the inner bracket dropping down inside the door? I just did the passenger side and had to remove the door panel which turned into a major pain. It seems like they should have made the switch smaller or the hole bigger.
Thanks,
Leif
Thanks,
Leif
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 9
From: sonoma ca
Check it out cause I'm not sure it applies to 93???
check this post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...or+ajar+switch
Last edited by Red Dwarf; Aug 29, 2007 at 08:04 PM. Reason: sspacing
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Az
I'm gonna try to bend a metal coat hangar with about a 1/4" tip on the end, remove the top screw and feed it in there to hold the bracket in position, remove the bottom screw and switch and see if I can feed the new one in, replace the bottom screw, then the top one and pray this works. Any ideas? I'll let you all know how this goes.
Leif
Leif
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,340
Likes: 2,272
From: Central Maryland
Remove one of the screws. Install a longer screw in its place, but only thread it a few turns into the nut plate.
Remove the other screw, and pull the switch assembly out as far as the longer screw will allow it to go. It should now be far enough out of the way that you can now run the short screw back into the hole behind the switch, and re-engage the threads on the nut plate (run the screw through the door, but not through the switch). Now the short screw will keep the nut plate from falling.
Remove the long screw, pull the switch the remainder of the way out, and disconnect the wiring harness.
Connect the new switch, push it part-way into the hole, install the long screw through the switch and door, and thread it a few turns into the nut plate. The long screw will now hold the nut plate while you remove the short screw.
Push the switch the remainder of the way into the opening, and install the short screw into the vacant hole, then snug everything up with the short screw.
Replace the long screw with the other short screw, and you're all set.
Close the door GENTLY the first time to seat the plunger's built-in depth adjuster to the proper depth.
Be well,
SJW
Remove the other screw, and pull the switch assembly out as far as the longer screw will allow it to go. It should now be far enough out of the way that you can now run the short screw back into the hole behind the switch, and re-engage the threads on the nut plate (run the screw through the door, but not through the switch). Now the short screw will keep the nut plate from falling.
Remove the long screw, pull the switch the remainder of the way out, and disconnect the wiring harness.
Connect the new switch, push it part-way into the hole, install the long screw through the switch and door, and thread it a few turns into the nut plate. The long screw will now hold the nut plate while you remove the short screw.
Push the switch the remainder of the way into the opening, and install the short screw into the vacant hole, then snug everything up with the short screw.
Replace the long screw with the other short screw, and you're all set.
Close the door GENTLY the first time to seat the plunger's built-in depth adjuster to the proper depth.
Be well,
SJW
Last edited by SJW; Aug 29, 2007 at 04:10 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 9
From: sonoma ca
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 5
From: Charlotte NC
Remove one of the screws. Install a longer screw in its place, but only thread it a few turns into the nut plate.
Remove the other screw, and pull the switch assembly out as far as the longer screw will allow it to go. It should now be far enough out of the way that you can now run the short screw back into the hole behind the switch, and re-engage the threads on the nut plate (run the screw through the door, but not through the switch). Now the short screw will keep the nut plate from falling.
Remove the long screw, pull the switch the remainder of the way out, and disconnect the wiring harness.
Connect the new switch, push it part-way into the hole, install the long screw through the switch and door, and thread it a few turns into the nut plate. The long screw will now hold the nut plate while you remove the short screw.
Push the switch the remainder of the way into the opening, and install the short screw into the vacant hole, then snug everything up with the short screw.
Replace the long screw with the other short screw, and you're all set.
Close the door GENTLY the first time to seat the plunger's built-in depth adjuster to the proper depth.
Remove the other screw, and pull the switch assembly out as far as the longer screw will allow it to go. It should now be far enough out of the way that you can now run the short screw back into the hole behind the switch, and re-engage the threads on the nut plate (run the screw through the door, but not through the switch). Now the short screw will keep the nut plate from falling.
Remove the long screw, pull the switch the remainder of the way out, and disconnect the wiring harness.
Connect the new switch, push it part-way into the hole, install the long screw through the switch and door, and thread it a few turns into the nut plate. The long screw will now hold the nut plate while you remove the short screw.
Push the switch the remainder of the way into the opening, and install the short screw into the vacant hole, then snug everything up with the short screw.
Replace the long screw with the other short screw, and you're all set.
Close the door GENTLY the first time to seat the plunger's built-in depth adjuster to the proper depth.
I did mine carefully ('93) and never had to remove the door panels.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
From: Weston FL
1993 Coupe. Does anyone know how to change these dang things without the inner bracket dropping down inside the door? I just did the passenger side and had to remove the door panel which turned into a major pain. It seems like they should have made the switch smaller or the hole bigger.
Thanks,
Leif
Thanks,
Leif
As far as taking the screws out without having to replace the door panel, I used a paperclip. I bent one end into a small hook and inserted that into the bottom screw hole. That allowed me to hold the screw plate in place.
I know this because first I thought I had that I had a loose wire so I took the unit out to check it.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Az
I've only done the passenger side since that was the one that was fickering my lights and setting off my alarm at night. I noticed how these things self adjust and the one in the drivers door is shoved all the way in. I probably won't replace it until it starts causing problems. The plunger I removed from the passngr side was cracked where it grips the ribbing. I suspect that's why it bottomed out. BTW. This all started when my wife got pissed at me and slammed the door. Go figure. 
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
AKA 'Door Ajar Indicator Switch'
Another way of fixing the self-adjusting 'nose' on the door switches is to gently pull the 'nose' out a bit from the switch plunger and then install 2-3 very small o-rings behind it to keep the nose extended (available at your local NAPA auto parts store).
Regarding the replacement procedure, in the 94 FSM, it is in section 10-6-7 and named 'Door Ajar Indicator Switch', and matches what SJW noted above.
FYI, the switches can fail in three different ways:
1. Stick and not pop out to close the circuit when the door is opened.
2. not push in far enough to 'open' the circuit when door closed.
3. not close the circuit when door opened.
#1 above is bad as the alarm may not set and may not go off when set.
#2 above is bad as the alarm may not set and lights may flicker while driving.
#3 same as #1
And all the failure types can also screw-up the PKE operations too.
Regarding the replacement procedure, in the 94 FSM, it is in section 10-6-7 and named 'Door Ajar Indicator Switch', and matches what SJW noted above.
FYI, the switches can fail in three different ways:
1. Stick and not pop out to close the circuit when the door is opened.
2. not push in far enough to 'open' the circuit when door closed.
3. not close the circuit when door opened.
#1 above is bad as the alarm may not set and may not go off when set.
#2 above is bad as the alarm may not set and lights may flicker while driving.
#3 same as #1
And all the failure types can also screw-up the PKE operations too.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls tx
since we are on the subject...
my pke has started going nuts from time to time here lately, the stereo wont shut off when i open my door anymore and my alarm went off for no reason 2x the other day...based on what ive read in this thread am i right to assume that my switch is also starting to go to hell?