5abivt

IS it a mistake when it was BUILT to do that ? is it a mistake when the power curve reflects EXACTLY the rpms the motor was seeing? If you can't understand that this motor has some very very expensive parts all designed for the intended purpose than I don't know what is wrong with everything you input into my posts. This wasn't a stock LT1 being revved to the moon.

This motor was buils LAST YEAR in APRIL. 4 Dyno sessions in total and Countless runs on the highway since. This engine ran to 7850 rpms FLAWLESSLY until after the valve lash job. I've never been one to brag about my motor and what is in it that's why I've never mentioned details about my components. AT first I took all the responses like yours because I never gave up many details. If you read the post I've been sharing many details and maybe you'll see that this isn't just a factory stock LT1 trying to be revved to 9000 rpm.

88BlackZ-51

Is the place that built the motor going to help you cut cost on your next motor. Is the next motor going to run to 7850? My motor should be ready in 3 weeks, It "should" peak at 6300, and make 410rwhp. In my opinion reving a street driven V8 to 8000 is a little much Mike. Have you thought about this? I know who built the motor, but I wont say who.

mseven

Building a motor w/the intent of high rpm is understandable, keeping it there is another story. While it may have high buck parts in it, and you have dyno numbers that support it can run at 78, doesn't nessessarliy mean it can sustain that rpm for prolonged periods as you state w/out everything being perfect.
This is no slant at you or anyone, fact is even the cup guys snap motors, and those are made for sustained high rpm endurance. What is the cost for one that is built for that and still has no warrinty, what 50+k. The builds based on the r07 are seeming to have better results, but even an sbc 2 build will break. My point is w/a motor that is seeing hig rpm consistantly, part of the territory is possibility of parts breaking, and w/that comes additional maintenence and being on top of it.

88BlackZ-51

I agree somewhat.

Greg Gore

You have to be on top of things to run over 9000 RPM for any length of time and produce competitive power at the same time. You are talking rocker ratios over 2.0, pushrods over 1/2" in diameter and no valve lash adjusters. This kind of stuff would present a real puzzle to the average engine shop. We used to do it with cut down Honda motorcycle bearings for rod bearings until NASCAR implemented a 1.850" minimum diameter rule.

5abivt

I agree with you here. No engine is perfect and many mistakes can be made. Like having a valve lash adjustment and having a nut left loose

I also definitely agree with your last sentence. Being that I tuned my car myself I should have been on top of the wideband 'miss' i was having. coincidentally it happened right after the valve lash incident and after tearing apart the motor revealed that there was an issue with cylinder #7. I'm honestly kicking myself for it.
The point I was trying to make was that the motor was planned to spin high rpms. The first time we sat down and had a discussion it was quite funny seeing the expressions on their faces when I said I wanted it to spin 7500/8000 rpm The other point I was trying to make is the builder also knows the motor was designed to spin high and he wont deny that fact. The only real problem we have is agreeing on what caused the failure.

Rick so far the shoppe is NOT working cost wise to rebuild this motor. It is all happening out of my own pocket. I would go elsewhere but there isn't anyone i know of this side of the border I would trust. I'm not taking any shots at specific builders here because I'm sure I don't even know them all. The next build will be built for high rpms for sure. After hearing the motor sing through 7500 rpms it's the music in my ears that I crave so much. Maybe It'll blow up again who knows but it'll be what I want and thats what matters right? I'm not really trying to hide the shoppe name or who built my motor (Serge-bottom end, Ned- top end) I figured I would wait until the rebuild is over to see how it went. Perhaps the experience might shed some light for those who considered them.

BTW good luck with your build. I know you have been planning it for quite some time I'll start a new post about my new build. I'm going to try get the car up and running by november.

mseven

I get it......, what I've seen (in your pics) is using a single valve spring (appears in your pics.?) and in general valve train issues (becomes the weakest link and I don't agree w/the parts selection from the builder). If I were trying to build for that type of range, jessel shaft rockers, at least a good double coil, etc. (spring pressures, lifter choice etc. become critical). The question I would have for the builder would have been based on the selection of valve train parts. Based on what you are asking in performance, you need bullit proof.
The tuning area requires patience/time especially with what you are trying to accomplish. Gradual tweaks/monitoring and being conservative until you know you have fuel/timing etc. corrected to a resonably safe area.

rick lambert

I think you're right on as to what triggered the problem You have a great attitude. Reality is...no matter how well there built sooner or later there gonna come apart whether it's human error or metal fatique.