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Bulldog remote

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Old 09-16-2007, 06:56 PM
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Jim D
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I'm installing a bulldog remote door opener on my 87. The wiring diagram calls for 1 wire to power, and one to constant voltage. Would the power be switched ignition, what's the difference, thanks Jim.
Old 09-16-2007, 07:38 PM
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CFI-EFI
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Originally Posted by Jim D
The wiring diagram calls for 1 wire to power, and one to constant voltage.
Constant voltage IS power . By constant, I take that to mean unswitched power. If "power" means switched, they ought to say so. Is there a wiring diagram that gives you a clue? Without seeing a schematic, I don't understand why you would utilize switched power. That means you would have to manually unlock the doors and turn on the ignition to use your remote door opener. That kind of defeats the purpose, don't you think? There should be a live junction block on the firewall, behind your battery. That is where I would go for unswitched power. If there isn't such a junction block, like my car, I would go to the battery cable connection at the starter solenoid.

RACE ON!!!
Old 09-16-2007, 08:00 PM
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Da Mail Man
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Originally Posted by Jim D
I'm installing a bulldog remote door opener on my 87. The wiring diagram calls for 1 wire to power, and one to constant voltage. Would the power be switched ignition, what's the difference, thanks Jim.
.....i have one sitting in a box in the garage for 6 years...where did you find room to mount it?..at any rate it will sense any drain on the electrical such as an interior light coming on or, vibration (window smashing or paking lot bumps from other cars), or if the car is jacked up for wheel theft......you can clip it directly to the battery......
Old 09-16-2007, 10:22 PM
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labpuppy
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Constant voltage IS power . By constant, I take that to mean unswitched power. If "power" means switched, they ought to say so. Is there a wiring diagram that gives you a clue? Without seeing a schematic, I don't understand why you would utilize switched power. That means you would have to manually unlock the doors and turn on the ignition to use your remote door opener. That kind of defeats the purpose, don't you think? There should be a live junction block on the firewall, behind your battery. That is where I would go for unswitched power. If there isn't such a junction block, like my car, I would go to the battery cable connection at the starter solenoid.

RACE ON!!!
Some of these units want both the constant and the switched power. The constant for obvious reasons (unit needs to always have power). While the switched power is used to perform other functions; for example: to automatically lock the car after a certain time interval once it has been started (I personally HATE that feature and would always disable it) OR to clear the dome light once you start the car instead of leaving it on the full 30 sec (assuming the dome light feature is hooked up) OR to clear any other accessories that may have been hooked up in conjunction with the Keyless unit; it all depends on the actual unit involved and features it offers.

I recently picked up a brand new (old stock) AC Delco keyless entry that I'm going to hook up in my 88 Vert. And its harness has hookups for a constant 12V and a switched 12V (for the reasons mentioned above). So, the idea of the Keyless entry unit needing a switched 12V in addition to the constant 12V is not so "nutty" after all.


To address the original poster's question:
There are a number of spots to get the constant and the switched 12V in the car. Once I have hooked up the Keyless unit in my car, I can share on how I did it. I have a plan on how to hook it all up but want to test it out myself before advising anyone else to possibly do it that way. I'd feel a lot better once I have successfully done it on my own car. Stay tuned .....

Last edited by labpuppy; 09-16-2007 at 10:33 PM.

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