GARAGE FIND 1990 Vert HT with 384 miles
10-11-2007, 06:50 PM
#21
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I hate to say it but I have to agree about having the car towed to either the dealer or a Corvette shop. If you don't know how to get the gas tank off then this is going to be a long, painful learning experience if you try to do the work yourself. I wouldn't pay too much for it either, there is a world of difference in a car that has just sat and one that has been maintained. You will have to go through almost everything on the car. I love the color and the hardtop too. It should make a nice one!!!
10-11-2007, 07:02 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
I wouldn't agree that the car needs everything.
there may be a few consumables that are rotten......but I'd relate most everything on that car as "NOS"
ARE YOU sure you need a new gas tank?
And Yes, one more vote for telling us what the circumstances are for that thing sitting with only 400 miles on it...
there may be a few consumables that are rotten......but I'd relate most everything on that car as "NOS"
ARE YOU sure you need a new gas tank?
And Yes, one more vote for telling us what the circumstances are for that thing sitting with only 400 miles on it...
10-11-2007, 07:35 PM
#23
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The engine is not SEIZED and the tires are not dry rotted, but they do have some serious flat spots. The car would have been still under warrantee at 255 miles; my friend bought it for his wife as a wedding anniverary gift and she divorced him shortly there after. He just parked it in the garage that he never uses and tried to forget about the memory. What a bummer, right?
Last edited by blown34; 10-11-2007 at 11:15 PM.
10-11-2007, 08:00 PM
#25
Found a 1990 Corvette convert. with factory hardtop with 384 miles on it. It has been sitting in a friends garage fot the last 17 years covered in dust. I need help finding out how to get the gas tank out. I pulled the sending unit out and found a half a tank of what used to be gasoline and now is more like lacquer thinner
10-11-2007, 08:17 PM
#26
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St. Jude Donor '05
If you ever decide its more than you wanna take on let me know, Im an hour or so away, Id love to have it. 
10-11-2007, 08:31 PM
#27
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Disconnect at the fuel filter. Key on run the pump. Then suck out what is left in the bottom of the tank.
Replace fuel filter and fuel pump and change the engine oil............pray and then try starting the car
Replace fuel filter and fuel pump and change the engine oil............pray and then try starting the car
10-11-2007, 09:31 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05
Ill bet it fiires up, decent climate where he is. Chances of rust in the walls are minimized IMO.
Keep your eyes peeled for fuel leaks, those fuel rail Orings are old. Still cool to see something that age "as new" regardless.
Keep your eyes peeled for fuel leaks, those fuel rail Orings are old. Still cool to see something that age "as new" regardless.
10-11-2007, 11:11 PM
#31
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The owner is going to put it up sale when it is ready to go. As I mentioned earlier the tank has leaks and is full of rust. The flat rate book gives 7 hours to R&R the fuel tank, so although it may be easy to change it is obviously time consuming. Once I get the new fuel tank and sending unit assy., I will pull the injectors and pressure regulator, fuel manifold, filter and blow and wash out all the lines. It will be a while before I try to start the motor, since I would rather error in over kill than take a chance on screwing something up. I have already cranked the motor over by hand after pulling the plugs and lubing the cylinders. Still have to pressure flush the tranny and drain the differential, cooling system and brake fluid. Lots to do, but I'm sure it will be worth the labor of love.
10-12-2007, 06:15 AM
#33
Le Mans Master
I would expect to have to do it because of water in the cylinders when the engine was shut off, especially if the car was started to move it a little and not thoroughly warmed up. Ever wonder why you see water running off the exhaust tips when first start a cold car? Water is a byproduct of combustion. What I would actually do is pull the sparkplugs and look in the cylinders with a borescope first and be ready to pull the heads. I would not expect anyone getting the car in shape to sell to do that though. Most likely you would just try to start it and let the rings scrape the rust off the cylinder walls and let the next guy worry about it.
10-16-2007, 02:21 PM
#36
Safety Car
Great car and good luck. You seem to have a good plan and I think you may find all 8 injectors stuck closed. I have worked on a few LT1's that have sat for a couple of years and in both cases the injector were stuck closed. I was able to fix them with a test rig I made using a toggle SW. I would turn the key on to build FP then hit the toggle SW providing 12V to the injector (Other side already connected to GND) and tap them slightly until it sprayed then move on to the next one. I did this for each injector Just a note You need to pull the fuel rail (Leave all injectors in the rail) and place the bottom of the injector you are working on in a jar so fuel doesn’t spray all over the engine.
10-16-2007, 06:51 PM
#37
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Very cool car, and worth the time you're investing. How is weatherstripping? I would love some pics of the interior?????
Thanks for keeping us posted! This is a fun one to follow.
Thanks for keeping us posted! This is a fun one to follow.
