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Someone said i need anodized u-joints.I understand why being
of dissimilar metals,but is this something to worry about?? If i told
them corvette,wouldn't they come this way?Should i go with zerks
in them or none at all for strength.Standard car knowledge would say
to have grease zerks,but i want some forum input. The driveline place
said u-joints about$29 a pc. and to balance,labor,etc, approx. $110.
Turn around time about 2 hours. I guess they spin balance the
driveshaft up to 3300rpm,right in the TORQUE range. :D :D :D
Opinions please!!
Matt
Anodized U joints? Someone doesn't know what they are talking about. Are you replacing the driveshaft joints or the Half-shaft joints? Only the best go on my Vette, GMB Performance Series: http://www.gmb.net/
"Designed for High Performance, Off Road use." Zerk fittings. Lifetime Warranty. MADE IN JAPAN. Bought mine from Checker, Shucks Kragen (CSK). For '84 halfshafts: P/N 215-0178. Packed mine with Valvoline full synthetic grease. The Syntec has a lower temp rating than the Mobil One--that's more of a concern for me in Alaska.
Here's the stock Dana/Spicer joints, NO ZERK. Two seals gave out. They had 144,000 miles on them--maybe less than that, I dunno. I'm not impressed.
I have a set of Spicer forged universals without zerk fittings like scorp said. They are waiting to go in the car. They do not look like the ones pictured above. Several friends that are techs have looked at them and they look tough. Mine came from http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/
I second the suggestion for the forged, non-greasable Spicer u-joints from Toms Differential. They are great and are around $25 a piece.
And I will third it. There were a lot of broken "U" joint posts several months ago, and the consensus opinion, especially of those running modified high horsepower setups were these "U" joints.