mn_vette

Rick, are you saying that you are going to use the ASR system to activate the FWD? As the Guiness guys say.....Brilliant!

You could probably get a connector that you'd just have to disconnect the power plug to the ASR motor and plug it into your thing.

As for the Turn on/off mechanism of the FWD stuff, why not just use a transfer case from a suburban that has that auto awd stuff. My parents have one that is selectable between partial time 4wd(when slip is detected), all time 4wd, and 4wd low. That's got to be electronically controlled and shouldn't be too difficult to adapt.

I'm still wondering how much of the body I'd have to cut up to get the front driveshaft to get in there. Would we also loose the giant leaf spring up front? That might take alot of chassi mods.

chuntington101

BTF you are nuts mate! lol love it.

the quad turbos could work really well.

as for 4WD, the switchable 4WD would be great! most of the 4wd cars over here say you only really get an advantage below 100mph before the losses become to great.

keep these ideas going they are sooo cool!

Chris.

Baldturbofreak

Yea, your going to have to run coilovers. They might be included. The coilover part is a bolt on affair.
I had welded tabs to my car and used strange coilovers, but all thats really nessicary is a coilover kit for your bilsteins.

I've been looking at several transfer cases but they are all freakin' beasts as far as weight and size. I only want to cut a little if any of my floor out. so I figured my only option would be to design and build a custom case with a dry clutch and Cogbelt. 8mmPolychain can take alot of torque. If that wont do it, I'll run the calcs for the #60 or larger rollerchain to see if it will take the RPM and angular V of the largest sprockets that will fit in the tunnel.

mn_vette

Would you have to run some overly weird coil overs for this conversion? Wouldn't the halfshaft, or equivalent, be running right through the stock shock location to get to the back side of the hub?


Here's a good pic to discribe what I'm talking about.

Baldturbofreak

I wanted to try and offset it on the lower, but if nessicary we can cantilever them. a new set of uppers with the cantilever built in for example. Then they could be in the engine compartment.

Jaxian

The original poll about whether you would cut the hood to get big power from twins above the motor (1000+hp) or settle for less power (650hp) and keep the turbos under the car to keep the stock hood, here was the car I was talking about. It's twins on a 89 above the motor but without cutting the hood. It's a street car and makes 1300+hp so it would seem you can get everything you want in one package if you are willing to mess with fitment a lot. I know the thread has kind of gone in a different more speculative 'what if' direction but figured I would just wrap up that thought about the original poll for reference. Maybe give some of you master fabricators something to look at for fun.

http://www.supercars.net/garages/ChevyRocks/1v2.html

p.s. the page was really really slow loading the full screen images for me so I think you have to just kind of be patient.

Baldturbofreak

yea meany's car is well known,round these parts. He's had it done for 5-6 years now I think.
But it has pretty much nothin to do with our cars due to the 18 deg heads/no exhaust/fully custom accesory drive.

bill mcdonald

I am pretty psyched about all this. I have been thinking about it for years, but I just dont have the means to actually build something like this.

I have a 6 speed as well. L-98 though. so motor mounts should be the only difference. I plan on coilovers as well.

At one point I was wondering if another vette rear could be chopped and run up front.

Monster garage did an AWD C3, lifted though. it was linked by a chain, and if I do think the engine was pretty stout in that car.

mn_vette

I remember seeing that, They lifted the thing like 3 feet in the air and put a 400hp motor in it with a 200hp shot-o-nos.

It was a two parallel driveshafts with a chain between the two. No transfer case or anything.

It was an interesting build, but I felt like crying when they started ripping up that mint '78 vette.

Jaxian

I didn't think the heads would make a difference if it was going to be a kit, just make it for standard head pattern. Or is there something different about the 18 degrees that makes them easier to pull this positioning of the turbos off? I know nothing about the 18 degree heads as far as how they move things around. Did he just dump the exhaust right out the bottom or something? Couldn't get any pictures underneath so didn't see if there was any trickery going on. Thought it was a straightforward SBC with twins just done by one of the best 'packaging' guys (Troy Trepanier) in the business. I didn't know there were actual parts that moved stock major components. As to accessory drives it seems most everyone who goes high power with the superchargers ends up getting custom sets made so I wouldn't think that would too big a deal. Unless again they like rebuilt the crossmember from scratch or did something overkill like that. Magazines and stuff never give all the details on stuff like that so they always make it look so easy to do. Ha! Probably didn't hurt to have him tuning it and setting up the electronics for drivability and all too.

chuntington101

i say go quad turbo and 4WD! its going to be insane. whats the power figures for the K04's???

also have you looked at Quafie? they do off road transffer boxes i think.

thanks Chris.

Baldturbofreak

I figure like this:
I will make the 4wd interchangable with the Quad turbo/twin turbo setup.
That is if you bought a TT kit (bigger TT's ARE possible with a new tube K) or Quad Turbo if your an Eccentric feller like me and later bought a AWD kit the new K member for the AWD will work with your turbo system.
I did alotta measuring last night and began a preliminary cad drawing of my constraints. Soon I will drop the K, but leave the shortblock in place.
While the K-member is having a date with the acorn table for jigbuilding, I will place the front diff in there and start snapping a few photo's.
I will then take the points off the spindles with our Microscribe.(that thing is a pain in the ****,lol)
Rear steer looks like the best solution, but I'll be able to visualize better once the Diff is mocked in there.

What's everyone's thoughts on:
1)Brakes, CAD em up for the new ZO6? or C5 rotor/wilwood 4 piston?
2)Rack options, try to use old rack(front)? set it up for manual rack(front or rear)?

BTW it looks as though so far the tranfer shaft will be in the pass side hump, along with the dryclutch. I don't think we'll be cutting any fiberglass. However, the output hub dia might require a little trimming on the main frame, otherwise the CV shafts will be kinda low. Might be able to just hammer the seam over.
Oh and you will LOVE your new coiloverbellcrank/swaybar combo. I may even have a way for it to do a chinup so it wont scrape into parkinglots/driveways.

mn_vette

I'm fond of the C5 brakes myself, having a reuse of the stock C4 brakes might be helpful as well.

Definately the stock steering rack.

Ok, here's another not so random question. If the drive shaft is comming off of the back of the tranny and going strait up the side of the engine, just past or under the starter, isn't that exactly exhaust goes now. I guess at some point the pass exhaust has to go from the outside of the front driveshaft to the center of the car to go back to the mufflers. I was thinking it could go above the exhaust in the back and angle between it and the engine, but that would require some major ripping up of the trans tunnel.

I'm really not trying to slow anything down, but I'm trying to bring up all the things that might become problems after the mounting of the diff.

Baldturbofreak

with the diff mounted on that side, the input is low (and upside down)
The T-case output will bolt directly to the C-beam mounts, you will shorten your stock c-beam. The new propshaft will have an extra long yolk supported with additional bearings on either end. This is where the sprocket will take power out. It will take power directly down,or possibly on a slight angle from offset and into the clutch. Since the diff is upside down, the direction needs to be reversed. now we are talking a gearset so looks like the clutch will have to be wet. I'm now looking at using a few motorcycle clutchbaskets. It's just the outside ratios are huge..
The front propshaft will be a 1.25" CV shaft. you should be able to clear it easily.
If the transfer case is in the way( im gonna try and make the 1'st "stage" short as possible as far as height) you might have to resort to oval piping.

As a side note, Im gonna take a ride over to my parents and crawl under my mom's trailblazer. See what the diff in that looks like.

bill mcdonald

I dont really understand the rack part, maybe I am looking at it wrong. if you move it behind the spindles, we would have to steer to opposite direction right?
kind of like the driver in the back of the fire engine?

as far as brakes I was thinking about all the crap I have bought for my car and how useless it might end up being once someone begins chopping it all up... however I have been holding off on many things hoping for some cool stuff to come out. like a 500 ci LSX.

Back on the brakes. I have a set of 6 piston wilwoods for a C4/C5, but with out any mounting hardware or brake lines. so maybe if we could keep it kind of universal?
I like to go really fast. need to stop.

and lifting the nose is something I have thought about too. I have been wondering if I could just convert to coil overs, and shove an air bag inbetween the A arm and K memeber, basically where the transverse springs are. AWD would kill that quick. lol
My car is trouble over speed bumps.

Baldturbofreak

I suppose it could be a blank spindle and you just order the right backing plate.

Lol, no you wont steer backwards. Racks that are meant to be on the backside have the pinion mounted accordingly. likely be sourced from FWD car if neccisary.

93 ragtop

Rick, FWIW if you come up with a AWD kit version for a automatic, that wouldnt hurt my feelings. It would be better for us who like to drag race.

Baldturbofreak

Initially it will be the ZF-6 for sure as it's what I have to work with. Auto's will be a fairly easy endeavor compared to the stick, thanks the the arrangment of the tailshaft housing.
I have never taken my ZF apart but it sure would be nice If i could build a new tailhousing for it with the same ease as the THXXX.

I just became a ATI dealer, maybe a nice AWD Glide/brake combo?
manual 4l80/AWD?

I have had other ideas on the AWD but they are so crazy I wont even attempt them,lol.
The purpose of this engineering exercise is to lay some trackwork for my future roadster. That being the AWD system.
Goals = 4wd, 1lb/hp w/driver.
Aero goals= 2x vehicle weight by 150mph.
I plan on designing the car around the new radial sportsmans 18" wide up front, 21" wide in rear.
In otherwords I want a firebreathing warhawk packin' indycar with licence plates loosly based off a '32 ford.

So as I design this tranfercase in solidworks, Im doing so with the intentions of reusing the design in my roadster. My corvette, and likey yours will only reach 25% duty cycle of the T-case. It's being designed for use w/upwards of 2K hp and I'm hoping (Im sooo novice w/aerowork), zero tire slip..

Baldturbofreak

Also, for parts interchangibility's sake. Ive been looking at AWD sts and SRX knuckles/differetials as well.

TONYDEE64

This has BTF written all over it.... AWD Turbo...


http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos/10...-AWD-Turbo.htm