urgent- 350 / 4 bolt main fit ??
10-23-2007, 09:40 PM
#1
Instructor
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urgent- 350 / 4 bolt main fit ??
hi guys,
just come across a 350- 4 bolt main block for sale.
it has 4.000" bore size, 2 piece rear main seal,casting # is 3970010 with date numbers a208,010,g21 also on near timing cover.
ok, will this fit my 1991 L98 engine please ?
can you give me any other info/help i might need please ?
im looking at buyiing this block for my 3.875 " stroker crank build project.
hope to hear some replys soon.
cheers
just come across a 350- 4 bolt main block for sale.
it has 4.000" bore size, 2 piece rear main seal,casting # is 3970010 with date numbers a208,010,g21 also on near timing cover.
ok, will this fit my 1991 L98 engine please ?
can you give me any other info/help i might need please ?
im looking at buyiing this block for my 3.875 " stroker crank build project.
hope to hear some replys soon.
cheers
10-23-2007, 09:45 PM
#2
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Yours used a 1 piece rear main seal and provisions for roller cam. I think Moroso makes the adapter for the seal, you may need retrofit roller lifters (pricey).
What PN on the crank?
What PN on the crank?
10-24-2007, 02:56 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
I have a 74 4 bolt in my 86. I'm sure you can get it to work but you will need special retro-fit roller rockers to run a roller cam and then you either use a 2-piece RMS crank and seal or run an adaptor. All said and I done, I wish I just found a nice roller block.
10-24-2007, 07:45 AM
#5
Drifting
Suggest adding some holes & line bore to a roller block will be cheaper than this approach. Yes, it can all be done.
Old block,.. use old V-train setup, use old rear seal setup.
Why do you think you need the extra holes?
Old block,.. use old V-train setup, use old rear seal setup.
Why do you think you need the extra holes?
10-24-2007, 02:56 PM
#6
Race Director
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There is no need for line boring, just to convert seal types. The block will fit and work perfectly. There are two main differences, as have already been noted. The rear main seal can be adapted to a one piece, if you already have the crank, or you can just buy a two piece seal crank, if you don't. Be aware of the difference in the balancing methods.
You have three choices in the cam department. You can stick with the flat tappets the block was made for, you can add retro roller lifters as has been done for decades, or you can convert the block to use 1987-up OE roller lifters.
Regardless, this is a viable 4 bolt main alternative.
RACE ON!!!
You have three choices in the cam department. You can stick with the flat tappets the block was made for, you can add retro roller lifters as has been done for decades, or you can convert the block to use 1987-up OE roller lifters.
Regardless, this is a viable 4 bolt main alternative.
RACE ON!!!
10-24-2007, 04:19 PM
#7
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hi guys,
well thanks for your replys.
i have learnt some thing now and i will just stick to a 2 bolt with 1 piece rear main seal.
i already have new lifters,cam e.c.t,i dont want to have to stuff around with other mods to get the block to work.
but thanks kindly for your explainations,you just saved me a alot of heart ache and time,trouble and expense.
cheers for that
tyson
well thanks for your replys.
i have learnt some thing now and i will just stick to a 2 bolt with 1 piece rear main seal.
i already have new lifters,cam e.c.t,i dont want to have to stuff around with other mods to get the block to work.
but thanks kindly for your explainations,you just saved me a alot of heart ache and time,trouble and expense.
cheers for that
tyson
