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Code 32, I've replaced just about all of it, what to do next? Juliet hows your coming?

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Code 32, I've replaced just about all of it, what to do next? Juliet hows your coming?

 
Old 11-22-2001, 01:11 AM
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MDC9966
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Default Code 32, I've replaced just about all of it, what to do next? Juliet hows your coming?

Well, same symtoms as a lot of others, SES and code 32 after about 20 miles at 70-80mph. So far I"ve checked the gas cap (clicked a bunch), sealed loose cat pipe, replaced air pump, air diverter valve, egr, egr solenoid, egr temp switch, replaced all vacum lines under plenum, checked all connections with vac pump, checked passages for clogs. I've run out of ideas, the only thing left is an ecm or the dealership. Anybody else had any luck with anything else? I'm checking into have the prom burned to just turn off the darn light, but God is thing annoying. It runs fine, it's just a light, I gotta keep telling myself that.

Juliet, I saw your post, did you come up with anything?

By the way, my car is an 86, Al head, L98, auto, with cruise that works fine.

Mike
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Old 11-22-2001, 02:55 AM
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Sorry to hear that the parts you replaced didnt solve the problem.
Theres 2 good books you can buy,and with a digital voltmeter, you can trace back the wiring to the ecm and determine if theres voltage.
One book is the shop manual..the other is How to Tune and Modify Cheverolet Fuel injection,by Ben Watson.
Theres alot of things in here to read and follow for this particular code.

It would save alot of time and money if you can follow those particular steps before throwing parts at the car taking a chance..sometimes we get lucky and sometimes we dont.
You need to see if your still getting voltage at the wire and the ecm,and that can help narrow it down to where if the ecm needs replacing or theres an open or short somewhere.
If you dont have these books, I suggest to get them and follow to the letter.Theyve been a lifesaver for me in the past on some problems.
Also,hope David F comes back on board here soon, hes a walking shop manual.Hes got the best ideas ive seen so far as to check things.
:)


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Old 11-22-2001, 09:08 AM
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Default Re: (Bill's86Coupe)

Actually I've got both those books hoping to find the solution. I haven't checked voltage because to be honest I'm unclear about how to do it and don't want to fry the prom or ecm. The ECM is located in the pass side under the courtesy light panel I'm told. Do I have to take it out to check the voltage there? Do I check the voltage at the solenoid at the thermos housing? I know this probably sounds like dumb questions. I'm ok mechanically but trouble shooting electrical components is not my strong suite. I'll give anything a shot now though. I've got a digital voltmeter and about 4 days. If anyone can give insight or ideas, toss them at me.
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 11-22-2001, 03:09 PM
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You should have a trouble tree chart in the shop manual which you can follow to troubleshoot, but it sounds as if you losing or not getting the signal from the EGR diagnostic switch to the ECM. On my '89, that's ECM Pin C15, but verify in your manual. I'd check the wire from the switch to that pin for continuity. That test should be made with the ECM connector disconnected. You should also carefully inspect the wire for any cuts or abrasions that would cause it to intermittently ground. Also, when you replaced the switch, did you replace the connector? They break pretty easily and if it's not staying together tightly, it could give you an intermittent Code 32. I've found replacement halves at Pep Boys and Napa. While the ECM connector is disconnected, make sure that all of the Pins are straight and that none have backed out of the connector. If you want to check Pin out voltage, plug the connector back into the ECM then read it at idle with the engine warmed up. Should be 12 volts (with the Positive lead on the wire and the negative to ground). Check the voltage at the ECM and the switch connector to make sure there's no loss of continuity. If you want to do this test while driving the car, you will have to rig the DVM in series with the circuit. There would be 0 volts until the switch closes - and then 12 volts. The switch should be closed at the speed you're getting the code. Loss of voltage might further indicate that the wiring or the connectors are at fault or it could simply be that the ECM has stopped sending the signal.
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Old 11-23-2001, 08:03 AM
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Default Re: (Curtis629)

Guess I'll try some more today, I'll let you know.....
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Old 11-23-2001, 09:09 PM
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Default Re: (Curtis629)

borrowed a known ECM today. Still no luck. Must be a wiring short. May try another new EGR temp switch if I don't find a chip burner.
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Old 11-24-2001, 08:55 AM
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Default Re: (Curtis629)

After all this time and money, I would call Gordon Killebrew. A call to him will cost about $35 or so, but I bet he can figure out the problem. Money well spent when you can't find a problem. Also, he specifically mentioned Code 32 at one of the seminars he gave that I attended.
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Old 11-25-2001, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: (vettenuts)

I think I may have figured out the problem today. A bad "new" egr temp switch. I measured volts at C15 while I drove the car. The volts never dropped. When I got home I left the key on and grounded the switch and volts went to zero. According to the trouble shoot it means a bad switch. I just replaced it but who knows. I've got another one on the way.
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