Finally PICS of the new motor
#24
Race Director
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (Monty)
cool, a supercharger and NO2. Is that your 400+ stroker?
#25
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 1999
Location: Fort Worth Texas
Posts: 9,566
Received 1,620 Likes
on
739 Posts
2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C8 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (stock)
2019 C7 of Year Winner (stock)
Former Moderator
Cruise-In I-II-III Veteran
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (AKS Racing)
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:cheers:
:cheers:
#26
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (Monty)
Monty,
That is the 408 ci small block. It uses a 4" crank with a 0.030" overbore. Runs cool. Lots of power.
BTW, I have begun the parts acrual for the new motor. Just haven't finalized the cubic inches. Looking at the D-1R or the D-3 for forced induction. Still talking with ATI.
To all,
Thanks for the feedback. It runs as good as it looks.
Aaron
That is the 408 ci small block. It uses a 4" crank with a 0.030" overbore. Runs cool. Lots of power.
BTW, I have begun the parts acrual for the new motor. Just haven't finalized the cubic inches. Looking at the D-1R or the D-3 for forced induction. Still talking with ATI.
To all,
Thanks for the feedback. It runs as good as it looks.
Aaron
#29
Burning Brakes
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (AKS Racing)
THAT is a way cool bitchen motor! (The oughta make clear hoods, ya?)
Where are you sending the PCV gases on the passenger side?
Where are you sending the PCV gases on the passenger side?
#30
Le Mans Master
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (AKS Racing)
Hehe, AKS, I like your style. We have alot in common, never satisfied, always looking for more power. Good luck with the new engine buildup, those are some big sc's you're looking at, I'm sure it'll make plenty of power. Keep us up to date...My turbo setup should be done by the end of January.
#31
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (Monty)
Monty,
Really looking at the option of a GMPP aluminum tall deck block. This has the opportunity to dreate large ci motor. Combine that with the additional stroke and a large blower and lookout. Like I have said in the past, I have many of the parts already, just need to finalize the plan.
BTW,
The next combo will utilize black painted and cleared parts. I will use the Chevrolet cast valve covers painted black with the letters still in the factory aluminum all clearcoated. This should really look nice. I would like to see a combo such as this that could generate over 1000RWHP in a streetable package. I think you would agree that this is possible. Will it look like a "bolt-on" motor, NO but at this point the other car is down to less than 3000# and looks pretty much like a race car anyways.
Aaron
Really looking at the option of a GMPP aluminum tall deck block. This has the opportunity to dreate large ci motor. Combine that with the additional stroke and a large blower and lookout. Like I have said in the past, I have many of the parts already, just need to finalize the plan.
BTW,
The next combo will utilize black painted and cleared parts. I will use the Chevrolet cast valve covers painted black with the letters still in the factory aluminum all clearcoated. This should really look nice. I would like to see a combo such as this that could generate over 1000RWHP in a streetable package. I think you would agree that this is possible. Will it look like a "bolt-on" motor, NO but at this point the other car is down to less than 3000# and looks pretty much like a race car anyways.
Aaron
#32
Drifting
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (Monty)
Good God! That is BaD A$5. Glad you don't live closer than you do- my car would look like a POS compared to this. Great Job! :yesnod:
#33
Le Mans Master
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (AKS Racing)
As you know, I definitely recommend the taller deck block if you're building a serious stroker motor, but I think you might be better off with an iron block. Obviously, an aluminum block is lighter and it certainly has a 'cool' factor, but what alot of people don't realize is that an iron block engine will always make more power than an aluminum block engine, all things equal. Any engine builder will confirm this.
The problem with aluminum blocks is that they just simply aren't as rigid and the mains as well as the cylinder walls simply move around too much, even with cast iron sleeves. This movement has an effect on ring seal, and on engine with the kind of power we're talking about can make as much as a 40hp difference. Also, the movement in the bottom end has a negative effect on bearing wear. Compounfding this is the fact that the main bearing clearances have to be preety loose to account for the expansion if the aluminum when it reaches operating temperature. Besides the weight advantages, the aluminum blocks are alot easier to repair if something bad happens though. Just somehting to consider. I just don't see the benefit of an aluminum block unless you're trying to meet some kind of weight break/limit in an organized, competitive racing situation. Obviously the OEM's use aluminum blocks for the weight saving reasons as well, to help them meet gas mileage standards.
Of course the decision is based off of weighing your priorities, and weight and repairability may be prime concerns. I guess when we're talking 1000+hp, 40-50 hp more really isn't that big of a deal anymore.
[Modified by Monty, 9:07 AM 11/28/2001]
The problem with aluminum blocks is that they just simply aren't as rigid and the mains as well as the cylinder walls simply move around too much, even with cast iron sleeves. This movement has an effect on ring seal, and on engine with the kind of power we're talking about can make as much as a 40hp difference. Also, the movement in the bottom end has a negative effect on bearing wear. Compounfding this is the fact that the main bearing clearances have to be preety loose to account for the expansion if the aluminum when it reaches operating temperature. Besides the weight advantages, the aluminum blocks are alot easier to repair if something bad happens though. Just somehting to consider. I just don't see the benefit of an aluminum block unless you're trying to meet some kind of weight break/limit in an organized, competitive racing situation. Obviously the OEM's use aluminum blocks for the weight saving reasons as well, to help them meet gas mileage standards.
Of course the decision is based off of weighing your priorities, and weight and repairability may be prime concerns. I guess when we're talking 1000+hp, 40-50 hp more really isn't that big of a deal anymore.
[Modified by Monty, 9:07 AM 11/28/2001]
#35
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (Monty)
Monty,
Thanks for the response. As always, lots of info from someone with knowledge to share. I will keep you updated as I make progress. The effort will be to correct some of the inherent shortcomings in the current combo. These would include:
- use of some really good heads that I already have (18° Chevy ported by Rons Porting Service for NMCA with Jesel shafts). In the current combo, I wanted to retain the "bolt-on" look, so I went to great lengths to retain the factory valve covers (you may recall the effort required to do this). Retaining the factory vc will not be an issue with the next.
- use of the FelPro computer w/ wide band O2. This will truly be a blessing as I have already participated in tuning a 1300 hp ATI 383. This software and computer are truly amazing compared to the computer I'm currently using.
- more cubes if I can get a better rod/stroke ratio (current is 1.46). This should not be an issue with a tall deck block (BowTie cast iron or aftermarket aluminum). Assuming that I can use 6.125" rods in all the combos below, a std bore tall deck with a 1/8" more stroke than my current 4" stroke yields yields 441 cubes (with a R/S ratio of 1.49), add a 0.030" overbore and add 6 more cubes (still R/S ratio of 1.49). Install a 4.25 stroke crank and that value jumps to 461 cubes (but the R/S ratio drops below current at 1.44). This is what I am struggling with. The heads are worked for a 4.155" bore (2.15/1.68 titanium valves).
- add more boost through use of either the D-1R or the D-3R ATI units.
- reduce the total package weight. The current combo is in a car that weighs nearly 3600#. The other car weighs less than 3000#.
Hope this helps to explain the method to my madness.
I will keep you guys updated as the insanity progresses.
Thanks for looking,
Aaron
Thanks for the response. As always, lots of info from someone with knowledge to share. I will keep you updated as I make progress. The effort will be to correct some of the inherent shortcomings in the current combo. These would include:
- use of some really good heads that I already have (18° Chevy ported by Rons Porting Service for NMCA with Jesel shafts). In the current combo, I wanted to retain the "bolt-on" look, so I went to great lengths to retain the factory valve covers (you may recall the effort required to do this). Retaining the factory vc will not be an issue with the next.
- use of the FelPro computer w/ wide band O2. This will truly be a blessing as I have already participated in tuning a 1300 hp ATI 383. This software and computer are truly amazing compared to the computer I'm currently using.
- more cubes if I can get a better rod/stroke ratio (current is 1.46). This should not be an issue with a tall deck block (BowTie cast iron or aftermarket aluminum). Assuming that I can use 6.125" rods in all the combos below, a std bore tall deck with a 1/8" more stroke than my current 4" stroke yields yields 441 cubes (with a R/S ratio of 1.49), add a 0.030" overbore and add 6 more cubes (still R/S ratio of 1.49). Install a 4.25 stroke crank and that value jumps to 461 cubes (but the R/S ratio drops below current at 1.44). This is what I am struggling with. The heads are worked for a 4.155" bore (2.15/1.68 titanium valves).
- add more boost through use of either the D-1R or the D-3R ATI units.
- reduce the total package weight. The current combo is in a car that weighs nearly 3600#. The other car weighs less than 3000#.
Hope this helps to explain the method to my madness.
I will keep you guys updated as the insanity progresses.
Thanks for looking,
Aaron
#36
Le Mans Master
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (AKS Racing)
Sounds to me like you've really done your homework and you'll end up with a killer combination. I can't wait to hear the results. I'm glad I don't live in your area!
#40
Drifting
Re: Finally PICS of the new motor (AKS Racing)
What kind of paint do I use in the engine area that will remain with high heat.