Stock LT1 w/ 8psi and injector size
03-20-2008, 10:13 AM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Stock LT1 w/ 8psi and injector size
Years ago I put new injectors in my LT1 when I installed my Procharger.
It doesn't run right but that's besides the point. I really need to get it on the dyno but it's something to wonder about considering my injector size.
It was suggested by the community at the time that if I'm running 8psi 30lb FMS injectors would be enough. I've had several people recently tell me that if I want 400-420RWHP 30's are way way too small to make that kind of power.
What's all your opinion on this?
I know stockers run the 24 or 26lb lucas injectors and can safely run 8psi but that's with the FMU.
I do have the FMU now and it's at about 60psi rail pressure at full boost but I'd like to get rid of the FMU if I get a dyno tune and I'm wondering if 30's will be too small for ~40-50 FP.
It doesn't run right but that's besides the point. I really need to get it on the dyno but it's something to wonder about considering my injector size.
It was suggested by the community at the time that if I'm running 8psi 30lb FMS injectors would be enough. I've had several people recently tell me that if I want 400-420RWHP 30's are way way too small to make that kind of power.
What's all your opinion on this?
I know stockers run the 24 or 26lb lucas injectors and can safely run 8psi but that's with the FMU.
I do have the FMU now and it's at about 60psi rail pressure at full boost but I'd like to get rid of the FMU if I get a dyno tune and I'm wondering if 30's will be too small for ~40-50 FP.
03-20-2008, 01:42 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
tried to post earlier, it didn't work out.
the 30# injectors will not support 400-425whp!
you will need 42# or 60# injectors to support that kind of power.
also what year is your vette?
the 30# injectors will not support 400-425whp!
you will need 42# or 60# injectors to support that kind of power.
also what year is your vette?
03-20-2008, 02:13 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
That just figures doesn't it. 5 years ago others were saying 30lbs would be enough.
It's a '92.
I should add at this point that I have a widebandO2 and I'm running around 11-11.5:1 AFR at WOT and 8-9psi so I know they'll work with my FMU at my current tune. I doubt I'm making even 400RWHP. In fact, my traps were 111MPH (albeit the car was bogging) but I'm guessing around 360-380RWHP is where I'm at.
I'm thinking if I get the car dyno tuned my injectors will max out and that's using my FMU. I guess it goes without saying that I"m stuck with my FMU if I don't upgrade my injectors.
Last edited by vvv90; 03-20-2008 at 02:19 PM.
03-20-2008, 02:36 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
okay, well you have several more issues at this point. one of them being the year of the car.
The stock ecu cannot recognize boost (92'-93' issue only), that's the reason for the FMU. The stock ecu might* be able to get tuned to run larger than 30# injectors, but the possibility is slim. I haven't looked into getting my 93' (i have the same problem) tuned for larger injectors. But if* you can get away with having the car recognize larger injectors, you'll be in good shape. Than all you need to do is get the appropriate fuel pump (i am not a fan of having an in-tank and an in-line to "band-aid" the problem) get the approiate sized (or dual) intank pumps.
Teh FMU disc will need to be sized accordingly (i.e. for 42#'s instead of the current 30#'s). I think you're closer to 320-350whp at the moment.
our stock computers cannot recognize a 2-bar or 3-bar map sensor, so when it comes to serious power (via-boost) we only have a few options.... a stand alone or a piggy back unit. I haven't looked into too many piggy back units yet, but i am still researching.
The piggy back will be nice because it will also support additional injectors (which means, you might be able to use the existing 30# injectors and have two auxilary [60# plus] injectors for when it starts to run lean). the piggy back does this by recognizing engine loads (i.e. rev's pressure, etc). like the haltech f5
The stock ecu cannot recognize boost (92'-93' issue only), that's the reason for the FMU. The stock ecu might* be able to get tuned to run larger than 30# injectors, but the possibility is slim. I haven't looked into getting my 93' (i have the same problem) tuned for larger injectors. But if* you can get away with having the car recognize larger injectors, you'll be in good shape. Than all you need to do is get the appropriate fuel pump (i am not a fan of having an in-tank and an in-line to "band-aid" the problem) get the approiate sized (or dual) intank pumps.
Teh FMU disc will need to be sized accordingly (i.e. for 42#'s instead of the current 30#'s). I think you're closer to 320-350whp at the moment.
our stock computers cannot recognize a 2-bar or 3-bar map sensor, so when it comes to serious power (via-boost) we only have a few options.... a stand alone or a piggy back unit. I haven't looked into too many piggy back units yet, but i am still researching.
The piggy back will be nice because it will also support additional injectors (which means, you might be able to use the existing 30# injectors and have two auxilary [60# plus] injectors for when it starts to run lean). the piggy back does this by recognizing engine loads (i.e. rev's pressure, etc). like the haltech f5
03-20-2008, 02:50 PM
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
The stock ecu cannot recognize boost (92'-93' issue only), that's the reason for the FMU. The stock ecu might* be able to get tuned to run larger than 30# injectors, but the possibility is slim. I haven't looked into getting my 93' (i have the same problem) tuned for larger injectors. But if* you can get away with having the car recognize larger injectors, you'll be in good shape. Than all you need to do is get the appropriate fuel pump (i am not a fan of having an in-tank and an in-line to "band-aid" the problem) get the approiate sized (or dual) intank pumps.
Hmmm....The plot thicken.
I do have a single in-tank Walbro 255 right now and I can go boost-a-pump if I need to but I should be fine.
Teh FMU disc will need to be sized accordingly (i.e. for 42#'s instead of the current 30#'s). I think you're closer to 320-350whp at the moment.
our stock computers cannot recognize a 2-bar or 3-bar map sensor, so when it comes to serious power (via-boost) we only have a few options.... a stand alone or a piggy back unit. I haven't looked into too many piggy back units yet, but i am still researching.
The piggy back will be nice because it will also support additional injectors (which means, you might be able to use the existing 30# injectors and have two auxilary [60# plus] injectors for when it starts to run lean). the piggy back does this by recognizing engine loads (i.e. rev's pressure, etc). like the haltech f5
The piggy back will be nice because it will also support additional injectors (which means, you might be able to use the existing 30# injectors and have two auxilary [60# plus] injectors for when it starts to run lean). the piggy back does this by recognizing engine loads (i.e. rev's pressure, etc). like the haltech f5
I'm not a fan of piggy back unit and especially auxillary injectors. You never get an even AFR between cylinders so it scares me.
Last time I looked into this an Accel DFI system was the way to go and with harnesses and everything it was between $2500-$3000 for the whole setup.
03-20-2008, 06:50 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
that's exactly it! lol... glad to see that you now recall the many issues.
the computer should be fine with possibly 10-20% larger injectors... meaning the 30#'s are about the biggest you can go without making the computer crazy.
The accel unit is awesome, but pricy. I was also told some "dash light" functions will be eliminated when running a stand alone.
Also look into Haltech (pretty cost effective) and even F.A.S.T.
our engine's fuel injection is a "batch fire" type injection, so the accuracy of the fuel delivery is not as "ideal" as a sequential fire injection (after 93'). The stand alone's will be sequential, so the auxilary injectors wont be "that" bad with the existing injection combination. And you won't get dead accurate fuel delivery, but you want to be on the safe side with the tune anyway. the 255lph should be able to support the "desired" power level.
I don't recommend a "boost-a-pump".
the computer should be fine with possibly 10-20% larger injectors... meaning the 30#'s are about the biggest you can go without making the computer crazy.
The accel unit is awesome, but pricy. I was also told some "dash light" functions will be eliminated when running a stand alone.
Also look into Haltech (pretty cost effective) and even F.A.S.T.
our engine's fuel injection is a "batch fire" type injection, so the accuracy of the fuel delivery is not as "ideal" as a sequential fire injection (after 93'). The stand alone's will be sequential, so the auxilary injectors wont be "that" bad with the existing injection combination. And you won't get dead accurate fuel delivery, but you want to be on the safe side with the tune anyway. the 255lph should be able to support the "desired" power level.
I don't recommend a "boost-a-pump".
03-21-2008, 02:23 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
they are used commonly, and almost every vendor has their own version of an in-line pump to "aid" the intank unit.
I know of several issues (regarding failures) of these pumps, or it causeing to much load on the intank unit (my 98' saleen with a vortech, and several other mustangs' in particular).
It's just not a good way to resolve a fuel need. It's fine for low boost applications (although i still wouldn't do that, my low boost saleen was having issues with the in-line "fighting" with the in-tank) but anyone that wants to do it right will take the extra effort to replace the intank rather than band aid it with an in line. The in-line is used in kits because it allows an "in house" DIY'er to install their kit without going to the extreme of removing the fuel tank... although if the process was easier than the vendor would just have the right parts, right off the bat.
same thing with the FMU, it's a band aid for a low boost application. even the vendor will agree that if you want more power (which their kits can support) you are on your own when it comes to fuel management and tuning.
don't get me wrong, if you want to run an in-line, go for it. It is your own car after all. I just prefer to have the right parts to support the application. And please, no dis-respect to anyone running this combo.
I know of several issues (regarding failures) of these pumps, or it causeing to much load on the intank unit (my 98' saleen with a vortech, and several other mustangs' in particular).
It's just not a good way to resolve a fuel need. It's fine for low boost applications (although i still wouldn't do that, my low boost saleen was having issues with the in-line "fighting" with the in-tank) but anyone that wants to do it right will take the extra effort to replace the intank rather than band aid it with an in line. The in-line is used in kits because it allows an "in house" DIY'er to install their kit without going to the extreme of removing the fuel tank... although if the process was easier than the vendor would just have the right parts, right off the bat.
same thing with the FMU, it's a band aid for a low boost application. even the vendor will agree that if you want more power (which their kits can support) you are on your own when it comes to fuel management and tuning.
don't get me wrong, if you want to run an in-line, go for it. It is your own car after all. I just prefer to have the right parts to support the application. And please, no dis-respect to anyone running this combo.
03-21-2008, 02:28 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
if a vendor actually offered the following:
injectors
in-tank pump
ecu tune
associated parts (i.e. MAF sensors, maybe fuel rails..etc)....
can you imagine how much more expensive the kits would be?!?!?!
injectors
in-tank pump
ecu tune
associated parts (i.e. MAF sensors, maybe fuel rails..etc)....
can you imagine how much more expensive the kits would be?!?!?!
03-21-2008, 07:52 AM
#10
Safety Car
Years ago I put new injectors in my LT1 when I installed my Procharger.
It doesn't run right but that's besides the point. I really need to get it on the dyno but it's something to wonder about considering my injector size.
It was suggested by the community at the time that if I'm running 8psi 30lb FMS injectors would be enough. I've had several people recently tell me that if I want 400-420RWHP 30's are way way too small to make that kind of power.
What's all your opinion on this?
I know stockers run the 24 or 26lb lucas injectors and can safely run 8psi but that's with the FMU.
I do have the FMU now and it's at about 60psi rail pressure at full boost but I'd like to get rid of the FMU if I get a dyno tune and I'm wondering if 30's will be too small for ~40-50 FP.
It doesn't run right but that's besides the point. I really need to get it on the dyno but it's something to wonder about considering my injector size.
It was suggested by the community at the time that if I'm running 8psi 30lb FMS injectors would be enough. I've had several people recently tell me that if I want 400-420RWHP 30's are way way too small to make that kind of power.
What's all your opinion on this?
I know stockers run the 24 or 26lb lucas injectors and can safely run 8psi but that's with the FMU.
I do have the FMU now and it's at about 60psi rail pressure at full boost but I'd like to get rid of the FMU if I get a dyno tune and I'm wondering if 30's will be too small for ~40-50 FP.
Depending on the year of your LT1, if it's MAF based your blower might not max our the MAF sensor, so maybe you can tune fuel that way.
If it's a batch fire system, you can't run 42s or 60s, thats just nonsense. I've tried 42s, and although on paper they support tons of power you'll never get them to idle. The shortest duration an injector (high z) can open is about 1.2 msec, which is still going to be pig rich at idle on a batch fire setups. Some boosted ECM's like the older sy-ty stuff support quassi fueling modes, which fire batch every other DRP to help with using large injectors, but it's not perfect.
The purpose of the inline pump is to keep the volume up. On the in-tank pumps, the volume goes down as the pressure goes up. The idea of adding an inline pump is the volume will stay manageable up to about 80-90psi depending on the combination used. "blowerworks" has some really nice documentation, so give him a shout. He's earned by business and been very helpful.
So to recap:
A 'boostable tune ecm' w/ 60psi and 30lbs would be best for 500fwhp
A 'boostable tune ecm' w/ 45psi will support 500fwhp with 36# injectors
Your current setup with fmu works fine.
-- Joe
03-21-2008, 11:55 AM
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
Your combo is perfect for 500hp. 60psi rail pressure, 30# injectors with a BSFC of .50 (most centrifigul setups) we're looking at a 90% duty cycle which is just peachy. If you ditch the FMU, you can raise the rail pressure back up to 60psi vac disconnected but your ECM can't see the boost, so you'll have to add fuel with PE which is crude.
Depending on the year of your LT1, if it's MAF based your blower might not max our the MAF sensor, so maybe you can tune fuel that way.
If it's a batch fire system, you can't run 42s or 60s, thats just nonsense. I've tried 42s, and although on paper they support tons of power you'll never get them to idle. The shortest duration an injector (high z) can open is about 1.2 msec, which is still going to be pig rich at idle on a batch fire setups. Some boosted ECM's like the older sy-ty stuff support quassi fueling modes, which fire batch every other DRP to help with using large injectors, but it's not perfect.
The purpose of the inline pump is to keep the volume up. On the in-tank pumps, the volume goes down as the pressure goes up. The idea of adding an inline pump is the volume will stay manageable up to about 80-90psi depending on the combination used. "blowerworks" has some really nice documentation, so give him a shout. He's earned by business and been very helpful.
So to recap:
A 'boostable tune ecm' w/ 60psi and 30lbs would be best for 500fwhp
A 'boostable tune ecm' w/ 45psi will support 500fwhp with 36# injectors
Your current setup with fmu works fine.
-- Joe
Depending on the year of your LT1, if it's MAF based your blower might not max our the MAF sensor, so maybe you can tune fuel that way.
If it's a batch fire system, you can't run 42s or 60s, thats just nonsense. I've tried 42s, and although on paper they support tons of power you'll never get them to idle. The shortest duration an injector (high z) can open is about 1.2 msec, which is still going to be pig rich at idle on a batch fire setups. Some boosted ECM's like the older sy-ty stuff support quassi fueling modes, which fire batch every other DRP to help with using large injectors, but it's not perfect.
The purpose of the inline pump is to keep the volume up. On the in-tank pumps, the volume goes down as the pressure goes up. The idea of adding an inline pump is the volume will stay manageable up to about 80-90psi depending on the combination used. "blowerworks" has some really nice documentation, so give him a shout. He's earned by business and been very helpful.
So to recap:
A 'boostable tune ecm' w/ 60psi and 30lbs would be best for 500fwhp
A 'boostable tune ecm' w/ 45psi will support 500fwhp with 36# injectors
Your current setup with fmu works fine.
-- Joe
Well thanks Joe, that makes me feel a lot better. In my original post I said I wanted to ditch the FMU, but you guys have enlightened me to the fact that 30's are as big as I can go with my ECU. BTW: It's a MAP only batch fire so I'm pretty much stuck with this setup. Which will be fine if I can get it tuned for max power.
I think at this point I'll leave the injection setup alone and focus on my alky/water injection to fix the problems with my heat soaked crappy IC and work my way backwards.
You're the first person to bring up the benefit of having an inline pump with regards to volume. It makes sense I guess but I hate the fact that if one of my pumps fails I'll run lean.
At this point at with my Walbro in-tank GSS 255lph pump at WOT I'm running very rich so I'm sure the volume is there. If I get a tune to add more fuel and spark and need more volume I'll look at putting the in-line back in. Let me know if you disagree with that philosophy for whatever reason. It's just that if I'm running ~11:1 AFR at 8psi I don't think volume is an issue.
Thanks!
Last edited by vvv90; 03-21-2008 at 11:59 AM.
03-21-2008, 12:06 PM
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
they are used commonly, and almost every vendor has their own version of an in-line pump to "aid" the intank unit.
I know of several issues (regarding failures) of these pumps, or it causeing to much load on the intank unit (my 98' saleen with a vortech, and several other mustangs' in particular).
It's just not a good way to resolve a fuel need. It's fine for low boost applications (although i still wouldn't do that, my low boost saleen was having issues with the in-line "fighting" with the in-tank) but anyone that wants to do it right will take the extra effort to replace the intank rather than band aid it with an in line. The in-line is used in kits because it allows an "in house" DIY'er to install their kit without going to the extreme of removing the fuel tank... although if the process was easier than the vendor would just have the right parts, right off the bat.
same thing with the FMU, it's a band aid for a low boost application. even the vendor will agree that if you want more power (which their kits can support) you are on your own when it comes to fuel management and tuning.
don't get me wrong, if you want to run an in-line, go for it. It is your own car after all. I just prefer to have the right parts to support the application. And please, no dis-respect to anyone running this combo.
I know of several issues (regarding failures) of these pumps, or it causeing to much load on the intank unit (my 98' saleen with a vortech, and several other mustangs' in particular).
It's just not a good way to resolve a fuel need. It's fine for low boost applications (although i still wouldn't do that, my low boost saleen was having issues with the in-line "fighting" with the in-tank) but anyone that wants to do it right will take the extra effort to replace the intank rather than band aid it with an in line. The in-line is used in kits because it allows an "in house" DIY'er to install their kit without going to the extreme of removing the fuel tank... although if the process was easier than the vendor would just have the right parts, right off the bat.
same thing with the FMU, it's a band aid for a low boost application. even the vendor will agree that if you want more power (which their kits can support) you are on your own when it comes to fuel management and tuning.
don't get me wrong, if you want to run an in-line, go for it. It is your own car after all. I just prefer to have the right parts to support the application. And please, no dis-respect to anyone running this combo.
OH I see what you're saying. I am running an upgraded Walbro GSS340 255lph intank pump. No in-line pump. I removed that so yes, I agree with what you're saying. It's been years since I've posted regularly in the C4 section so I should have put up my signature. See below:
However, boost-a-pump is not an inline pump. It's a voltage regulator for your intank pump.
From Kenne Bell's website:
How it Works - While dyno and street testing, our On Board Data Logger told us that fuel flow was less at night when the lights, stereo etc. were on. The voltage to the pump was varying between 12 and 13.5 volts and fuel was being reduced up to 15%. Further testing in our Fuel Flow Lab indicated that by elevating the voltage to the pump we could safely increase fuel capacity by as much as 50%. The Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP™ does just that - and it automatically maintains the pre-set voltage or % increase with as little as 10 volts at the battery.
Last edited by vvv90; 03-21-2008 at 12:09 PM.
03-21-2008, 12:12 PM
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
Tell me about it!
When I bought my kit I thought it had everything I needed...WRONG! The only thing stock about my Procharger kit is the head unit, ducting, a couple bushings from the original bracket, but they were cut and modified, and my IC which I'm going to ditch with the advent of alky/water.
The parts you listed above ran another ~$700 and those were the cheap upgrades. I'd say I got around $6500-$7000 but that includes the new vented optispark too.
If I had to do it again I would've just saved for a C5 Z06.
Oh well, live and learn.
03-21-2008, 03:17 PM
#14
Pro
Time for a good deed for the week. I'll give you my two cents. Do what you please with it.
Your signature doesn't indicate any bottom end mods so your @350 cu in. Your probably not going to see 500 horses at the rear wheels. Most likely 405/410 which by the way is nice for the street. Don't put the inline pump back on. It's more of a restriction. Your between a rock and a hard place. What ever you do will cost $$$$. With the speed density system you have three choices, possibly more.
1) keep the FMU and go with the 30lb+injectors and a "HyperTech supercharger chip" provided they still burn them. It won't be perfect but it's cost effective.
2) Go to 42 lb injectors, dump the FMU and make sure your at 58/60 lbs fuel pressure at wide open throttle. Go to blower works or look else where for a "Super Fueler Unit" This will take care of the fuel situation but you still have to burn a chip for timing purposes.
3) If you have the money to spend invest in a DFI unit and solve all or most of your problems.
4) With C4s so cheap, get a 94 and work with LT-1 edit.
There is no economical simple solution. Been there, done that.
Your signature doesn't indicate any bottom end mods so your @350 cu in. Your probably not going to see 500 horses at the rear wheels. Most likely 405/410 which by the way is nice for the street. Don't put the inline pump back on. It's more of a restriction. Your between a rock and a hard place. What ever you do will cost $$$$. With the speed density system you have three choices, possibly more.
1) keep the FMU and go with the 30lb+injectors and a "HyperTech supercharger chip" provided they still burn them. It won't be perfect but it's cost effective.
2) Go to 42 lb injectors, dump the FMU and make sure your at 58/60 lbs fuel pressure at wide open throttle. Go to blower works or look else where for a "Super Fueler Unit" This will take care of the fuel situation but you still have to burn a chip for timing purposes.
3) If you have the money to spend invest in a DFI unit and solve all or most of your problems.
4) With C4s so cheap, get a 94 and work with LT-1 edit.
There is no economical simple solution. Been there, done that.
03-21-2008, 03:53 PM
#15
Safety Car
How so?
I have a flow-graph matrix with the GS340 in-tank pump alone, and with various inline pumps. There is no possible combination that would cause a 'restriction'. They all increase flow volume at higher pressures.
The GS340 is a 255lph pump, which is 67.3GPH. It flows that much at 25psi. At 45 psi, flow is reduced to 55gph. At 60psi flow is reduced to 51gph.
51gph = 306lbs per hour of fuel delivery.
at a BSFC of .5, 51gph can theoretically support 606 flywheel hp.
Not that he *needs* the booster pump, but adding even the smallest vortech booster pump brings volume back up to 62gph, - 744hp.
So with that said.. How does it act as a restriction?
-- Joe
I have a flow-graph matrix with the GS340 in-tank pump alone, and with various inline pumps. There is no possible combination that would cause a 'restriction'. They all increase flow volume at higher pressures.
The GS340 is a 255lph pump, which is 67.3GPH. It flows that much at 25psi. At 45 psi, flow is reduced to 55gph. At 60psi flow is reduced to 51gph.
51gph = 306lbs per hour of fuel delivery.
at a BSFC of .5, 51gph can theoretically support 606 flywheel hp.
Not that he *needs* the booster pump, but adding even the smallest vortech booster pump brings volume back up to 62gph, - 744hp.
So with that said.. How does it act as a restriction?
-- Joe
03-21-2008, 04:27 PM
#16
Race Director
Thread Starter
Time for a good deed for the week. I'll give you my two cents. Do what you please with it.
Your signature doesn't indicate any bottom end mods so your @350 cu in. Your probably not going to see 500 horses at the rear wheels. Most likely 405/410 which by the way is nice for the street.
Your signature doesn't indicate any bottom end mods so your @350 cu in. Your probably not going to see 500 horses at the rear wheels. Most likely 405/410 which by the way is nice for the street.
NO no no no...I'm very aware that I'll never see that kind of power. I would be perfectly happy at 400-410 at the wheels with a good tune. I know some guys have seen 420 but that's the most I've ever heard of. I reialize I'll need a forged bottom end for anything higher.
Don't put the inline pump back on. It's more of a restriction.
Your between a rock and a hard place. What ever you do will cost $$$$. With the speed density system you have three choices, possibly more.
1) keep the FMU and go with the 30lb+injectors and a "HyperTech supercharger chip" provided they still burn them. It won't be perfect but it's cost effective.
1) keep the FMU and go with the 30lb+injectors and a "HyperTech supercharger chip" provided they still burn them. It won't be perfect but it's cost effective.
2) Go to 42 lb injectors, dump the FMU and make sure your at 58/60 lbs fuel pressure at wide open throttle. Go to blower works or look else where for a "Super Fueler Unit" This will take care of the fuel situation but you still have to burn a chip for timing purposes.
3) If you have the money to spend invest in a DFI unit and solve all or most of your problems.
4) With C4s so cheap, get a 94 and work with LT-1 edit.
There is no economical simple solution. Been there, done that.
3) If you have the money to spend invest in a DFI unit and solve all or most of your problems.
4) With C4s so cheap, get a 94 and work with LT-1 edit.
There is no economical simple solution. Been there, done that.
The DFI would be the holy grail for sure. But then I'm still stuck with a stock mill LT1 and that's where the power limitation really is. I'd be happy just to stick with what I've got and get a good tune.
03-21-2008, 06:19 PM
#17
Pro
I wish you well, a good tune is the way to go, however you mentioned
you had problems for a while.
If indeed you have a good chip burner providing the tune you'll be fine.
If you raise the boost to 10 lbs, you'll hit about 430/435 rwhp. Problem is the rings and pistons may last about a year.
you had problems for a while.
If indeed you have a good chip burner providing the tune you'll be fine.
If you raise the boost to 10 lbs, you'll hit about 430/435 rwhp. Problem is the rings and pistons may last about a year.
03-22-2008, 12:47 AM
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
I wish you well, a good tune is the way to go, however you mentioned
you had problems for a while.
If indeed you have a good chip burner providing the tune you'll be fine.
If you raise the boost to 10 lbs, you'll hit about 430/435 rwhp. Problem is the rings and pistons may last about a year.
you had problems for a while.
If indeed you have a good chip burner providing the tune you'll be fine.
If you raise the boost to 10 lbs, you'll hit about 430/435 rwhp. Problem is the rings and pistons may last about a year.
Forget 10 psi...That's suicide. I"m sure I could hit it safely but I'd have to pull so much timing that my HP and TQ curve would drop so much at that RPM it wouldnt' be worth it.
I have a Jesse Azzato chip right now and I'm looking into just getting the Prom writer/Prom eraser and tunercat to bring to the dyno tuner myself. F**K the mail-order crap.
The problems I've had for a while have just been about running too rich with load off idle. The car just falls on it's face because of too much fuel at low RPM...Not surprising since I'm running 30# injectors on a stock ECU.
We'll see what the dyno tuner can do.
Thanks for your help and opinions though. I do really appreciate it.
