Fuel Pump Relay or Oil Pressure Switch
#1
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Fuel Pump Relay or Oil Pressure Switch
Victim: 1987 Automatic Convertible with 160K+ miles. Manufactured 10/86, Stock engine, Ignition, etc; The only real mods: the suspension for Autocrossing and no mufflers, just a Catalytic Converter for nice mellow louder sound - no resonance.
Problem/Test Results: I made it through the entire Code 54 FSM flow chart to the bottom with a digital volt meter instead of a test light, soooo.... the results was 0.01 DC volts. Does that low of voltage qualify as the Test Light being "On" therefore I need to change the Oil Pressure Switch? Or do I "back-up" 1 step and replace the Fuel Pump Relay also?
Situation: Using the 1987 FSM pages 6E3-A-60 (dated 4-4-86) & 6E3-A-61 (dated 4-24-86) these were my results:
BLOW BY BLOW (Flow Chart Results)
- Ign "Off" for 10 seconds
- Ign "On"
- Listen for In-Tank Fuel Pump
- Pump Should Run for 2 seconds After Ign "On"
Result: No
-Ign "Off"
-Using A Fused Jumper Wire, Connect Fuel Pump Test Conn. (per CF that was space G in the ALDL) to 12 volts
-Does Pump Run?
Result: Yes
-Ign "Off"
-Disconnect Fuel Pump Relay
-Probe CKT 340 (per CF that is the Orange Wire in Position E in the Connector to the Fuel Pump Relay) with a Test Light (I used my volt meter) to Ground
Result: Got over 12 volts = Light "On"
-Connect Test Light (my volt meter) between CKTS 340 (Orange wire) and 450 (Black w/white ground)
Result: Got over 12 volts = Light "On"
-Connect Test Light (my volt meter) between Harness CKT 465 (Green w/white wire) and Ground
-Ign "Off" for 10 seconds
-Note Test Light (my volt meter) within 2 second after Ign "On"
Result: Within 2 seconds over 12 volts for about 4 seconds = Light "On"
-Faulty Relay
-If Original Symptom was "Engine Cranks But Will Not Run" (yes that is so, but I can get it to runs when accelerater is pressed during cranking) Continue Test of Oil Pressure Switch
- Engine at Normal Operating Temperature
-Oil Pressure Normal
-Disconnect Fuel Pump Relay. Engine should Continue to Run, Does it?
Result: Yes
-Reconnect Fuel Pump Relay
-Ign "Off"
-Probe Fuel Pump Test Terminal (G in ALDL) with a Test Light to Ground
Result: 0.01 volts if that means Light is "On" then... per FSM: Faulty Oil Pressure Switch
OR
Result: If 0.01 would not be enough to Light a Test Light then... Fuel Pump Circuit OK
Problem/Test Results: I made it through the entire Code 54 FSM flow chart to the bottom with a digital volt meter instead of a test light, soooo.... the results was 0.01 DC volts. Does that low of voltage qualify as the Test Light being "On" therefore I need to change the Oil Pressure Switch? Or do I "back-up" 1 step and replace the Fuel Pump Relay also?
Situation: Using the 1987 FSM pages 6E3-A-60 (dated 4-4-86) & 6E3-A-61 (dated 4-24-86) these were my results:
BLOW BY BLOW (Flow Chart Results)
- Ign "Off" for 10 seconds
- Ign "On"
- Listen for In-Tank Fuel Pump
- Pump Should Run for 2 seconds After Ign "On"
Result: No
-Ign "Off"
-Using A Fused Jumper Wire, Connect Fuel Pump Test Conn. (per CF that was space G in the ALDL) to 12 volts
-Does Pump Run?
Result: Yes
-Ign "Off"
-Disconnect Fuel Pump Relay
-Probe CKT 340 (per CF that is the Orange Wire in Position E in the Connector to the Fuel Pump Relay) with a Test Light (I used my volt meter) to Ground
Result: Got over 12 volts = Light "On"
-Connect Test Light (my volt meter) between CKTS 340 (Orange wire) and 450 (Black w/white ground)
Result: Got over 12 volts = Light "On"
-Connect Test Light (my volt meter) between Harness CKT 465 (Green w/white wire) and Ground
-Ign "Off" for 10 seconds
-Note Test Light (my volt meter) within 2 second after Ign "On"
Result: Within 2 seconds over 12 volts for about 4 seconds = Light "On"
-Faulty Relay
-If Original Symptom was "Engine Cranks But Will Not Run" (yes that is so, but I can get it to runs when accelerater is pressed during cranking) Continue Test of Oil Pressure Switch
- Engine at Normal Operating Temperature
-Oil Pressure Normal
-Disconnect Fuel Pump Relay. Engine should Continue to Run, Does it?
Result: Yes
-Reconnect Fuel Pump Relay
-Ign "Off"
-Probe Fuel Pump Test Terminal (G in ALDL) with a Test Light to Ground
Result: 0.01 volts if that means Light is "On" then... per FSM: Faulty Oil Pressure Switch
OR
Result: If 0.01 would not be enough to Light a Test Light then... Fuel Pump Circuit OK
#2
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"-Disconnect Fuel Pump Relay. Engine should Continue to Run, Does it?
Result: Yes"
Show oil switch is all right, suplies power to pump direct bypassing relay.
Quick check , swap fan relay for pump relay (the same ) and see what you get. Assuming your fans work OK
Result: Yes"
Show oil switch is all right, suplies power to pump direct bypassing relay.
Quick check , swap fan relay for pump relay (the same ) and see what you get. Assuming your fans work OK
#3
Burning Brakes
.01 DC should be viewed as "background" voltage for anything less than electronic circuits (ecm signals). Electrical circuits (relays, lights, etc) need much higher voltage/amperage to operate.
Side note: I mentor young Army mechanics in their craft. Years ago the Army "upgraded" their toolboxes by dropping the old proven test light and adding a digital multi-meter. This has been a real PITA trying to troubleshoot light circuits as most issues are due to poor grounding. A multi-meter will show goodbattery voltage even though the resistance is so poor a test light will indicate a bad circuit.
PS. I replaced my oil pressure switch last year as I was having some flakey pump power issues. After searching for a loose/bad wire (intermittent problem) I finally gave up and replaced the OP switch. (It was cheap enough, I didn't care at that point). The flakey-ness disappeared. To access the switch I pulled the distributor cap for more room and put a wrench on it from the passenger side.
Side note: I mentor young Army mechanics in their craft. Years ago the Army "upgraded" their toolboxes by dropping the old proven test light and adding a digital multi-meter. This has been a real PITA trying to troubleshoot light circuits as most issues are due to poor grounding. A multi-meter will show goodbattery voltage even though the resistance is so poor a test light will indicate a bad circuit.
PS. I replaced my oil pressure switch last year as I was having some flakey pump power issues. After searching for a loose/bad wire (intermittent problem) I finally gave up and replaced the OP switch. (It was cheap enough, I didn't care at that point). The flakey-ness disappeared. To access the switch I pulled the distributor cap for more room and put a wrench on it from the passenger side.
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But since the connectors are the same and interchangeable I did swap them. Turned the key and ZIIIINNGGGGG! I heard the fuel pump when I turned the Ign "On"
So I suppose I'll buy a new Fuel Pump Relay?
#6
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.01 DC should be viewed as "background" voltage for anything less than electronic circuits (ecm signals). Electrical circuits (relays, lights, etc) need much higher voltage/amperage to operate.
Side note: I mentor young Army mechanics in their craft. Years ago the Army "upgraded" their toolboxes by dropping the old proven test light and adding a digital multi-meter. This has been a real PITA trying to troubleshoot light circuits as most issues are due to poor grounding. A multi-meter will show goodbattery voltage even though the resistance is so poor a test light will indicate a bad circuit.
PS. I replaced my oil pressure switch last year as I was having some flakey pump power issues. After searching for a loose/bad wire (intermittent problem) I finally gave up and replaced the OP switch. (It was cheap enough, I didn't care at that point). The flakey-ness disappeared. To access the switch I pulled the distributor cap for more room and put a wrench on it from the passenger side.
Side note: I mentor young Army mechanics in their craft. Years ago the Army "upgraded" their toolboxes by dropping the old proven test light and adding a digital multi-meter. This has been a real PITA trying to troubleshoot light circuits as most issues are due to poor grounding. A multi-meter will show goodbattery voltage even though the resistance is so poor a test light will indicate a bad circuit.
PS. I replaced my oil pressure switch last year as I was having some flakey pump power issues. After searching for a loose/bad wire (intermittent problem) I finally gave up and replaced the OP switch. (It was cheap enough, I didn't care at that point). The flakey-ness disappeared. To access the switch I pulled the distributor cap for more room and put a wrench on it from the passenger side.
#7
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This edit added late in the day after I installed the new Relay:
No codes, the old 87 is running fine now. Thanks to you all again!
Gene
Last edited by Jacki&GeneZ16; 07-23-2008 at 01:09 AM. Reason: Finalizing the thread, success!
#8
Drifting
fuel and fan relay...
I have searched for this and didn't find what I was looking for. Could someone tell me where the fuel and fan relays are? I think the fan relay is the one by the wiper motor. I can't find where the fuel pump relay is. I have a FSM but couldn't find it under the fuel section. I just got it so I am trying to familiarize myself with it. The car is an 84, any help with pics would be helpful...thanks..
disregard this post here, I thought I posted a new thread..my apologies to the original poster...
disregard this post here, I thought I posted a new thread..my apologies to the original poster...
Last edited by DA1984VETTE; 06-04-2011 at 01:24 AM.