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Flushing brake fluid eveythings fine then no pedal..i believe the piston in the M/C stuck downstream.It's my 95' with 58K miles but I suspect crud build up from previous owner maybe not flushing the fluid regularly Anyway of getting it back up other than taking it off and pull the plunger back up?
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Any chance it's something else?
Is the brake light on (usually comes on if their is unequal pressure front vs rear).
Did the fluid in the MC get too low so that the prime pipe to the ABS unit went dry?
Did you first bleed the ABS unit?
Any chance the wheel bleeding sequence was not correct for your year and the problem is in the ABS unit and not the MC? (e.g. for our 94 LT1 it is rr, lr, rf, lf -- however, I thought they changed the ABS unit in 95, so your order might be different)
Are you bleeding the ol' fashion way or with a power-bleeder or vacume-pump?
I bet there is an air bubble in the master.
Bleed the mater, then do a normal bleed at the calipers. I bet it tightens the pedal right up.
Your best bet to bleed brakes w/o damaging the master by depressing the seals past years of neglect and ruining them is to use a vacuum bleeder at the calipers.
It will pull the fluid through the system. I have seen too many masters to count damaged by people repeatedly depressing the pedal to the floor.
I have a pnuematic bleeder called a vacula, but you can get hand pump models at the auto parts store at very inexpensive prices.
Well thanx guys for your input.The resevoir never went dry. No chance of air in the M/C. I frmly believe it's just 13 years of neglect as Ed mentioned.The piston is just stuck in all the crud. I ordered a new M/C .might not be a bad idea after all. It may have started leaking anyway.
Thanx for your input.
It can be bought cheaper at some other sites and there is a cheaper model that isn't rebuildable.
However, if the system is full of crud, you don't want to use a bleeder-injector to force the crud back upstream.
I recommend a complete flush down-stream and then you could use injection bleeding upstream.
By all means, make sure the master cylinder is bled first.