Is my 160 Thermostat Functioning Correctly? Pics Inside.
#1
Le Mans Master
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Is my 160 Thermostat Functioning Correctly? Pics Inside.
I know it is hard for some of you to resist but please no opinions on why you think I should be using a higher temp stat. I tested my hypertech 160 degree thermostat out today. It started to slowly open around 170 deg. The most it opened was maybe about a 1/4 inch, if that. Is it functioning correctly? Is that all it is supposed to open? Here's some pics. Thanks
Before...
After...
One more question. Is it safe to still use my thermometer for cooking. I didn't really clean the antifreeze off the thermostat but it was dry when I began.
Before...
After...
One more question. Is it safe to still use my thermometer for cooking. I didn't really clean the antifreeze off the thermostat but it was dry when I began.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; 05-06-2011 at 12:05 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
It should be okay opening only 1/4", that is enough to have good flow thru the system.
Your thermometer should only be used for rectal applications in the future
Your thermometer should only be used for rectal applications in the future
#5
Burning Brakes
It's opening as far as is ought to, yes. It's opening Late though. It Ought to be beginning to come off the seat at the 160 mark, and ought to be nearly Closed again (as the water cools off) when the temp has dropped back Down to 160. Looks to me like the particular 'stat you have there is going to want to hold the engine temp closer to 170 than 160 - assuming that the fans come on at 160, that you have enough airflow, etc.
Tested like you are doing it on a stove a thermostat will usually be "sticky" and not operate smoothly. Don't forget it's getting Vibrated in a running motor..
Individual mass produced thermostats do vary some in the precise point they operate at. Working at a garage you see that, and I've sorted through several before getting one that did what I wanted, for myself.
Oh. Another thing. The size of the "bleed hole" in that thing is Waay too large. It's going to take the motor a Really long time to warm up with that much coolant circulating while the 'stat is Shut. Just a tiny hole is all it should have, just enough to pass trapped air, that's all...
Tested like you are doing it on a stove a thermostat will usually be "sticky" and not operate smoothly. Don't forget it's getting Vibrated in a running motor..
Individual mass produced thermostats do vary some in the precise point they operate at. Working at a garage you see that, and I've sorted through several before getting one that did what I wanted, for myself.
Oh. Another thing. The size of the "bleed hole" in that thing is Waay too large. It's going to take the motor a Really long time to warm up with that much coolant circulating while the 'stat is Shut. Just a tiny hole is all it should have, just enough to pass trapped air, that's all...
#6
Safety Car
I see you added a "burp" hole......I added a couple to one of stats and the car would never get warm in cooler weather...IMHO a burp hole is neither needed nor desirable
http://www.motoradusa.com/partinfo.p...Number=307-160
Personally I would just replace yours as it appears to be old and getting slow & lazy..BTW I have number 3 in my car now, none of them really broke.
#7
Le Mans Master
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Thanks for the info. It's a hypertech 160 degree stat for the LT1 Corvette. It actually came with the hole already there. I didnt modify it at all. It did appear to be a little slow on opening but it wasnt 100% submerged at first. A small piece of it was above water before I added a bit more. I also had the thermometer resting on the very botom of the pan so it may have been a bit hotter than the stat. Taking all that into account I think it may be ok or just slightly off. I'd say the thermostat is probably about 3- 4 years old.
#8
Safety Car
In the location where yours has a hole, both of mine have a small brass plug that appears to act like a directional check valve.
I am also looking at the factory original 180 stat and that part of the stat is solid..no holes or directional check valve.
Unless Hypertech(Motorad) changed their design yours is missing that little brass check valve..
BTW these are all for my 1996 LT4 which should be the same as LT1
#9
Drifting
the pics show the thermometer resting on the bottom of the pan...
#10
Drifting
I am looking at two Hypertech 160 thermostats.....
In the location where yours has a hole, both of mine have a small brass plug that appears to act like a directional check valve.
I am also looking at the factory original 180 stat and that part of the stat is solid..no holes or directional check valve.
Unless Hypertech(Motorad) changed their design yours is missing that little brass check valve..
In the location where yours has a hole, both of mine have a small brass plug that appears to act like a directional check valve.
I am also looking at the factory original 180 stat and that part of the stat is solid..no holes or directional check valve.
Unless Hypertech(Motorad) changed their design yours is missing that little brass check valve..
#13
I know it is hard for some of you to resist but please no opinions on why you think I should be using a higher temp stat. I tested my hypertech 160 degree thermostat out today. It started to slowly open around 170 deg. The most it opened was maybe about a 1/4 inch, if that. Is it functioning correctly? Is that all it is supposed to open? Here's some pics. Thanks
Before...
After...
One more question. Is it safe to still use my thermometer for cooking. I didn't really clean the antifreeze off the thermostat but it was dry when I began.
Before...
After...
One more question. Is it safe to still use my thermometer for cooking. I didn't really clean the antifreeze off the thermostat but it was dry when I began.
Put´s another meaning to the word COOLANT and ANTIFREEZE. Oh kick me now.
By the way, do you have a performance chip for your performance pan as well, yihaaw I can´t help myself.:o
#14
Le Mans Master
It's called a jiggle valve. It's what allows the air trapped in the system to get to the highest point. Some simply have holes, some have the jiggle valve. If you don't have a way for air to bleed past the t-stat, in certain applications the t-stat will not open in time to save the motor because all that would be under it would be air, not coolant.
This is a ol' school mod (one or multiple holes were drilled into the T stat) that manufacturers / people have adapted to over time. It makes burbing the air from the system a easy too.
#15
Le Mans Master
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Yeah, well the only thing should be that your wife´s butt doesn´t freeze that fast when she´s been digesting antifreeze . HHHHmmm (maybe that´s the problem with many women´s behinds, they forgot to check the antifreeze "down under").
Put´s another meaning to the word COOLANT and ANTIFREEZE. Oh kick me now.
By the way, do you have a performance chip for your performance pan as well, yihaaw I can´t help myself.:o
Put´s another meaning to the word COOLANT and ANTIFREEZE. Oh kick me now.
By the way, do you have a performance chip for your performance pan as well, yihaaw I can´t help myself.:o
So where's the cheapest place to get a replacement 160 stat for the oddball reverse cooling LT1? I think the hypertech was around 30 something or so.