What's causing my rear to scoot sideways??
#21
Max G’s
Synthetic lube and Conventional lube have the same lubrication properties. The difference in synthetic and conventional is the boiling point. Synthetic lube has a lot higher resistance to heat than conventional lubes which is why it will last so much longer before the lubricating characteristics begin to diminish.
#22
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2000
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The beam plates prevent / reduce this by giving the bolts a greater clamping area on the beam .
Worked for me
#23
Instructor
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My '95 never did this until I replaced the auto tranny (a couple of weeks ago). Now the rear end scoots like a son of a bI%$ on hard-throttle 1-2 upshifts with ASR turned off. It also does it when I nail a big downshift (hit the meat of the power band).
It does the scoot to the extent that I'd be afraid of it in the rain (haven't driven in rain since the tranny swap).
I think that it is plausible that I damaged something or other during the job, but I can't think of what that might be.
Judging by what could have changed I'd eliminate tire size, tire inflation, rear-end lube, and maybe more of what people are throwing around out there on this thread.
BTW: I was amazed to find a post like this.
It does the scoot to the extent that I'd be afraid of it in the rain (haven't driven in rain since the tranny swap).
I think that it is plausible that I damaged something or other during the job, but I can't think of what that might be.
Judging by what could have changed I'd eliminate tire size, tire inflation, rear-end lube, and maybe more of what people are throwing around out there on this thread.
BTW: I was amazed to find a post like this.
Last edited by El T1; 12-08-2008 at 10:51 PM. Reason: mo info
#24
Melting Slicks
My '95 never did this until I replaced the auto tranny (a couple of weeks ago). Now the rear end scoots like a son of a bI%$ on hard-throttle 1-2 upshifts with ASR turned off. It also does it when I nail a big downshift (hit the meat of the power band).
It does the scoot to the extent that I'd be afraid of it in the rain (haven't driven in rain since the tranny swap).
I think that it is plausible that I damaged something or other during the job, but I can't think of what that might be.
Judging by what could have changed I'd eliminate tire size, tire inflation, rear-end lube, and maybe more of what people are throwing around out there on this thread.
BTW: I was amazed to find a post like this.
It does the scoot to the extent that I'd be afraid of it in the rain (haven't driven in rain since the tranny swap).
I think that it is plausible that I damaged something or other during the job, but I can't think of what that might be.
Judging by what could have changed I'd eliminate tire size, tire inflation, rear-end lube, and maybe more of what people are throwing around out there on this thread.
BTW: I was amazed to find a post like this.
#25
Race Director
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My '92 A4 does the same thing. Not as pronounced since I had a new tranny put in but it still does it enough that you can feel it. Usually when you're going above 40 MPH hour you can blip the throttle and the rear end wants to slide to the right some. Its not a traction issue.
#26
Melting Slicks
My '92 A4 does the same thing. Not as pronounced since I had a new tranny put in but it still does it enough that you can feel it. Usually when you're going above 40 MPH hour you can blip the throttle and the rear end wants to slide to the right some. Its not a traction issue.
Sounds like a common issue. I think that I will pay more attention, maybe it is worn bushings and I assume that it is traction
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
I got an informative email from ZF Doc Bill Boudreau on this
... and I think Bill wouldn't mind me posting info that may be useful to others:
Hi Bart,
Something is likely allowing the rear thrust angle alignment of the wheels to deviate momentarily when applying power. The trailing arms and axle tie rod assembly would normally be my first point of focus when troubleshooting this problem. Since you have already addressed the trailing arms, it is more than likely that the tie rod assembly is causing/allowing this problem to occur. Be sure to remove the spare tire and spare tire holder if possible before bringing it back in tomorrow so that the alignment technician can get a better view of the tie rod inner link assembly for excessive play. This is likely where the problem will be.
I read through the thread on corvetteforum and wanted to mention to you that the use of mobil gear lube and additive is very good. The one gentleman addressing the tie rod condition (inner especially) I believe is spot on regarding the problem. As far as missing needle bearings in your new u-joints, I wouldn’t imagine that would be the case here.
Good luck with the search.
You can call me if you need quicker response on questions.
Best regards,
Bill Boudreau
ZR51 Performance
(602) 319-6575
Hi Bart,
Something is likely allowing the rear thrust angle alignment of the wheels to deviate momentarily when applying power. The trailing arms and axle tie rod assembly would normally be my first point of focus when troubleshooting this problem. Since you have already addressed the trailing arms, it is more than likely that the tie rod assembly is causing/allowing this problem to occur. Be sure to remove the spare tire and spare tire holder if possible before bringing it back in tomorrow so that the alignment technician can get a better view of the tie rod inner link assembly for excessive play. This is likely where the problem will be.
I read through the thread on corvetteforum and wanted to mention to you that the use of mobil gear lube and additive is very good. The one gentleman addressing the tie rod condition (inner especially) I believe is spot on regarding the problem. As far as missing needle bearings in your new u-joints, I wouldn’t imagine that would be the case here.
Good luck with the search.
You can call me if you need quicker response on questions.
Best regards,
Bill Boudreau
ZR51 Performance
(602) 319-6575
#30
Instructor
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I also notice that a lot of LT1 cars ('94-'96) seem to have this. That would lead me to believe in a common failure mode.
I've thought this through and came up with a theory:
1. I had no such problem EVER before I swapped my tranny.
2. Big problem after. IMO, can't be the tranny, as that only supplies rotation to the driveshaft--so what is it?
Well, my '95, being an LT1, has a bunch of exhaust system in the way of jacking up the rear end via the pumpkin. Because of that, I've jacked it up one side at a time in increments using the rear jack pads (just fwd of the rear tires) on the rocker panels. Screw that--takes forever.
Then I noticed that my jack fit under some suspension links/hardware, that hang down just to the driver's side of the differential. I jacked it up a couple of times using that. I probably bent something....
#31
Le Mans Master
WEll, if you are talking about the rear of the entire car moving sideways while doing burnouts, my car does that all the time. When the rear breaks loose, and the road is sloped, the car tends to slide to the side of the road due to gravity.
Now if your limited slip rear is all worn out, and not positraction anymore, you will get a funny feeling when the slipping rear tire has suddenly found it's traction.
It sort of feels like the car jerks "back in line" with the direction of travel.
My 57 does it all the time (well, when I'm doin' burnouts) The 86 vette does that when in a turn.
Now if your limited slip rear is all worn out, and not positraction anymore, you will get a funny feeling when the slipping rear tire has suddenly found it's traction.
It sort of feels like the car jerks "back in line" with the direction of travel.
My 57 does it all the time (well, when I'm doin' burnouts) The 86 vette does that when in a turn.
#32
Max G’s
Sideways Scoot
I have a 91 auto and 6spd and never have had this problem unless hard on it and loose traction and even then the limited slip works excellent to compensate. Could this problem be limited to the Traction Control System on the 92 to 96 year model cars?
Hope you guys can find your problem. Good Luck.
Hope you guys can find your problem. Good Luck.
#33
Instructor
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question for the OP and others experiencing this issue.
when you raise up the backend of your vehicle, does the wheel on the side that the vehicle is pulling to set higher than the other?
when you raise up the backend of your vehicle, does the wheel on the side that the vehicle is pulling to set higher than the other?
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
I will say that, when the car was up on the lift & they were replacing all of the suspension parts I listed earlier, I do recall the wheel/suspension seem to "droop" more on one side.
Don't know if that's because of what they were doing to one side at the time.
Now that it's back in for its 500 mile check up & dyno tuning, I'll ask them to note that.
Although it's doing substantially the same "scoot" it did before all of the suspension work noted earlier.
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
c4cruiser, Vader & ZF Doc were right...
...it was a worn inner toe rod.
My sincere thanks to c4cruiser, Vader & Bill Boudreau
for helping me focus on the likely problem area.
My sincere thanks to c4cruiser, Vader & Bill Boudreau
for helping me focus on the likely problem area.
Last edited by 89FX3; 12-17-2008 at 11:45 AM.
#36
Team Owner
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I had that problem with my 95, it was aligned various times but it stopped once I lowered I noticed the right rear sat higher than the left rear. I lowered/right monospring and it sits leveled. The problem went away.
#37
Burning Brakes
Congratulations for finding the problem. I wonder if it is reasonable to assume that a worn inner tie rod should be the first thing to check for others having this problem? Anyway, since the "scoot" seems to be fairly common, perhaps it would be a good idea to post this information as a sticky or in the C4 Tech Info section.
Doug
Doug
#38
Whenever I shift or apply throttle on my 1996 CE/LT4 6 speed coupe, the rear end scoots to one side and then corrects back to center. This is more pronounced above 60 mph and is ocurring even after installing new:
rear differential, positraction, bearings & yokes;
drive shaft u joints;
ZFdoc C Beam beam plates;
Dennys half shafts w/ u joints;
rear spring, QA1 shocks & Baniski trailing arm; and
rear wheel bearings.
I'm to understand that this can ocurr if your C Beam is loose, but mine should be tight as a drum.
Any informed thoughts on what might be causing it would be appreciated.
rear differential, positraction, bearings & yokes;
drive shaft u joints;
ZFdoc C Beam beam plates;
Dennys half shafts w/ u joints;
rear spring, QA1 shocks & Baniski trailing arm; and
rear wheel bearings.
I'm to understand that this can ocurr if your C Beam is loose, but mine should be tight as a drum.
Any informed thoughts on what might be causing it would be appreciated.
#39
Melting Slicks