clutch question
1. what is the difference between stage one, stage two and so on.
2. what brand of clutch should i go with.
3. should i replace the fly wheel.
4. what else while i am down their should i be checking, or replacing.
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1. what is the difference between stage one, stage two and so on.
2. what brand of clutch should i go with.
3. should i replace the fly wheel.
4. what else while i am down their should i be checking, or replacing.
52mm TB
EWP
3 inch B&B Exhaust
cut air box
1.6 roller rockers that still need to be installed, but im waiting till i pick up some new heads. I have alot of work to do restoring/upgrading her, and in the end i would like to obtain about 375-400 hp. i have only scratched the surface of my ongoing build.
1. what is the difference between stage one, stage two and so on.
2. what brand of clutch should i go with.
3. should i replace the fly wheel.
4. what else while i am down their should i be checking, or replacing.
1. If you're gonna push the hp/torque into the range you're shooting for with your LT1, you'll probably need to put in a single mass/ Stage 2 or greater flywheel/ clutch combo. I have: a stage 2 clutch/ SPEC steel single mass (ssm) flywheel in my 89 383 stroker; and a Stage 3/ SPEC ssm in my 96 396 stroker. The Stage 3 clutch is a little more grabby so it is not as street-friendly as the Stage 2 clutch, but it isn't really a big hassle once you get use to it. The "rocks in a can" ZF6 rattle that you'll get w/ a single mass flywheel will be much more distracting to you than the Stage 3 clutch grabbiness .
2. Numerous brands to choose from (McCleod, SPEC, Centerforce, etc) but just make sure you don't 1) buy a clutch that requires a different flywheel then you install (single mass vs dual mass), or 2) buy a no name one that can't take the abuse you'll be giving it.
3. Yes.
4. With the high mileage you have on your car, expect to need to replace the clutch hydraulics, fork & pivot bolt.
Last edited by 89FX3; Dec 11, 2008 at 01:43 PM.






