1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades?
01-22-2002, 11:56 AM
#1
Racer
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1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades?
Can anyone tell me the Pros and Cons of adding the Throttle Body Bypass and Airfoil upgrades? I have seen the kits on ebay for 5-10 bucks.
Thanks Max :flag
Thanks Max :flag
01-22-2002, 12:19 PM
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (MaddMaxx)
Most people, myself included would say forget about the airfoil, doesn't do a thing. The TB bypass is free and worthwhile. Just disconnect the 2 small coolant hoses from the TB and connect the hose from the drivers side onto the pipe where the passenger side just came off. You have bypassed the TB. To clean things up you can slip a couple of vacuum line plugs/nipples over the TB 'holes' and install better quality hose clamps if you like. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
01-22-2002, 12:27 PM
#3
Race Director
Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (Scooby)
Welcome Madd.
The TB bypass on the 96' is a freebee. Do it! No biggie. I wouldn't do the air foil myself. Seems several people have had thier engine digest the screw that holds the foil in place. Not to good !!!
Neal
The TB bypass on the 96' is a freebee. Do it! No biggie. I wouldn't do the air foil myself. Seems several people have had thier engine digest the screw that holds the foil in place. Not to good !!!
Neal
01-22-2002, 12:29 PM
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (Arisa)
airfoil is a waste of money, no one i know of has had a performance increase because of it, but you should do the bypass
01-22-2002, 03:24 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (vader86)
vist http://www.ws6.com for dyno sheet on airfoil and by-pass mods. Do the by-pass :yesnod:
01-22-2002, 04:47 PM
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (Scooby)
Most people, myself included would say forget about the airfoil, doesn't do a thing. The TB bypass is free and worthwhile. Just disconnect the 2 small coolant hoses from the TB and connect the hose from the drivers side onto the pipe where the passenger side just came off. You have bypassed the TB. To clean things up you can slip a couple of vacuum line plugs/nipples over the TB 'holes' and install better quality hose clamps if you like. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
01-22-2002, 11:26 PM
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (Scooby)
You can get them at Eckler's and Mid America Designs, Inc. Mid America is about $3 or $4 cheaper. The are "self sticking". Just clean the area with windex or ammonia, etc. to clean the wax off the paint.
01-23-2002, 12:08 AM
#9
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (MaddMaxx)
I say go for it!
Air foil- Its an increase in HP you wont feel on the road but your throttle response is crisper. Plus when combined with a nice intake your sure to perform better than stock. I had mine machined so its very smooth. The air foil usually comes with a rough texture which hinders the air travel.
Air will now rush in with a guided flow thus making the air meter adjust accordingly with the balanced air travel.
BYPASS TB- Your TB will be about 20 deg cooler thus o2 is more condense so it will burn more efficiently which will lead t more HP!
Gotta love physics and chemistry! :cheers:
[Modified by eamador11, 10:12 PM 1/22/2002]
Air foil- Its an increase in HP you wont feel on the road but your throttle response is crisper. Plus when combined with a nice intake your sure to perform better than stock. I had mine machined so its very smooth. The air foil usually comes with a rough texture which hinders the air travel.
Air will now rush in with a guided flow thus making the air meter adjust accordingly with the balanced air travel.
BYPASS TB- Your TB will be about 20 deg cooler thus o2 is more condense so it will burn more efficiently which will lead t more HP!
Gotta love physics and chemistry! :cheers:
[Modified by eamador11, 10:12 PM 1/22/2002]
01-26-2002, 04:39 PM
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (eamador11)
Does anyone have before/after pics of the bypass. I would like to do this to my LT1 but I want to make sure I'm doing it right. It sounds simple enough but I would feel better if I could SEE it. Thanks.
01-26-2002, 07:27 PM
#11
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (MaddMaxx)
You won't gain a thing with the airfoil except a lighter wallet, cheaper to buy me lunch!
The TB bypass is a freebie. I still haven't gotten around to it, but I'm a lazy bastard.
The TB bypass is a freebie. I still haven't gotten around to it, but I'm a lazy bastard.
01-26-2002, 07:42 PM
#12
Team Owner
Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (MaddMaxx)
Why do you think JUNK like that is on e-bay for sale in the first place?????????????????
01-26-2002, 08:44 PM
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Re: 1996 LT4 Airfoil and Throttle Body Bypass upgrades? (TorchRedXCVI)
I don't have any pictures, but let me add some details, if there are any helpful ones, to my abbove directions. If you are standing in front of your car there are two small hoses coming out of the TB one on the driver's side and one on the pax side. They are on the bottom front of the TB. The one going to the driver side (on my 96) originates from a 'T' that flows from the radiator and runs to the TB, just follow it around to the TB. On the pax side it will exit, make a 90 and run a few inches towards the back of the car and connect to a metal tube (once again on a 96).
Now, make sure the engine is cool :-) then take the pressure off the system by taking the cap off the radiator fill point. You will still leak a some fluid when you pull the lines, so make sure you have some extra around. Disconnect both of the lines from the TB, the clamps and the hose can be stubborn. Since you are going to throw away the pax side, you can just cut that one off with a razor blade. On the driver, go ahead and cut that one at the clamp as well, since you will have plenty of spare length. Just don't get carried away. Now take the hose that came off the Driver's side and slip it on the pax side 'metal' line (tube). There is plenty left to route it from the 'T' directly back to the tube. You can re-use the old clamp or put on a new one. As I said before, I put a couple of vacuum line nipplies to cover the old tips coming from the sides of the TB for looks.
Now refill the lost fluid and you are done.
Good luck, If I can handle this one anyone can! :)
Now, make sure the engine is cool :-) then take the pressure off the system by taking the cap off the radiator fill point. You will still leak a some fluid when you pull the lines, so make sure you have some extra around. Disconnect both of the lines from the TB, the clamps and the hose can be stubborn. Since you are going to throw away the pax side, you can just cut that one off with a razor blade. On the driver, go ahead and cut that one at the clamp as well, since you will have plenty of spare length. Just don't get carried away. Now take the hose that came off the Driver's side and slip it on the pax side 'metal' line (tube). There is plenty left to route it from the 'T' directly back to the tube. You can re-use the old clamp or put on a new one. As I said before, I put a couple of vacuum line nipplies to cover the old tips coming from the sides of the TB for looks.
Now refill the lost fluid and you are done.
Good luck, If I can handle this one anyone can! :)
02-03-2015, 12:09 AM
#15
Instructor
I don't have any pictures, but let me add some details, if there are any helpful ones, to my abbove directions. If you are standing in front of your car there are two small hoses coming out of the TB one on the driver's side and one on the pax side. They are on the bottom front of the TB. The one going to the driver side (on my 96) originates from a 'T' that flows from the radiator and runs to the TB, just follow it around to the TB. On the pax side it will exit, make a 90 and run a few inches towards the back of the car and connect to a metal tube (once again on a 96).
Now, make sure the engine is cool :-) then take the pressure off the system by taking the cap off the radiator fill point. You will still leak a some fluid when you pull the lines, so make sure you have some extra around. Disconnect both of the lines from the TB, the clamps and the hose can be stubborn. Since you are going to throw away the pax side, you can just cut that one off with a razor blade. On the driver, go ahead and cut that one at the clamp as well, since you will have plenty of spare length. Just don't get carried away. Now take the hose that came off the Driver's side and slip it on the pax side 'metal' line (tube). There is plenty left to route it from the 'T' directly back to the tube. You can re-use the old clamp or put on a new one. As I said before, I put a couple of vacuum line nipplies to cover the old tips coming from the sides of the TB for looks.
Now refill the lost fluid and you are done.
Good luck, If I can handle this one anyone can!
Now, make sure the engine is cool :-) then take the pressure off the system by taking the cap off the radiator fill point. You will still leak a some fluid when you pull the lines, so make sure you have some extra around. Disconnect both of the lines from the TB, the clamps and the hose can be stubborn. Since you are going to throw away the pax side, you can just cut that one off with a razor blade. On the driver, go ahead and cut that one at the clamp as well, since you will have plenty of spare length. Just don't get carried away. Now take the hose that came off the Driver's side and slip it on the pax side 'metal' line (tube). There is plenty left to route it from the 'T' directly back to the tube. You can re-use the old clamp or put on a new one. As I said before, I put a couple of vacuum line nipplies to cover the old tips coming from the sides of the TB for looks.
Now refill the lost fluid and you are done.
Good luck, If I can handle this one anyone can!
02-03-2015, 04:59 PM
#16
LT1 IAC housing
Simple Demo
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 02-03-2015 at 05:06 PM.
02-04-2015, 11:15 AM
#17
GM decided to add the coolant to the bottom of the IAC housing to prevent freezing?? I have yet to ever have this happen. When stock or highly moded. From all of my TPI TA's now my 3rd LT1 C4. 1st how many really drive in the winter. Except a few in the forums??? bypassing, will allow slightly more pressure. This will reduce your AIT temp level. also a slight increase in performance! allowing more timing. As in any change to take full effect, re-tuning will give you max performance. but not necessary.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 02-04-2015 at 01:02 PM.
02-04-2015, 08:57 PM
#18
Instructor
GM decided to add the coolant to the bottom of the IAC housing to prevent freezing?? I have yet to ever have this happen. When stock or highly moded. From all of my TPI TA's now my 3rd LT1 C4. 1st how many really drive in the winter. Except a few in the forums??? bypassing, will allow slightly more pressure. This will reduce your AIT temp level. also a slight increase in performance! allowing more timing. As in any change to take full effect, re-tuning will give you max performance. but not necessary.
Thanks
Russell
02-04-2015, 09:36 PM
#19
Sorry Re-tuned = changing the PCM parameters such as timing curve MAF mass air flow curve.
This you will not be able to do without. Software, cables to hookup to a laptop. And tuning knowledge.
Or a wide band O2 best Dyno tuning.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 02-04-2015 at 09:44 PM.
02-04-2015, 10:24 PM
#20
Instructor
HVAC you can absolutely relate to this. In essence you are a mechanic. In short, reducing the intake Air temp by removing hot coolant from underneath. The PCM "computer" will not deduct as much timing Resulting in a slight performance gain.
Sorry Re-tuned = changing the PCM parameters such as timing curve MAF mass air flow curve.
This you will not be able to do without. Software, cables to hookup to a laptop. And tuning knowledge.
Or a wide band O2 best Dyno tuning.
Sorry Re-tuned = changing the PCM parameters such as timing curve MAF mass air flow curve.
This you will not be able to do without. Software, cables to hookup to a laptop. And tuning knowledge.
Or a wide band O2 best Dyno tuning.
Hey, thanks for your input and advice.