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I don't think so John. I don't think the resulting change in duration will make that big a difference in your idle characteristics to warrant an ECM change, but if you need to up your idle, I've got LT1 edit and am only a phone call away :D
Go for it "ILLEGAL" :cheers:
Now if you were going to put in the Hot Cam then you'd have to :smash:
You car originally came with RR's? An LT4?
The only thing I had a small issue with was that my old L98 didn't come from the factory with RR's and the knock sensor was picking up a little knock sound from the RR's. Thanx to 65Z01(James) Tech tip, I updated the module to an LT4 module. No more issues! :)
I did the same on my 91 L 98 and asked Ed Wright if I needed a new chip. He said no, I would be okay. With Ed selling chips it seems like an honest answer because he could have said yes and hit me up for another $150 but he didn't. Thanks Ed.
I used air to hold the valves while I pulled the springs/retainers off.
New seals are less than $20/set - why not change them? In fact, I'd have two sets in hand, in case you drop/mangle any of the small pieces while you are in there. Also, make sure there are a couple of extra valve locks in your new set - those things become invisible once you drop one.
In addition, I had a selection of shims on hand, and a spring height gage to make sure everything was properly set to the new spring spec.
The plugs I run now are AC's one step colder than stock - it seemed to help a little detonation I was seeing last summer, and they were not fouled at all when I pulled them this week.
John, are you going with the ProMagnums or are you going with self-aligning?
I agree on doing new upper & lower valve seals and on having a spring shim set and verniers and some spare keepers on hand before you start.
I used the rope trick and it worked very well though it's a pita cranking the motor by hand even with all the rockers loose. I used a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to locate just before TDC (you can see it move slightly as you hand crank the motor) and then ran the nylon rope in and hand cranked her up till tight. Compressed air should work better so long as you don't let pressure drop and a valve along with it.
I've heard there is a tool to slip over the crank shaft bolt (or to replace that bolt) to make turning the crank easier than with the stock bolt and a socket.
Once you get the valve covers off and the spark plugs out it should be cake.
Go for it. Like was said before, the system will compensate for itself. It is also a good idea to go ahead and change the valve stem seals. They last about 50K and while your there it is very little extra work to change them out.
Since I went to a solid roller cam, I found that the easiest way to adjust your valves and crank the motor over is with a $12 starter bump switch from Summit. Attach one end the the starter, one to the battery (+) and then you just push the button to turne the motor over. The elecric water pump also makes it impossible to get a wrench on the crank anyway so this is a real easy $12 purchase for me.
Go for it. Like was said before, the system will compensate for itself. It is also a good idea to go ahead and change the valve stem seals. They last about 50K and while your there it is very little extra work to change them out.
Since I went to a solid roller cam, I found that the easiest way to adjust your valves and crank the motor over is with a $12 starter bump switch from Summit. Attach one end the the starter, one to the battery (+) and then you just push the button to turne the motor over. The elecric water pump also makes it impossible to get a wrench on the crank anyway so this is a real easy $12 purchase for me.
Chris, this switch makes the starter run and turn it over one revolution or what?
John, A Little tip I've found usefull over the years, Spray a little carb cleaner on the valve retainers to loosen any varnish (with synthetic oil there should be very little) It will make the job a little easyer. :cheers: :seeya
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Vette92)
John's car only has 36,000 miles on it and can run 12.50s all day long and he knows how to drive it.
He wins more than his share of races. Thats why I wouldn't screw with it.
I only did mine because I had 93,000 miles on it and it was leaking oil like crazy. If it wasn't for that I'd still be running my stock combo. It's proven and it wins.
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