C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Going to 1.6 RR question?

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Old Jan 30, 2002 | 11:54 PM
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Default Going to 1.6 RR question?

I'm going to intall 1.6 RR & LT4 springs... will I need to have the computer reprogrammed ?
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 12:34 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)

I don't think so John. I don't think the resulting change in duration will make that big a difference in your idle characteristics to warrant an ECM change, but if you need to up your idle, I've got LT1 edit and am only a phone call away :D

Go for it "ILLEGAL" :cheers:

Now if you were going to put in the Hot Cam then you'd have to :smash:
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 12:38 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)


I'll give you an opinion after it stops raining - I just finished putting some 1.6's & new springs on mine about 2 hours ago (what a PITA).

It's pulling more air, but I won't be able to Diacom it to tell how much until the weather clears (& my hands heal up).

drj

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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 01:01 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (95BLKVette)

You don't NEED a reprogramming because of going to 1.6's. The MAF will sense the little bit of extra air that farther moving valves will allow.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 01:01 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)

John looks like you intend to break that 110mph barrier this season.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 02:02 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)

You car originally came with RR's? An LT4?
The only thing I had a small issue with was that my old L98 didn't come from the factory with RR's and the knock sensor was picking up a little knock sound from the RR's. Thanx to 65Z01(James) Tech tip, I updated the module to an LT4 module. No more issues! :)
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 02:33 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (89 Paul in cal)

Paul, glad that upgrade solved your problem; that Gordon realy knows his Vettes.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 02:38 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)

John,

I did the same on my 91 L 98 and asked Ed Wright if I needed a new chip. He said no, I would be okay. With Ed selling chips it seems like an honest answer because he could have said yes and hit me up for another $150 but he didn't. Thanks Ed.

Aloha,
Larry
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 09:56 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Larry Mackey)

Also I have 35,000 miles on it, ya think I'll need new valve seals... I was thinking of replacing them while its apart.

Also did you use compressed air to hold the valve up while changing the Rockers? & I'm planning on replacing the plugs with new original ACs ?





[Modified by Red96Coupe, 8:58 AM 1/31/2002]
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 10:14 AM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)

I changed mine a few weeks ago without a new chip and it runs great. I already had the standard Ed Wright chip.

I have used an air compressor before, but this time I used the 'rope in the cylinder' trick. I liked the rope trick better I think.

I didn't change the valve seals and wish I had. I get some smoke at startup sometimes now. I suggest new ones.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 12:08 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)


I used air to hold the valves while I pulled the springs/retainers off.

New seals are less than $20/set - why not change them? In fact, I'd have two sets in hand, in case you drop/mangle any of the small pieces while you are in there. Also, make sure there are a couple of extra valve locks in your new set - those things become invisible once you drop one.

In addition, I had a selection of shims on hand, and a spring height gage to make sure everything was properly set to the new spring spec.

The plugs I run now are AC's one step colder than stock - it seemed to help a little detonation I was seeing last summer, and they were not fouled at all when I pulled them this week.

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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 12:33 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Red96Coupe)

John, are you going with the ProMagnums or are you going with self-aligning?

I agree on doing new upper & lower valve seals and on having a spring shim set and verniers and some spare keepers on hand before you start.

I used the rope trick and it worked very well though it's a pita cranking the motor by hand even with all the rockers loose. I used a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to locate just before TDC (you can see it move slightly as you hand crank the motor) and then ran the nylon rope in and hand cranked her up till tight. Compressed air should work better so long as you don't let pressure drop and a valve along with it.

I've heard there is a tool to slip over the crank shaft bolt (or to replace that bolt) to make turning the crank easier than with the stock bolt and a socket.

Once you get the valve covers off and the spark plugs out it should be cake.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 02:12 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (65Z01)

Go for it. Like was said before, the system will compensate for itself. It is also a good idea to go ahead and change the valve stem seals. They last about 50K and while your there it is very little extra work to change them out.

Since I went to a solid roller cam, I found that the easiest way to adjust your valves and crank the motor over is with a $12 starter bump switch from Summit. Attach one end the the starter, one to the battery (+) and then you just push the button to turne the motor over. The elecric water pump also makes it impossible to get a wrench on the crank anyway so this is a real easy $12 purchase for me.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 03:28 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Vette92)

Go for it. Like was said before, the system will compensate for itself. It is also a good idea to go ahead and change the valve stem seals. They last about 50K and while your there it is very little extra work to change them out.

Since I went to a solid roller cam, I found that the easiest way to adjust your valves and crank the motor over is with a $12 starter bump switch from Summit. Attach one end the the starter, one to the battery (+) and then you just push the button to turne the motor over. The elecric water pump also makes it impossible to get a wrench on the crank anyway so this is a real easy $12 purchase for me.
Chris, this switch makes the starter run and turn it over one revolution or what?
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 04:33 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Glock'94)

Chris, this switch makes the starter run and turn it over one revolution or what?
It turns the motor as long as you have your finger holding the button down, or as long as your battery has juice (;)).

Chris
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 07:40 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Vette92)

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 07:57 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (mackeyred96)

John, A Little tip I've found usefull over the years, Spray a little carb cleaner on the valve retainers to loosen any varnish (with synthetic oil there should be very little) It will make the job a little easyer. :cheers: :seeya
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 07:59 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (ASRoff)

You must remember JP may still be able to open the hood but thats about it. ;)
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 08:13 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (mackeyred96)

I know he can wax with the best of them. Seen the video to prove it. I think it was someone else car too...hmm I wonder who's that was. ;)
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 08:22 PM
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Default Re: Going to 1.6 RR question? (Vette92)

John's car only has 36,000 miles on it and can run 12.50s all day long and he knows how to drive it.

He wins more than his share of races. Thats why I wouldn't screw with it.

I only did mine because I had 93,000 miles on it and it was leaking oil like crazy. If it wasn't for that I'd still be running my stock combo. It's proven and it wins.



[Modified by mackeyred96, 7:24 PM 1/31/2002]
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