Change clutch slave cylinder
07-08-2009, 06:01 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Change clutch slave cylinder
Has anyone changes the clutch slave cylinder on their C4? I have a 93 6 speed that I need to change.
I'm looking for a little "how to" from anyone who has done this before.
thanks
I'm looking for a little "how to" from anyone who has done this before.
thanks
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94bobvette (04-16-2017)
07-08-2009, 07:51 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Not really a big deal. Just make sure you get the piston in the center of the fork indentation when you put it in.
If it's off a little the clutch will be rock hard and the pedal won't move at all.
If it's off a little the clutch will be rock hard and the pedal won't move at all.
07-08-2009, 11:49 PM
#4
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
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Had to do it 2-3 times on our 94, so here's some suggestions:
0. Can be done by just jacking up the left (driver) side of the car (but be careful and use jack stands.
1. Buy 1qt container of clutch fluid from the dealer (it is better than any other 'brake fluid' for the clutch).
2. Suck out most of the fluid in the clutch master reservoir and replace with new, then reinstall the vapor barrier and cap so that it can reduce the leakage at the slave.
3. loosen the hose from the slave 'before' unbolting from the bell-housing.
4. unbolt slave, but be careful, do not suspend from the hose nor twist the hose nor kink the hose -- this is especially important as the stainless-steel braid can kink or worse puncture the rubber inner-hose.
6. remove the hose from the old slave.
7. let some of the fluid drip out of hose until it starts to look clear
8. reconnect the hose to the new slave, but don't tighten completely.
9. loosely install slave into bell-housing -- but first, look or feel into the openning and feel for where the fork is and its recess (within which the slave's nose rests). This will help you see/feel the insertion angle of the slave.
10. Once your sure it is properly installed, tighten slave bolts enough to hold slave in position while
11. tighten hose onto slave
12. open, top off clutch master with more new clutch fluid, close
13. loosen slave bleeder until some fluid comes out then lightly tighten
14. remove slave
15. hold bleeder end of slave upward as much as possible (be careful of hose) and open bleeder until only fluid comes out (DO NOT HAVE ANYONE TOUCH THE CLUTCH PEDAL -- only gravity bleed).
16. reinstall slave and tighten to correct torque
17. have a friend/wife/girl-friend/etc sit in car and proceed to perform a standard bleeding of the clutch system (slowly down/hold/open/close/up/check fluid level/repeat). Expect to do this 10+ times.
18. near the end of this, you should be able to see/feel the clutch fork moving.
19. remove clutch master cover and vapor barrier, top up to about 1/16 below the full-mark (which should be just below the vapor barrier when inserted at step 21)
20. pump clutch pedal 50 (yes Fifty) times, varing speed and pause time between each.
21. reinstall clutch master vapor barrier and cap
22. perform 1-2 more standard bleeding (slowly down/hold/open/close/up/check fluid level/repeat).
You are now done -- and should have a great clutch system.
btw, the reason to NOT pressure bleed the slave before install is that it pushes the nose too far out, making it difficult to install, as well as pushing the piston into non-machined areas of the cylinder walls, often damaging the piston seals at the same time. Further, there is a plastic ring/retainer that is designed to limit the max travel of the piston-rod, which if pushed too far, can break that plastic retainer or worse -- push the piston and the rubber nose completely off (ask me how I know this)...
Also, the reason to use GM's clutch fluid is that it is DOT-3 (so thinner and less likely to trap air) and it has additives to further reduce air-entrapment and to lube the master to keep it from squeaking (a common problem with using 'brake fluid').
Good Luck...
18.
0. Can be done by just jacking up the left (driver) side of the car (but be careful and use jack stands.
1. Buy 1qt container of clutch fluid from the dealer (it is better than any other 'brake fluid' for the clutch).
2. Suck out most of the fluid in the clutch master reservoir and replace with new, then reinstall the vapor barrier and cap so that it can reduce the leakage at the slave.
3. loosen the hose from the slave 'before' unbolting from the bell-housing.
4. unbolt slave, but be careful, do not suspend from the hose nor twist the hose nor kink the hose -- this is especially important as the stainless-steel braid can kink or worse puncture the rubber inner-hose.
6. remove the hose from the old slave.
7. let some of the fluid drip out of hose until it starts to look clear
8. reconnect the hose to the new slave, but don't tighten completely.
9. loosely install slave into bell-housing -- but first, look or feel into the openning and feel for where the fork is and its recess (within which the slave's nose rests). This will help you see/feel the insertion angle of the slave.
10. Once your sure it is properly installed, tighten slave bolts enough to hold slave in position while
11. tighten hose onto slave
12. open, top off clutch master with more new clutch fluid, close
13. loosen slave bleeder until some fluid comes out then lightly tighten
14. remove slave
15. hold bleeder end of slave upward as much as possible (be careful of hose) and open bleeder until only fluid comes out (DO NOT HAVE ANYONE TOUCH THE CLUTCH PEDAL -- only gravity bleed).
16. reinstall slave and tighten to correct torque
17. have a friend/wife/girl-friend/etc sit in car and proceed to perform a standard bleeding of the clutch system (slowly down/hold/open/close/up/check fluid level/repeat). Expect to do this 10+ times.
18. near the end of this, you should be able to see/feel the clutch fork moving.
19. remove clutch master cover and vapor barrier, top up to about 1/16 below the full-mark (which should be just below the vapor barrier when inserted at step 21)
20. pump clutch pedal 50 (yes Fifty) times, varing speed and pause time between each.
21. reinstall clutch master vapor barrier and cap
22. perform 1-2 more standard bleeding (slowly down/hold/open/close/up/check fluid level/repeat).
You are now done -- and should have a great clutch system.
btw, the reason to NOT pressure bleed the slave before install is that it pushes the nose too far out, making it difficult to install, as well as pushing the piston into non-machined areas of the cylinder walls, often damaging the piston seals at the same time. Further, there is a plastic ring/retainer that is designed to limit the max travel of the piston-rod, which if pushed too far, can break that plastic retainer or worse -- push the piston and the rubber nose completely off (ask me how I know this)...
Also, the reason to use GM's clutch fluid is that it is DOT-3 (so thinner and less likely to trap air) and it has additives to further reduce air-entrapment and to lube the master to keep it from squeaking (a common problem with using 'brake fluid').
Good Luck...
18.
Last edited by theadmiral94; 07-08-2009 at 11:57 PM.
03-23-2018, 01:04 PM
#5
Advanced
I know it's an old post but great write-up, Admiral!!
Thinking I need to do this as I've noticed a steady drip of clutch fluid on the garage each time I park my 94 after a long drive. I've been adding more fluid since I've noticed and it does take a while for the reservoir to empty - but I would like to address this sooner rather than later.
However, how do I know if I need to replace the Master or the Slave? Should I just do both at the same time? If so, do you have a write-up of how to do both? Thinking of buying Wagner replacement Slave and Master take trying to tackle this project as the weather warms up.
I'm in Essex County, NJ so feel free to take a ride up the parkway and pass on that C4 widsdom! (jk - but that would be awesome....)
Thanks!
Thinking I need to do this as I've noticed a steady drip of clutch fluid on the garage each time I park my 94 after a long drive. I've been adding more fluid since I've noticed and it does take a while for the reservoir to empty - but I would like to address this sooner rather than later.
However, how do I know if I need to replace the Master or the Slave? Should I just do both at the same time? If so, do you have a write-up of how to do both? Thinking of buying Wagner replacement Slave and Master take trying to tackle this project as the weather warms up.
I'm in Essex County, NJ so feel free to take a ride up the parkway and pass on that C4 widsdom! (jk - but that would be awesome....)
Thanks!
03-08-2024, 09:34 AM
#6
Heel & Toe
Old post reactivate!
Great write up on the process.
Question, how the hell do you torque the nuts down on the slave mount? I can’t get anything in there and the right side stud is like 4 inches long. How critical is it to reach the torque numbers? Is it a minimum or maximum? We just cranked it down before checking the torque specs because of the inability to get a socket on the right nut. The left side is a much shorter stud but we can get a socket on a wobbly on it, but don’t know how accurate the torque reading actually is with the extension and the wobbly. TIA
Great write up on the process.
Question, how the hell do you torque the nuts down on the slave mount? I can’t get anything in there and the right side stud is like 4 inches long. How critical is it to reach the torque numbers? Is it a minimum or maximum? We just cranked it down before checking the torque specs because of the inability to get a socket on the right nut. The left side is a much shorter stud but we can get a socket on a wobbly on it, but don’t know how accurate the torque reading actually is with the extension and the wobbly. TIA
