C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LT1 cam change prices

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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Default LT1 cam change prices

What can I expect to pay a shop to change cams in my '95 LT1? Hours involved etc.

I'm just wondering if shops in Texas are less expensive then local shops in Kansas. I would consider taking my car to TX if costs are much different.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Well call a local shop and ask, then call a Tx shop. It is time consuming and a PIA. Hard to get a cam in and out of a LT1 w/engine in.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Not sure of the cost but with all the horror stories we've been hearing lately I'd definately consider doing it myself. Not to mention the knowledge you learn from the experience. It's not that bad if you have the guidance of the forum. The hardest part was probably the hub removal. Even that is easy with the correct knowledge, tools, and patience. I think before I decided to do my own I was quoted somewhere around $1,500 for labor.


Last edited by rickneworleansla; Aug 24, 2009 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Not sure of the cost but with all the horror stories we've been hearing lately I'd definately consider doing it myself. Not to mention the knowledge you learn from the experience. It's not that bad if you have the guidance of the forum. The hardest part was probably the hub removal. Even that is easy with the correct knowledge, tools, and patience. I think before I decided to do my own I was quoted somewhere around $1,500 for labor.

I knew someone on here had asked the question but I didn't know what answers they recieved. I don't have a garage and trying to do this in someone elses garage is asking a bit much.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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If you have a garage do it, have it done locally. I have lived in both states and doubt if prices differ between garages with like facilities. You might get dealer quotes, they are hungry for shop business in some places.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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Id guess a very low of $750 up to $1500 (high end) labor.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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I was quoted $1000-1200 in Oklahoma City. The guy is a locally reputable tuner but split with his partner and doesn't have a shop right now. He quoted to do the work at my shop using his tools. Mine is not that bad a deal since he is the one who will be doing the tune when all is done.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan59
What can I expect to pay a shop to change cams in my '95 LT1? Hours involved etc.

I'm just wondering if shops in Texas are less expensive then local shops in Kansas. I would consider taking my car to TX if costs are much different.
I understand your concern for price, but the person or place you utilize for your cam swap and their qualifications should be more important. Unfortunately, it seems, there is someone on every street corner willing to get into a job they really just can't handle, and rarely will the work be done with attention to detail. I think this is why someone else said to do it yourself. VERY FEW "professionals" will give the attention first, to the proper design of your camshaft, fill you in on what will work in your car, and also of the other items and procedures that will need to be done or purchased to effect a complete, not half *** job.

Competence, experience, and ethics should be the first priority. I doubt pricing will vary by enough to warrant 200-300 dollars in gas, and not being able to check on your car by a local (as local as possible) shop. The further you go away from home, the further away your recourse will be, in the event (In my opinion, a very high percentage.) of a jackleg working on your car.

In summation, I'd look for strong recommendations from smart people that have knowledge or firsthand business with the potential shop or person, not the bottom dollar, which will almost certainly guarantee you will be seeking the services of that "other guy" that you thought was a little too expensive in the first place. I know, because more than half of my work comes from this situation, and has for nearly twenty years.

I'd be happy to answer any of your questions regarding your cam swap, and in my opinion, if you can keep it at home, with a truly qualified shops, that's what I'd do. I do design my own camshafts for each and every client's vehicle, and it's not unusual , from a logistics standpoint, for me to sell out of state, and have a qualified shop install the cam.

That being said, you absolutely, have to consider PROPER tuning to be a part of your cam swap cost, and it amazes me how many people do not. This adds another wrinkle, and here are a couple of optimum scenarios to consider:

-You go to wherever the most qualified cam designer and tuner is, drop it off, and do the one stop shop deal.

-You consult and purchase the cam and components you need from the cam designer(There really is a sizeable difference in increases and driveability between cookie cutter cams, and a properly designed custom cam.), and have a competent shop install it (can they degreee the cam, and do they actually own the tools to do so?), then tune it for you-hopefully they also own the tuning software, and know how to properly tune your car.

-You purchase the cam and all components, have your local guy install and degree the cam, and then trailer or drive it to where the most competent tuner is to properly tune your combination. Hopefully, the same guy is the designer and tuner-this will, again, give you the best results.

If, any of the people or shops you are attempting to qualify for your work, himhaw about anything in regards to the work being performed, (mechanical or tuning), RUN to the guy you can tell know's what he is doing .

HTH

Jim
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by hex
Competence, experience, and ethics should be the first priority.

Jim


All it takes is for some dirt to get in there with the cam or for it to get nicked up while installing and you could be spending big $$$ to fix things or do it all over again. I recently read a thread where a shop left a rag sealed up in the intake. There are few shops who take the time to do things right. Most are concerned with getting paid and getting on to the next customer. I have one Corvette speciality shop in my area that I trust but I still prefer to do my own work whenever possible.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...lp-needed.html
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Very good advice here. Back when I was 15 years old I started at a local garage working on engines & transmissions. I rebuilt my first turbo 350 at age 15 and it was a complete dissassemble & rebuild. I made a few special tools myself to compess the clutch pack spring through the tail of the trans. Anyway, I remember a customer came in and spoke with me about putting a cam in his 383 Mopar. He had the cam and all parts, a "purple" something. After installing his cam and degreeing it, I ran the engine for break-in and did an oil change then did a test drive. The customer was happy with my work. I did a lot more cam changes after that for his freinds and people that asked whom did the work and what it cost him. Our shop was probebly the lowest priced shop in town, but when my brother and I worked there, we really tried to do good work. Many years later and lots of small jobs for people, I'm now dependant on someone else to do this work for me. Just recently I replaced the intake gasket on my '97 Suburban and I thought it was going to kill me. I hate to admit that I'm too far out of shape to do this kind of work. I love it, but there are times when you have to face facts.....I'm just wanting an LT4 Hotcam installed. I have everything needed or that I want installed, springs, retainers, pushrods, timing chain, gaskets, rockers, elect water pump etc. My car only has 15K miles on it and is like new. It has everything but a cam. 6-speed, LT TPIS headers, 3" BB exhaust, 4:10 gear and 315's on the rear.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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easy job but need space and clean space at that. there's tiny holes in the oil gallery plugs in the front for lubing the timing chain and water pump drive gear during operation. Get even a small piece of junk in there when the lifters are out and it could mean a clog of one or both of those.
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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Whoops, never mind

Last edited by C4fan; Sep 7, 2009 at 09:39 AM.
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