0ski_dwn_it

Hi all,
I would like to first say I think there is a ton of knowledge here and it makes for great reading. With that being said I have really started to log my cars new setup and have determined the following. I will state the problems and then state how I am going to attack it through programming. Hopefully when I am done this will serve to help not only me, but others. I have sent the logs to Yahoo breifcase were you all should be able to view them. I tried to lable them so they would be easy to identify the changes I have made thus far. I am fairly new to this "indepth"programming and would appreciate any help you might be able to provide. With many thanks.
Ok let get started.

1. I noticed after the injectors were installed and my vacuum leak was fixed that I was running universally rich. From my readings I determined I should first get the FP set at around 39-40 psi. And change the injector constant to ~26lbs/hr for the #24 SVOs. When I did this I saw some improvement. I ran out of time to burn another with a higher constant. I also noticed that my TPIS AFPR will not allow me to get much below 39 psi. It seems to be out of adjustment? From what I understand from reading here I should try to make universal adjustments with the injector constants till I get faily close to 128 BLM. Then focus on specific areas of concern. Yeah or Naay?

2. The next item I noticed is that with the stock ARAP bin I am running WAY too much timing. With the base timing set at 7* I am reaching up to 47* of timing, hence I am seeing quite a bit of knock. I am not really sure how to systematically change the RPM vs Load vs Main Spark Adv. From what I have read, I have gathered that without an EGR, ect I probably do not want to be running much more than 35* of timing. What I am not sure on is are they talking about Total timing or this main spark advance table? Once I have a pretty good handle on the BLMs I want to start tuning for spark. Any comments on this would greatly be appreciated.

One last bit of information which you may need to know is that my car is an A4 and has 3:07 rear gears. If you need any more information I would be happy to provide more. The complete logs can be had at the following site:

http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/ski_dwn_it

I should also add that it takes a bit of time to bring up the information. Some of it is pretty large, but its worth the way! Thanks all.

Warlock

I'm confused. I looked at
GM021902 (40 psi) 26lbs_hr
and
Log2_40psi

The ONLY difference is the injector constant from 22.4 to 26?

That should have leaned it out, but you are running richer which confuses me.
Did anything else change?
Make sure you only change the injector constant (keep going larger), reset the computer each time you change the chip, and give the computer time to adjust and stabalize.

Warlock

Also note that at 5000 rpms, you are close to maxing out the MAF measurement. If you reduce restrictions in your intake or rev much higher, you are into the fudge factor, cause the computer cant measure it. Thats why I just switched to MAP.


[Modified by Warlock, 12:20 PM 2/20/2002]

0ski_dwn_it

Warlock.
Thanks for the comments. You are right I only adjusted the constant to start with. I too thought this should have brought the mixture leaner. One thing I did not do is disconnect the - battery terminal to reset the computer. Do you have to every time? And for how long? Do you think I should go higher with the constant? My AFPR will only go to ~39-40 psi no lower.
What do you think about the timing. Take all the high spots down to ~35 and see what happens? Thanks for taking the time out to help.
-jesse

Warlock

Ideally you should be close with Fuel pressure set at 43.5 (you are disconnecting the vacuum line from the regulator and pluging the vacuum leak when you set your pressure, right? If not, you pressure is probably about 8lbs higher than you think and that is your problem). and your injector constant set at 25.4 (25.35 rounded). I would not go any lower than that on pressure. If you are still rich as an average, keep going with a higher injector constant. Maybe you got 30# somehow instead of 24?

As for spark...I havent had to touch mine yet. I had major knock problems and retarding the timing didnt do anything. It ended up being some noisy rockers that once adjusted cured my "false knock". If you dont have False knock, someone else would be a better guide, as I havent played with much other than constants, MAF tables and VE tables. Good luck and keep asking. :D

0ski_dwn_it

Warlock,
I did in fact disconnect the vacuum line, but did not plug either *open* hole. Neither the vacuum line or the SR hole. Does it matter if I plug the SR hole while adjusting? When I connect the vacuum line back up after adjusting the pressure goes down on the guage quite a bit ~7 psi. Is that normal? Yeah I think that is what you are saying above with it actually being about 8 psi higher right. I have myself kinda confused now. But the above is how I did it, just did not plug the holes.
Good point about getting the #30s. That would kinda suck, how would you know? I guess I will have to keep playing with it. Should I just be looking at the *course* BLM and get them as close as possible. That is what I understand from reading on the Thirdgen. I have gathered if I am withing ~3 blm of 128 I should be pretty good. I will obviously try to get as close as possible. Before i did the mods the car always ran at 128 +-2, usually just bounced a bit idle.
Well thanks for all your help so far, as far as asking a lot of questions I try to read as much as possible, but when things like we are talking about happen, it kinda warrents a question to a fellow member. I really appreciate your help.
Also while I have you held captive here I thought I might ask: Could you *hear* your RR that were loose at idle or was it something that was happening at a higher RPM? Mine are very quite almost sounds like a high pitched zipping noise. Just curious, and sorry for all the *stupid* questions.
-jesse

Warlock

I am a fan of the saying.."The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask." Just realize that I have never done any of this before. Other than changing brake pads and oil, I really dont know what the ***** I am doing. I am fairly mechanically inclined, so I was able to do an engine swap, and it does run. And I played with tuning the 165 enough to get it going pretty good, but I still had a way to go and ran out of gm/s. Now there are plenty of guys running MAF cars that exceed the 255 gm/s limit, and some of them run very well. I dont like to fudge things like that, so I swapped ECMs. The reason I point out that you need to make sure you unplug the vacuum line is that for the longest time I didnt, so I couldnt figure out why the hell it was running so rich!

Anyway, I have read a lot, and I feel like I generally know what I am doing...but I'm also the genius that thought the top would be fine for a slow spin to the store 3 blocks away WITHOUT SCREWING THE BOLTS IN. Not such a smart idea... :cuss When you have to pul over and go back for your top...:nono:

As for your most recent questions: I plug the SR side when I adjust so I am not intruducing a vacuum leak. Do you need to? Probably not. Yes, when you plug the vacuum line back in, the presure should drop several pounds, 7 sounds about right.

If you have the numbers (I think they were stamped in black on mine) and tell me the color of you injectors, I can tell you if the are 24 SVOs or not.

My rule of thumb is to try and get the BLMs within 5 of 128. Then I will start playing with timing, because the timing will throw the BLMs off again, then do fuel again, then back to timing, until I get them w/in 1 of 128. The I start playing w/ WOT. Thats the game plan.

Could I hear the Rockers?, Yes and no. Not with the naked ear, but I bought an automotive stethoscope...looks like a doctor's except has a metal rod on the end that you can touch to parts of the eengine and hear what was going on. When I put it on the driver side valve cover vs the passenger, the driver was definitely louder, but the really weird thing was that the passenger side was louder in the front than the back. So, I adjusted them again and now they are pretty quiet and definitely even. Solved the problem of the knock count going crazy everytime I hit the throttle.

Other problem I am having is my BLMs going all over the place. Was driving me crazy, but then I noticed that I have my presure set at 49. Connect the vacuum and it drops to about 41. Hit the throttle and the presure should go up because you are decreasing the vacuum...mine drops. Recently changed the fuel filter, so it must be a bad pump, or the sock/strainer is clogged in the tank. Thats this weekend's project...then I get to start from scratch with tuning my BLMs... :yesnod:

0ski_dwn_it

Warlock,
Hey thanks for the info. Sounds like you and I are in about the same caliber of mechanic. Very mechanically inclined, just not too familiar with the details of this stuff. We will get through it. I am like a a freakin elephant, once I read something I pretty much have it for good. Also, I did the same exact thing with my roof! Except I forget that it wasn't bolted down. Went across the RR tracks by my house and I thought God came down and ripped the roof off the car! Man was I ever mad! Now its fixed and you would never know the difference.
Well to answer your question about the injectors they are black body with blue plactic upper. Looked at them but did not notice any stamping, then again I wasn't really looking for one either. I bought them through Summit Racing. I will try to find the packing slip and get the part numbers off it.
Thanks a million for answering my post. It nice to have the advice from someone else when going into unchartered waters.
As for your pressure dropping when the car is at rest and you rev the engine. Mine does the same thing and I too thought it was probably the fuel pump, but try this. I took my car out on the road with the pressure regulator taped to the windshield and when I am on the highway and the car is under a *load* when the throttle is applied the pressure then raises as expected. It NEVER drops below the idle pressure. Must have something to do with the load on the car. Give it a try. You might not have to do all that work this weekend, you can spend it tuning! Good luck. i will be watching to see if that worked for you.
-jesse