JLeatherman

Ok, so my '84 has terrible paint. Way back in about '89 the clear coat came off the doors. The PO had the doors only re-cleared, so the clear that's on the doors right now is still in ok shape. A little peeling, but atleast they still look smooth. The rest of the car is totally devoid of clear-coat except for the headlight buckets (I guess because they stay out of the sun?). Anyway, I'm gonna repaint the car factory metallic gold. How do I go about removing the rest of the clear from the headlights and doors? Also, the rest of the factory paint is pretty rough on the surface from losing all the clear. I assume I can just sand that down before paint?

Last question, there are 2 good sized chips on the hood and a crack in the paint only where the air cleaner stud hit once (right in the groove in the middle of the hood). All three are through all the paint layers. How best to fill these? I'd think something as inflexible as Bondo would immediately peel up when flexed. Is there a fiberglass-suitable skim coat I can use?

c4cruiser

You will get lots of answers if you post in the Paint/Body section, but just from your description, it sounds like you need to sand the entire car down to where the original color coat is just about removed.

You will wind up doing lots of sanding here; are you going to be using air-powered boards and DA sanders? Expect lots of dust; in the air, on the floor, and on you. And hours of work. Prep is everything in paint especially if you want a high-quality jopb.

That will take care of most rock chips and deeper ones can be handled with a good body filler. The sanding will also provide a surface where a primer/sealer can adhere properly and then a primer and base coat/clear coat can be applied.

As far as the chip from the stud, can the stud be cut down so it doesn't hit the underside? Is the hood adjusted for the proper height? Body filler can be used for the deep chips and as long as the surface is prepared according to the filler directions, there should not be a problem.

The car is not "fiberglass" in the sense of the older Corvettes; the material is SMC or "sheet-molded compound". When you go to buy paint and primers, let them know you are painting an 84 Corvette. Most auto paint supply stores will gladly help with the selection of proper materials.

JLeatherman

Didn't even know there was a "Paint and Body" section. If a mod would like to move this it's fine by me.

Anyway, the aircleaner stud problem is fixed. When I changed to a carb I measured the new stud, checked it with putty and everything, and I had clearance. Problem was, I took it out once and didn't put it back at the same level (the jam nut hit and I thought it was bottomed out) and when i shut the hood that time was when it cracked the paint. Fortunately the hood didn't crack, just the paint. It was a one-time mistake that I definitely won't repeat after a new paint job.

So I can just sand it until the clear is gone? It's not like there's much left anyway. I'll be using a DA sander. I've got an air-powered one. The areas with chips have already had the clear fall off, and the chips are atleast .050" deep. I'll need to get a filler of some kind for those. Any suggestions?

Also, I was always instructed never to prime over an old base coat, just sand it and then base-coat it again.

And I know about SMC. Call it a slip-of-the-keyboard. My bad.

c4cruiser

If the base coat is OEM, there have been enough advancements in paint technology that today's primer-sealers work great for covering old paints. Once you have the DA work done, then you can wet-sand the old base coat down to where it's just disappearing.

Check with your paint supplier to get info from them. They can recommend fillers that are compatible with the types of paints they would sell. Many new primers are water-based and some paint is even water-based. Just make sure that all of the materials are compatible with each other.

turbotim23

This is something you have to really have know what you are doing. I wouldn't take on a corvette first time learning to paint. There are so many things that can trip you up and most require someone to show you how to sand and use tools right.If you are serious take a nite autobody class and practice on a car that doesn't matter or find someone who knows and will let you work with them. Good Luck Tim

ZRWHAT

,

If you have to ask where to start or how to proceed to remove the clear, you might already be in over your head!

Not being a smart azz but this is why so many project cars come up for sale, biting off more then one can chew. You really have to be organized and know what products to use and at what stage you switch gears. Cutting loose with a air file or DA could be like giving a monkey a machine gun, unless you've learned how to control them, they sometimes have a mind of their own and can do some serious damage quickly.

If you are serious about tackeling the paint job yourself, get some training in a local Vo-tech school or College that offers this skill that has a body shop class. They are always looking for cars to train people on, you may be able to work on your own car with professional instructors watching over you.

Unless you've done a few, it is not as easy as it looks, it requires a certain "feel" one must acquire on all tasks and prep is the most important stage of any quality paint job, spraying is another acquired skill that could have disasterous results if you don't know the correct technique and have the knowledge base, weather and conditions play into the mix as well.

About the 2 spots on your hood, if the paint is cracked the glass under it is also cracked or fractured and will require special attention since the hood is exposed to extreme heat from the outside (sun) and from the inside (motor underhood temps).

Seriously, I admire your courage to take on such a job and I'm sure you may be more then capable of doing it but you question about removing the clear drew me to the above conclusions.

Wish you the best of luck in whatever you decide to do, takes some large stones to take on such a project especially on a Vette.

Gibby

jhammons01

I disagree totally.....Jleatherman, you continue to learn what you need to in order to accomplish this task.

This Forum isn't really much good when the members tell everyone NOT to try to fix things on their own.

Might as well answer every thread with, "take it back to the Dealer"

JLeatherman, The metallic in the bronze color you have has oxidized and that is why the clear came off, you'll need to sand down to the Black or Dark Gray primer that is under neath the Bronze. That Black Primer will still have good adhesion to the SMC......and that is what you want, your new paint layers can stick to that Primer.

Have fun and go slow, Most will not agree but you can do Panel at a time (the paint may not lay out the same each time) but you may be getting more experience each time you paint......if you are doing it yourself, you can always rework what you don't like.

JLeatherman

I haven't decided 100% yet if I'm going to spray it myself, although I'd like to. I'm doing the prep work since that's the most expensive and longest part. I don't know where everyone got the idea that I've never painted before. I've done steel cars, just not SMC before, and I've never done anything with this wonderful 80's GM clearcoat peeling off. Wanted to make sure there wasn't some sort of glaring reason not to just sand it down til it's smooth, or if there was a better way. Heck, if it was steel I'd just blast it down bare and start over, but obviously that's not gonna fly on this one.

For everyone's info, my other winter project this year is a '46 Chevy pickup. I've gotten sick of sending everything out and either getting screwed or waiting forever. So I'm doing the patches myself and painting that one too (but not til later next year, it needs a lot of body work first).

BTW, the hood itself is not cracked under the chips. They're rock chips, on the front lower section of the hood. They're both about the size of a quarter, and I can see the material underneath and it's not cracked.

Would love to hear any more tips guys. Hell, it's only paint. Paint can always be re-done. I didn't mind cutting the shifter tunnel out for the T5 swap

JLeatherman

Oh, and it can't hardly look any worse than it does now:







That one's the worst of the two chips.

jhammons01

Dude, you and I are in the exact same spot......there is no way my silver could look worse than it does now......It looks just like yours....nice and oxidized.

Spray it yourself.....

joe wilson

Your car looks just like my gold 85. I would definitely try painting my own car. The place on the hood could be trouble if you don't take your time and get it perfect. I would first try epoxy on that ugly spot, let it dry completely, sand it down, then repeat if necessary. Prime it good then block sand it, you'll probably have to re-prime and sand a few times until you can't see where the bad place is. As for the headlights, why sand all the good clearcoat off? I would just wet sand them until completely roughened (smooth) and prime over them. I've found the cheapest good paint in my area is PPG. If you're on a budget like I am you might try them.

joe wilson

Another thing I might mention...I treat SMC just like anything else as far as sanding and filling holes except for the welding and sandblasting, of course. It's actually easier (for me) than working with steel. I haven't had any durability problems at all with my 85 as far as paint goes.

85vette-84vette

Just hit MAACO $899!

samsonb

Better yet, find someone to paint it on the side. That is what I'm doing. Already have a few guys lined up. Just gotta check their work and plan to get it done when it warms up so I can take it all apart for whoever paints it. One guy has already painted 2 Corvettes, a C3 and C4. Muahaha. Probably can get it done cheaper than Maaco's high end job.

JLeatherman

I know MAACO was put out as a joke, but I know there are guys on here who've had decent results with their local branches. It depends on the painter. Regardless, if I do a decent job prepping the car even MAACO oughta be able to make a decent job of it. But, then again, if even MAACO can, why not myself?

c4cruiser

The local MAACO shop does very good work, and they have turned out some really nice paint jobs. But on that side of their business, you pay for the labor for prep and paint so it's up to the customer to decide how good of a job he wants over and above the standard MAACO finishes.

JLeatherman

I know MAACO was put out as a joke, but I know there are guys on here who've had decent results with their local branches. It depends on the painter. Regardless, if I do a decent job prepping the car even MAACO oughta be able to make a decent job of it. But, then again, if even MAACO can, why not myself?

jhammons01

^^Well, that was my last experience with paint. I took my RX7 to a place called "Carsmetics" on a recommendation (not sure if I'd pass that recommendation on). Anyway, When the car came out....it looked like crap. Lotsa dust, fish eyes, orange peal.

I complained and the Mgr took it back in and had it buffed out. Then the thing was full of swirls.....again very very bad.

Just by chance, a guy was there "rubbing out" a really nice paint job. He told me that He could fix it with no problems.

The Detail-er was a guy named Musser. Musser quoted us $200 to fix it up. Me and the Manager split the $200.

That guy wet sanded and buffed that paint.....and afterward it was beautiful.

Musser explained that almost all paint needs to be rubbed out afterward and that is the detail that a lot of folks overlook.

So if that is the case, And I have Mussers card right here, Why not spray the car myself and then take it to Musser for a final buff?

josephf31

you don't have professional level spray guns, a booth, experience, etc.

btr85vette

Believe it or not your paint actually looks better than mine. The PO had good intentions of repainting the car in the fact that he started sanding the car, but didn't finish. Now I have whole sections of black showing through the original blue paint. Looks like ***, almost too embarrassing to show people as I pass them.

Anyhow, have you checked out the Summit Racing paints? Very inexpensive, and I heard they're made by House of Kolor. Can't confirm it though. You could buy the 2-stage paint for under $300. Just the ticket. I've always painted my cars, so this is the way i'm going.