lcvette

Just wondering if anyone has tried the new Spec Supertwin out? I am getting ready to put the car back together for another round and need something to hold 1000+ rwtq. I like the idea of the push style clutch engagement rather then the pull style.

Hoping to hear some install stories and how everything feels!

Thanks in advance!

Chris

Mr6spd

I have one and have done a trial install and hydraulics try-out ... but my car won't be ready to run for a while.

It appears to be a very high quality piece. Will work with the stock 0.70 inch bore master cylinder. But I have installed a Tilton 0.75 inch MC to reduce the pedal stroke. Does anyone else hate the fact that the stock clutch has so much travel that you have to hit your knee on the steering wheel?!! Install some shims/washers on the pass compartment side of the MC lower stud to act as an adjustable pedal stop.

As delivered. there was not enough clearance space for the supplied Throwout bearing (to allow for clutch disk wear) ... so I installed a .1875 thick bellhousing spacer to get it perfect.

I highly recommend installing one of these Tilton flow control valves in the hydraulic line: http://www.tiltonracing.com/content....st2&id=436&m=b

This can be used to prevent drive line component breakage from overly quick clutch releases. When depressing the clutch, the flow is un-restricted ... when releasing the clutch, the fluid is forced to go through an orfice (3 different orifice sizes are included)

lcvette

Mr6spd,

Very interesting in regards to the orifice hydraulic fitting.

when you say bellhousing spacer, and clearance space, you mean the supplied push style throwout bearing was holding the clutch open when installed and you were required to space the bellhousing to stop this?

thats odd, I was hoping for a plug and play setup but no biggie. I still have the mcleod master cylinder in the car, can't remember the bore on it but it is a bit bigger then stock. I do like the shorter throw of the pedal. How does the pedal feel with that clutch in?

Chris

Mr6spd

Yes, you are correct about the clearance and bell housing spacer. It was very close to holding it open ... just a little clutch wear (which will make the fingers come out more) and the clutch would slip.

It is a minor inconvenience, but I have no regrets it seems to be a great setup.

Mcleod Master cylinders are typically 0.75 dia, so you should be good there.

Pedal feels good. It's a pretty firm push, not like the granny force of the stocker.

ZD1

Is there an adapter for either mcleod/tilton master cylinder?

Or do people just **** it side ways?

Marv02

Hey I told you let me know what you need I make you one.
Hey I go down tomarrow and get a trany jack we both need one.

I will be putting my trany back in tuesday or wensday this comming week I be off this comming week.

Oh ya I can make for you next week the week after just let me know I make a program and cut one out for you at work.

Now I feel bad with my 370 ish HP motor I did not know you were pushing that much HP.

ZD1

Marv, just. Trying to see what the big boys are doing so I don't have to do it vthrice

Marv02

I under stand.

Mr6spd

I installed it straight up. Made an aluminum adapter with a dual bolt pattern.

James93LT1

Pic of the aluminum adapter on the Mcleod master.
Mcleod uses a CNC master cylinder with a 13/16 bore on their setup.

lcvette

Mr6spd,

I'm in the process of installing the clutch, tranny, bellhousing finally, and somehow I don't have an installation instruction manual?!?!?!? I may have removed it to read through when I purchased the clutch so it may be my fault but now all that I have is a yellow sheet describing the conditions of a problematic clutch actuation and engagement and the warranty sheet in the box.

It seems fairly straight forward, there are two shims that appear to go between the throw out bearing and transmission and a guide pin that replaces one of the front cover bolts on the transmission to keep it from turning, the lines are straight forward enough but I am left with a bolt that I am not sure where it goes, it is about 1/2" long and has a tapered allen head on it and is the same thread size and pitch as the transmission front cover bolts. Any ideas what this goes too?

I took this morning to locate the bellhousing to the crank centerline since I had the new Callies main bearing caps registered to the block and line bored and honed and it is now 0.000" perfectly centered using the lakewood offset alignement dowels. with the stockers it was about .007" out after machining was done.

my next question is regarding your custom bellhousing spacer, I read the gap between the tranny input shaft and the crank/pilot bearing surface should be between .100-.200" do you know what the gap is with your customer bellhousing spacer? I definately want to make sure i have a little extra gap there because im not convinced part of my crank walk/thrust failure wasn't contributed to trannsmission thrust movement under 1000+ ft/lbs of torque going through the tranny and pressing against the back of the crank. so this go around anything that may have been a contributing factor I would prefer to error on the side of caution.

I would like to hear your measurements and thoughts on this if you have a spare moment.

Thanks in advance!


Chris

COPO

You still doing the ls swap?

MarkBychowski

Resurecting from the dead....

I've been looking around for info on these and was curious if any of you guys were running this clutch still and how you like it? Over in C5/C6 seems like most like them aside from some install issues.

dizwiz24

Be aware of breakage of c4 irs components.

At a minimum, lower your bumpstops one inch to prevent the halfshafts from binding during launch

Doesn't the c5 use cv joints and have a better supported pinion (thru torque tube)? Vs. Flimsy c beam and u joints.

That's been an issue with mcleod street twin.

You need a sprung hub center or dual mass flywheel to absorb driveline shock.

Now, there's prob some point where a sprung hub clutch becomes wimpy.

I'm not yet at that point....

MarkBychowski

I pretty rarely dragrace and fortunately I suck -- can't launch to save my life so risk to driveline is pretty minimal

My car is about 50% street 50% roadrace so it's not too hard on the clutch. Actually the street driving is harder on my clutch than racing It's also the bigger reason I'm looking at the supertwin.