coco1950

Did you do some work on the engine prior to the starting issue. On my 89 I had the same issue. I was working on my intake and some how the distributer wire from the tach got caught under the intake pipe and it shorted out. You could not see the wire from the top, I found it by luck. I repaired it and it started right up.

Good Luck !
.

PhantomUSA

No work has been done on car prior to it not starting the vette sat for a couple of weeks then it just would not start

engle1147

10% Ethanol in fuel + stock Multech injectors (non ethanol compliant) =

FICINJECTORS

just read his thread.. a few questions, how long was this engine not running? I think you have stuck closed injectors. In this scenario the injector coil will ohm check fine. But the valve seat wont move. I know you said there is no pulse in the noid light but I'm not convinced its not stuck injectors. Those multecs have a mind of their own. Also, they cannot be cleaned successfully. I read this quickly off my i phone so i might have missed something. But, if you haven't tried some starting fluid, I would. see if it fires on ether, if it does you can rule out, ignition.

PhantomUSA

To answer y'all the engine will run squirting gas into the intake......next week I think I will pull the injectors out and put then in a test stand If I can get the system to pulse.....everything works except for no pulse at the injectors

PhantomUSA

NO Ethanol I get my gas from a small Ma & Pa store and he will not sell 10% blend reason I get gas there is cause My custom bike will foul the plugs running ethanol

forvicjr

You said you replaced engine 4000 miles ago,right? I would chase all harneses related to engine managment for pinch points, and recheck all grounding points that would have been removed during engine RR.One of the harneses could have been pinched or rubbed leading to an open or short situation. That computer needs to have sucessful comunication with scanner before any thing else. Just my 2 cents,what do I know I own a c3

RocketSled

Is the pulse signal getting to the injectors? If so, the only thing I could think of that that point is something in the fuel plugged them.

ETA: but what would plug all of them, all at once...presumably the car would run, but run like crap.

PhantomUSA

Like the heading says NO pulse to the injectors I have 12 volts to all injectors but with a noid light no pulse

engle1147

12 volts will be present at the injectors (fed by the INJ 1 & INJ2 fuses) the injector driver (inside the ECM) grounds the other end circuit to close it....the pulse you see on a noid light occurs as the ECM's injector driver opens and closes to ground. I still - recommend you disconnect all the injectors at once and place your noid light across one of the injector pig tails and give the engine a crank and check for pulses/noid light flashes.

RocketSled

Then why would you pull the injectors and have them bench tested?

There's an oil pressure fuel cutoff circuit, too. If that sensor sees no pressure, it cuts power to the fuel pump. Do you have fuel pressure to the rail? (this thread is rapidly approaching tl;dr status)

TWISTERUP

Based on you saying the SES light is flashing a "12" Here's what I'd do--- All voltage tests at the ECM connectors
A--check the orange wire in the 32 pin connector for battery voltage ALL the time
B--check the orange wire in the24 pin connector for battery voltage ALL the time
C--check the pink/black wire in the 24 pin connector for 12 volts w/ignition on
D---KEY OFF--Using the ohm scale of your VOM---check the black/white wire for continuity to any KNOWN GOOD ground

Post back with what you find

PhantomUSA

I"LL try some more checks on monday at the ECM for voltage and ground That TWISTERUP suggested

engle1147 I have done the noid light test with all injector pigtails off still no pulse

Cant work on the vette tomorrow I'll be outta town

RocketSled

And you're sure your test equipment is functioning properly?

PhantomUSA

Both orange wires have 12 volts.....Ign wire has 12 volts.....all Blk/Wht wires have ground

TWISTERUP

I know you said you have VATS bypassed and you've tried a couple reman ECMs---I'm thinkin' out loud here---Is it possible the prom you also had burned which among other things" Eliminates VATS"--has gone **** up ??

PhantomUSA

The prom has been changed also once with a OEM and also tied a Hybertech prom.....so its leading me to think its either another bad rebuilt ECM or a wire problem.....a buddy is sending a me OEM take out ECM thats known to be good....if that doesnt work then its got to be something I've overlooked in the wiring

RocketSled

That's something a good set of 4' test leads with alligator clips are good for. (I had to string two or three together to test the wiring for a tranny temp sensor once.)

Since NONE of them are firing, You might want to concentrate on testing the ground side of the electrical equation.

rick lambert

If you're getting a code 12 then it's not the ECM.

spanishvette86

Hi!!

Your history is like mine´s...the same:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...e-january.html


I was 12 months with no pulses...a lot of tests, new pieces (ECM´s, PROM...all!!) like you.
And my problem was this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcfIHLVcm7A

A connector had a bad adjustment to ECM. In that video, i only touch it a little, and the car stops. That was all

May be is your problem too. Try to move that connectors while you are cranking...may be you will have good luck

Regards from Spain