C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Removing Oil Pan on 1993 Corvette

Old 02-16-2010, 11:29 PM
  #1  
miscstudent
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
miscstudent's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Newbury Park Ca
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Removing Oil Pan on 1993 Corvette

Hey all,

Once again, did a search but didn't find anything. I am trying to remove the oil pan to replace the timing cover gasket and since I had to drop the oil pan I figured I would put a new gasket on that as well. Do I really have to remove the Left Catalytic Converter and starter motor and flywheel cover plate (whatever that is) ?

Furthermore, are there other names for the flywheel cover plate? Even though its in the FSM like that in the oil pan section, the section referring to the flywheel never says anything like that in the flywheel/transmission section.

Thanks!
Old 02-16-2010, 11:51 PM
  #2  
JAKE
Le Mans Master
 
JAKE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Kempner Texas
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts

Default

On cars with an auto trans, the cover is nothing more than a plastic shield held on by four (IIRC four) small screws. It just covers the flex-plate and torque converter. No sure but i suspect there's something similar on a manual trans car. Some guys just leave it off once removed.

I never tried removing just the oil pan on a LT1, but I suspect the job would be easier if the starter and cat were out of the way. Dropping both is pretty easy.

Jake
Old 02-17-2010, 12:18 AM
  #3  
mike100
Safety Car
 
mike100's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 4,344
Received 47 Likes on 41 Posts

Default

on other small blocks, I've just loosened up the bolts enough to get the pan to drop down to facilitate R&R of the front timing cover. when it went back on, some RTV go layed in the corners of the original gasket and oil pan rail when the timing cover got popped back into place.

I can't say for sure on a C4, but a lot of times, the engine needs to come out to completly remove an oil pan on a chevy small block.
Old 02-17-2010, 12:18 AM
  #4  
mtwoolford
Melting Slicks
 
mtwoolford's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: folsom california
Posts: 3,482
Received 194 Likes on 180 Posts

Default

On my 96 I didn't have to remove either cat; the exhaust system stays in place.

Undue the engine mounting stud nut (one per side)

Place large piece of wood under oil pan; place floor jack under the wood and jack up engine one to two inches

place small pieces of wood approximately one inch thick between bottom of engine mount and frame

release and remove jack

Disconnect negative battery cable

drain oil

Remove the oil filter

Remove the oil filter mount

Drop, remove the starter

Remove stamped flat piece of sheet metal from bottom forward end of bell housing,

undo oil pan screws 7/16ths " heads (1/2 " nuts on forward most and aftermost studs)

remove oil pan rail reinforcing strips

remove oil pan.

installation is the reverse
Old 02-17-2010, 12:48 PM
  #5  
miscstudent
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
miscstudent's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Newbury Park Ca
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mike100
on other small blocks, I've just loosened up the bolts enough to get the pan to drop down to facilitate R&R of the front timing cover. when it went back on, some RTV go layed in the corners of the original gasket and oil pan rail when the timing cover got popped back into place.

I can't say for sure on a C4, but a lot of times, the engine needs to come out to completly remove an oil pan on a chevy small block.
I think I'm going to go with this method. According to the FSM, you can get it out, but it looks like it would be such a pain, and I'm not really up for it. You loosened up all the bolts right?
Old 02-17-2010, 03:03 PM
  #6  
JAKE
Le Mans Master
 
JAKE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Kempner Texas
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by mtwoolford
On my 96 I didn't have to remove either cat; the exhaust system stays in place.

Undue the engine mounting stud nut (one per side)

Place large piece of wood under oil pan; place floor jack under the wood and jack up engine one to two inches

place small pieces of wood approximately one inch thick between bottom of engine mount and frame

release and remove jack

Disconnect negative battery cable

drain oil

Remove the oil filter

Remove the oil filter mount

Drop, remove the starter

Remove stamped flat piece of sheet metal from bottom forward end of bell housing,

undo oil pan screws 7/16ths " heads (1/2 " nuts on forward most and aftermost studs)

remove oil pan rail reinforcing strips

remove oil pan.

installation is the reverse
Dip stick/tube?

Jake
Old 02-17-2010, 04:30 PM
  #7  
miscstudent
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
miscstudent's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Newbury Park Ca
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well the last person to do it used so much RTV on the oil pan that its still on with all of the screws out. God this is turning into such a nightmare. I got the timing cover off and now I can't get it back on.
Old 02-17-2010, 04:37 PM
  #8  
jaa1992
Le Mans Master
 
jaa1992's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps GA
Posts: 7,977
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12

Default

Originally Posted by JAKE
Dip stick/tube?

Jake
Maybe its optional since it goes throgh a hole in the block on the passenger side.
Probably should pull the dipstick though.
Old 02-17-2010, 06:49 PM
  #9  
mike100
Safety Car
 
mike100's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 4,344
Received 47 Likes on 41 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by miscstudent
Well the last person to do it used so much RTV on the oil pan that its still on with all of the screws out. God this is turning into such a nightmare. I got the timing cover off and now I can't get it back on.
oh yeah...you'll have to pry it off some with an angled prybar type of tool. A little coaxing is gonna be needed, the small block front cover has flustered plenty of people over the years. there is a certain intangible skill experienced mechanics have regarding the use of force...enough to get the job done without breaking things..fine line, usually. you might need a helper to pull the front lip down while you get the cover in place.
Old 02-17-2010, 07:27 PM
  #10  
miscstudent
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
miscstudent's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Newbury Park Ca
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mike100
oh yeah...you'll have to pry it off some with an angled prybar type of tool. A little coaxing is gonna be needed, the small block front cover has flustered plenty of people over the years. there is a certain intangible skill experienced mechanics have regarding the use of force...enough to get the job done without breaking things..fine line, usually. you might need a helper to pull the front lip down while you get the cover in place.
Haha well I ground the inner lip off of it and we'll see how that works. Added a ton of RTV for good measure. I'll keep you updated.
Old 02-18-2010, 08:52 PM
  #11  
miscstudent
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
miscstudent's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Newbury Park Ca
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by miscstudent
Haha well I ground the inner lip off of it and we'll see how that works. Added a ton of RTV for good measure. I'll keep you updated.
FWIW to anyone considering this, no leaks yet.
Old 02-19-2010, 03:40 PM
  #12  
2VettesMike
Instructor
 
2VettesMike's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Blk Mtn NC
Posts: 173
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

X2, worked the same for me.
Thanks, Mike

Originally Posted by mtwoolford
On my 96 I didn't have to remove either cat; the exhaust system stays in place.

Undue the engine mounting stud nut (one per side)

Place large piece of wood under oil pan; place floor jack under the wood and jack up engine one to two inches

place small pieces of wood approximately one inch thick between bottom of engine mount and frame

release and remove jack

Disconnect negative battery cable

drain oil

Remove the oil filter

Remove the oil filter mount

Drop, remove the starter

Remove stamped flat piece of sheet metal from bottom forward end of bell housing,

undo oil pan screws 7/16ths " heads (1/2 " nuts on forward most and aftermost studs)

remove oil pan rail reinforcing strips

remove oil pan.

installation is the reverse
Old 03-30-2015, 04:59 PM
  #13  
JD1964
Pro
 
JD1964's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2014
Posts: 687
Received 145 Likes on 108 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mtwoolford
On my 96 I didn't have to remove either cat; the exhaust system stays in place.

Undue the engine mounting stud nut (one per side)

Place large piece of wood under oil pan; place floor jack under the wood and jack up engine one to two inches

place small pieces of wood approximately one inch thick between bottom of engine mount and frame

release and remove jack

Disconnect negative battery cable

drain oil

Remove the oil filter

Remove the oil filter mount

Drop, remove the starter

Remove stamped flat piece of sheet metal from bottom forward end of bell housing,

undo oil pan screws 7/16ths " heads (1/2 " nuts on forward most and aftermost studs)

remove oil pan rail reinforcing strips

remove oil pan.

installation is the reverse

Time to revive this thread. The above method works for me just fine. Thanks for posting it. In the middle of a cam swap now. I'd like to add something to the list of steps. Here it is.

Before pulling pan down, remove low oil level warning sensor in the side of the pan. Mine was hanging up on the pump pickup and I accidentally broke it when dropping the pan.
Old 03-31-2015, 09:10 AM
  #14  
8a8mfh
Racer
 
8a8mfh's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2007
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

I removed the pan on my 93 saturday night. Didn't have to jack the engine up. Didn't drop the starter just unbolted it and moved it against the exhaust. Also removed the oil level sender first as per the fsm.

Get notified of new replies

To Removing Oil Pan on 1993 Corvette



Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Removing Oil Pan on 1993 Corvette



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:35 PM.