C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Coilover sway bar relocation idea

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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Default Coilover sway bar relocation idea

I've been reading some threads getting a good background for when my coilovers arrive. I notice some have cut holes in the frame to locate nuts in the frame. I thought a relocation plate might be a better idea, and simpler than welding nuts in the frame.

Here is my idea:


(sorry for the MS Paint drawing- still have to install my CAD software).

Two flat head bolts hold the plate to the frame, using the existing holes.

Two new holes are drilled into the frame to clear the nuts, which are welded to the plate.

The plate could be made thick enough to tap holes, and omit the welded nuts. I'm not sure what the better option is at this point.

After looking around a bit, it turns out BMR makes these for the Mustang, and I've also seen them for Jeeps. I think this might be a simple solution to one of the "scarier" aspects of the coilover conversion, at the front at least.

The first issue I can see is if the plate gets too thick, I may have some geometry issues with the end links. I'm eventually going to make my own links, but that will have to wait.

Thoughts?
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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I just did the DRM install recently and below is my thread for reference. Here are some pics of my sway bar relocation.

I really like your idea alot, i cant see any reason why it wouldn't work. It looks like it would be a great option so that you wouldn't have to cut the frame! Keep the thread up so we can see how it works out!

Cheers,
Derrick


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...tall-pics.html













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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the pics!

Your experience is actually what inspired me to think about how to avoid cutting the frame.

What spring rates did you go with?

I believe I am getting 425# front, 350# rear. I wanted improved stiffness over my FE1 setup, but not be miserable on the freeway, feeling every expansion joint. Merle at Exotic Muscle said these would be a decent compromise for daily drivability with occasional track aspirations.

Have you noticed an improvement going around corners with uneven pavement transitions? I've read several accounts coilovers eliminate this, and is my primary motivation for the conversion.

Last edited by ninetyfivevette; Mar 9, 2010 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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Looks like I'll have to relocate my sway bar to accomodate my front coilovers.



I was looking inside the frame and noticed there is a plate there already.

I should be able drill and tap a new hole and use OEM bolts. Look at the frame and you'll see the plate is welded to it. The
structure is already there just new holes and tap are needed.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 12:32 PM
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When I drilled my holes, I did not notice any extra plate. How many threads do you think you can tap? I scrapped my relocation plate idea and just drilled all the way through the frame, so I've got a pair of bolts running from the top of the frame rail, to the bottom.

Last edited by ninetyfivevette; Apr 21, 2010 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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Is there a reason that you couldn't use rivet-nuts instead? I am getting ready to install coilovers on my 94 and hate to cut holes in the frame if there are other alternatives.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cj's c4
Is there a reason that you couldn't use rivet-nuts instead? I am getting ready to install coilovers on my 94 and hate to cut holes in the frame if there are other alternatives.
The "riv-nut" is an excellent thought and it's what I bought for mine. The difficult aspect of the install is "crushing" the "riv-nut". I'm likely buying an installation tool ($300+) and pass it on to a friend who will likely get some good use from it. I liked the idea of "riv-nut" so that you can retain the stock appearance of the install using all of the original frame mounting brackets etc.

The other difficult aspect of the install on my part was/is I like to retain the metric hardware and the correct drill for the 10mm metric "riv-nut" is quite/very expensive. I wanted to accomplish the install this winter and just never got to it.

I was planning on using a later production style link package that uses ball/socket ends and modifying the bushing at the control arm. I believe I have a viable plan, I just need some time!!

Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 21, 2010 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ninetyfivevette
When I drilled my holes, I did not notice any extra plate. How many threads do you think you can tap? I scrapped my relocation plate idea and just drilled all the way through the frame, so I've got a pair of bolts running from the top of the frame rail, to the bottom.

There is something in there. If you look at the original holes (picture above), the frame thickness is visible then, the bolt's thread (plate). The
plate is welded inside to the frame and you can see the welding points.

The new holes are thicker than the frame. That thickness got to be the support plate for the sway bar bracket. I'm putting my
fronts on hold until I get clarification on this. I would not like to cut a hole/square on the frame but, I will if I have to for it to be done.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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DMukina,

Did you take a picture of the bolts inside the frame?
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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why not counterbore the plate to sink the nuts into the plate and weld them in
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