14101128 Heads, which rocker arms?
03-23-2010, 01:05 AM
#1
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14101128 Heads, which rocker arms?
I have a set of '86 14101128 cylinder heads (1986-1987 manufacture years). I am purchasing roller tip rocker arms for them. All of the rocker arm manufacturers are listing "pre-'87" and "1987-after" as application choices. Since these heads were made in '86 and '87, I am having some confusion.
My only clue is one listing that states that the "1987-after" category is "For 1987-97 engines with centerbolt valve covers".
Since my heads are centerbolt, and I believe the mid-'86 heads were the first centerbolt heads made, I think I want the "1987-after" application. I'm not sure though.
Does anyone have any knowledge on this subject? I'm planning on calling some manufacturers in the morning, but not sure if they will even know since it is such an obscure head.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
My only clue is one listing that states that the "1987-after" category is "For 1987-97 engines with centerbolt valve covers".
Since my heads are centerbolt, and I believe the mid-'86 heads were the first centerbolt heads made, I think I want the "1987-after" application. I'm not sure though.
Does anyone have any knowledge on this subject? I'm planning on calling some manufacturers in the morning, but not sure if they will even know since it is such an obscure head.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
03-23-2010, 08:18 AM
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The 86-87 128 heads use non self aligning rockers, in 88 they started using self aligning rockers. Make sure you get NON self aligning rockers.
If your going to spend the time to change rockers, why not buy full roller rockers ? IMHO, roller tip rockers are a waste of money.
Also, you might want to consider new springs and valve seals.
If your going to spend the time to change rockers, why not buy full roller rockers ? IMHO, roller tip rockers are a waste of money.
Also, you might want to consider new springs and valve seals.
03-23-2010, 02:40 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Agent86 gave you some excellent advice, and I STRONGLY support what he wrote.
Here's some more detail:
FULL roller rockers are much better because the trunnions (the part that slides onto the stud) - not just the roller tip - are rollerized. This feature decreases friction, eliminates binding, allows for smoother operation of the rocker arm, reduces oil temperature, decreases wear and will allow for the later addition of a performance camshaft without having to buy new rocker arms. They're a WIN-WIN choice.
FULL roller rocker arms basically, come in four versions: Self-Aligning, Non-Self Aligning, Full Body and Narrow Body. Full and Narrow body rockers address clearance issues.
NON SELF ALIGNING is the way to go. NON Self Aligning rocker arms better control the rocker arm at higher RPMS so the rocker doesn't jump off the valve stem tip which would result in valve train failure.
NON Self-Aligning rocker arms require guide plates and hardened pushrods. The NSA rocker arms, guide plates and hardened pushrods work together to provided excellent valve train stability and control only exceeded by the far more expensive shaft system.
NEW valve springs are also HIGHLY recommended for at least a few reasons:
First, your current springs probably have many thousands of miles on them and have lost some pressure;
Second they were not designed to be able to handle the additional valve lift the new, 1.6 rocker arms creates so the springs will come dangerously close to coil bind, if not actually bind. Springs that coil bind can and will result in serious valve train damage.
Third, any performance increase provided by the roller rocker arms will be minimized or become non-existent due to inadequate valve springs.
Bottom line: It's best to initiallymake the "right" decisions.
I suspect you'll have other questions, so let us know and we'll do what we can to help.
Hope this helps.
Jake
Here's some more detail:
FULL roller rockers are much better because the trunnions (the part that slides onto the stud) - not just the roller tip - are rollerized. This feature decreases friction, eliminates binding, allows for smoother operation of the rocker arm, reduces oil temperature, decreases wear and will allow for the later addition of a performance camshaft without having to buy new rocker arms. They're a WIN-WIN choice.
FULL roller rocker arms basically, come in four versions: Self-Aligning, Non-Self Aligning, Full Body and Narrow Body. Full and Narrow body rockers address clearance issues.
NON SELF ALIGNING is the way to go. NON Self Aligning rocker arms better control the rocker arm at higher RPMS so the rocker doesn't jump off the valve stem tip which would result in valve train failure.
NON Self-Aligning rocker arms require guide plates and hardened pushrods. The NSA rocker arms, guide plates and hardened pushrods work together to provided excellent valve train stability and control only exceeded by the far more expensive shaft system.
NEW valve springs are also HIGHLY recommended for at least a few reasons:
First, your current springs probably have many thousands of miles on them and have lost some pressure;
Second they were not designed to be able to handle the additional valve lift the new, 1.6 rocker arms creates so the springs will come dangerously close to coil bind, if not actually bind. Springs that coil bind can and will result in serious valve train damage.
Third, any performance increase provided by the roller rocker arms will be minimized or become non-existent due to inadequate valve springs.
Bottom line: It's best to initiallymake the "right" decisions.
I suspect you'll have other questions, so let us know and we'll do what we can to help.
Hope this helps.
Jake
03-23-2010, 11:14 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Beware of the rotator on the exhaust valves !!!
That's was the reason i ended up swapping heads,intake and cam
i didnt want to change the rotator,the rotators has to go if you are using RRs !!!
With the rotators you will have this problem with SA or NSA ..i tried both
Rotator at left :
Check THIS THREAD
That's was the reason i ended up swapping heads,intake and cam
i didnt want to change the rotator,the rotators has to go if you are using RRs !!!
With the rotators you will have this problem with SA or NSA ..i tried both
Rotator at left :
Check THIS THREAD
03-24-2010, 08:29 AM
#6
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Sammy, it shouldn't be an issue if he uses non self aligning rockers.
Which NSA rocker did you try, that had contact with rotator ??
The roller is flush or extended on a NSA rocker.
Which NSA rocker did you try, that had contact with rotator ??
The roller is flush or extended on a NSA rocker.
03-24-2010, 08:35 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
I know what you mean,i swapped the SA rockers for a set of NSA
Same Crane Cams gold series,i paid double shipping to do the interchange
only to find out those didnt work
The rear area of the body was hitting on the rotators,taking off the rotators
off the 128's are the way to go,i didnt want to dissasemble my heads so i sold them
and bought some AFR heads.
Maybe my valve tip was too short too,sadly i dont have pictures of the NSA with the
128's
Same Crane Cams gold series,i paid double shipping to do the interchange
only to find out those didnt work
The rear area of the body was hitting on the rotators,taking off the rotators
off the 128's are the way to go,i didnt want to dissasemble my heads so i sold them
and bought some AFR heads.
Maybe my valve tip was too short too,sadly i dont have pictures of the NSA with the
128's
