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It could be a worn valve train component or it could be death rattle. Sometimes it is hard to differentiate, but usually best identified in person.
One way to check it (not easy on an LT1 motor), is pull off one plug wire at a time and see if the noise get quieter on any given cylinder. If the lower end is ok, you might be able to get away with a new lifter if the cam isn't flat.
maybe your engine swallowed an alarm clock...dozens of possible causes, impossible to tell long distance...that said, light tick is common at high miles with this engine as the valve tips wear a ridge into the rocker arms and confuse the 'self adjustment' of the lifters...'listen' around the engine with a 'mechanics' stethoscope (harbor fright has em for under $10) and if the noise is in the rocker covers, replace the rocker arms with 'good' used rockers from lower mileage j-y engine or new ones...on used rockers, if you can 'catch' your finger nail on the wear mark the valve tip leaves, they'll soon 'talk' also.
NEVER pull a plug wire and let it dangle, that was ok back/day, but modern ignition systems insist on sending a spark 'somewhere'...an errant lightning bolt inside your dizz can do big $ damage...ground any plug wire who is not on it's home sparkl plug
Clock...I wish should I try to rebuld the motor or replace it. I think rebuilding may be the cheaper route. If I rebuild it, since i am a engine DA, are there good reference books for this process, thanks
Clock...I wish should I try to rebuld the motor or replace it. I think rebuilding may be the cheaper route. If I rebuild it, since i am a engine DA, are there good reference books for this process, thanks
replacement with a low mileage used camo/firebird complete LT1 is a good...crate engines are super but miles on the rest of your car make that a toss...great time to learn if you wanna go deep, have coffee at barnies and noobles and get several of the 'how-to' books from the auto section...beware, complete rebuild can cost more than a new crate if not 'shopped around'
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